95Honda

Like I said, get to know some local guys. That will probably be your best bet. Do you live off post?

I got in good with our town's Burgermeister and then had him introduce me to a few of local carpenters. A few cold beers and T-bones from the commisary later and I had access to a wood shop and built maybe 10-15 speakers during my few years at Ramstein. That was how I got things done why I was there... DIY it. Or have someone teach you. Don't know where you are at, but Ramstein had a pretty nice self help wood shop also...

A zero reading would indicate a short. An high or infinite reading would indicate a torn lead or cooked coil... (assuming the coil didn't cook into one blob of copper shorted on the former)

Model the Dcons vs the Kickers in your current enclosure and you will get an idea of output and extension difference. You already know how your cabin gain is behaving, so a comparison of the two response curves will be meaningful to you.

Something sounds like it is broken somewhere...

What does 3Kw have to do with an SP4?

If the BX/PX doesn't have any (they do at Ramstein) just have someone ship you an AGM via APO. Just don't put that it is a battery on the customs form. Put somthing else like weights. If it is under 75 lbs, they won't check...

Honestly, if you buy anything other than welding cable, you are paying extra for looks and possibly lesser quality...

You can easily blow that (and any car audio sub made) sub with a 2 kw amplifier if you try hard enough. Nobody can tell you what is safe. Additionally, there are no gain settings you can accomplish that will keep you safe under all conditions. You need to use your head, and your other senses, to tell when the driver is getting too much power...

troll? Your joking, right?

Sure, but then again, when use T-nuts or hurricane nuts if you can't even cut a proper circle? If you can't cut a circle then you probably aren't going to install the fasteners right and you'll end up with all the problems everyone is always talking about with stripping, cross threading and them backing out... BTW, just look at the picture of a Hurricane nut on Parts Express. You drill a hole and knock it in with a hammer or cinch it down with a fastener and a washer prior to driver install. I doubt a video will show you anything usefull...

If you really want to be sure it is the fuse holder, measure the drop across the holder. Put one test lead on the input of the holder and one on the output. Put it on DC volts. With your system playing, what is the highest reading you get? Until you do this, it is speculation about the holder...

Looks really good!

If you cut the driver hole perfectly, the Hurricane nuts don't hang over on both cast and stamped baskets. Again, this requires a perfect driver cutout with less than 1/16" oversize...

Parts Express. I mostly use 1/4-20 when possible...

I modeled with constant voltage drive, that was the mistake if anyone else besides us is paying attention...

I'll give you some help. A 9V is rated (normally) at about 500 ma/hour. They will do almost an amp for a few seconds. All else being equal, you'll get almost 10 watts out of one for a few seconds into a 4 ohm (or less) driver...

I retract my statement, I was factoring in the drop of impedance for the pair.

Look at the amp hour (ma hour rating of a 9V). Figure out your power using E^2/R. See if it is over the amp hour rating of the battery. You'll answer your own question.

Nope. If followed the instructions, used a drill press set exactly right with the right bit. I also have used these on the last 100 or so drivers. I have never had one come loose or spin, even with the "torque of god" applied...

I have tested properly installed Hurricane nuts in 3/4" MDF. I was able to strip the threads with an impact gun before the nut started spinning. It doesn't get much stronger than that...

There is no correlation between power rating and the amount of excursion vs power, ever. This is a flawed comparison. Additionally, if you take two drivers with identical motors that have 1/2 the Sd of a single driver with the same motor, the pair are more efficient, always. They behave more linear and have less power compression. Additionally, if you have more motor force, all else being equal, to a given Sd, this in itself is inherent to more potential efficiency.

No. You need to understand the rest of ohms law. When you factor in impedance (E^2/R) you realize that 9V battery isn't putting out as little as you think.

Honestly, very little (if any) information in this thread has been right about amplifier topology and filtering, especially all of the class A/B discussion. Too much power was applied to the driver. Anything else is speculation...