95Honda

My dad has had a DHC2200.1 in his truck for almost 10 years now, solid gear!

Don't compare vent area to box volume. There isn't a relation or "rule of thumb"

There is no relation between the vent cross-sectional area and enclosure volume.

Soldering would be good. Just be careful not to overheat if the base material is plastic. You know, Parts Express has buyout Bosch type relays for about a $1 or 2 quite often, keep an eye out foe those. Just parallel as many as needed. You are also cutting down on your terminal resistance that way...

I'm comparing OFC 5000+ strand count to CCA 5000+ strand count. Why? 1/0 Excelene is $2 a foot. There is your benchmark for price/performance. If you insist on 5000 strand OFC "Car Audio" wire you are just buying in to hype and paying for looks...

CCA cost 1/3 of Welding Cable? I have never seen it that cheap... 1/0 Welding is pretty much $2 a foot...

If they are truly rated for that current, and you are running them in parallel, then you should be fine. Insertion loss will be minimal. As long as you don't switch them under a load the contacts will last forever for your application... The terminals will probably be OK, just make sure you make a real tight connection so no heat builds up where this is little contact area....

Power 15's with chrome motors? Older, 1st gen. Stamped baskets and a big ass motor painted black. High efficiency, almost like a big PA woofer with a foam surround...

lol... No, there are a few old drivers I am going to hang on to... There are also a pair of Punch Power 15s (1992ish) sitting in cardboard boxes at my folks house somewhere from when I was in high school... Still have plans for those some day...

Lol, they aren't that old. I still have some Punch 12s from 1994... One new in the box...

Makes no difference what kind of power it is. If you apply more than the RMS, it may damage the driver...

Like Impious said this has nothing to do with your electrical. This is the nature of an amplifier...

If your amp starts running out of gas (rail limits) you are going to go over the thermal threshold of your woofers. The gain setting is arbitrary, just don't get to that point with your amp... If you wired for a lower impednace, all else being equal, your amplifier will now try and produce more power with the same given input. So it will run out of gas sooner...

You can't fry any sub with any amount of power. Please be a little more objective when making blanket statements like that. If the sub is rated at a thermal limit of 3000 watts, a 1500 watt amplifier could potentially damage it... A 3000 watt amplifier could very easily damage it, in any box, without audible distortion.

Lol, OK. Just remember that you can thermally fry those subs with much less than that much amplifier in ANY enclosure...

Nobody has any idea of what his load will be until you model his enclosure. I may be nominally over 1 ohm with those drivers, all wired in parallel... So basically, nobody can tell you anything objective until you figure this ^^ out... And no, this isn't impedance rise, just want to nip that one in the bud

That is a lot of power, be careful or you will smoke them in no time... FI's site has plenty of box ideas...

I still don't get how some don't understand there is no safe setting under all circumstances when you have enough power, just as M5 said. It is a waste of time to set your gain to a "safe" threshold. You can always break that threshold unless you have some type of active compression at the end of the signal chain... The DD-1 is not that type of compression, nor is anything else you commonly see...

Jesus Fucking Christ. English. Type it.

The LC2i has a eq circuit to overcome the factory low end compression. An aftermarket HU will probably give you better performance, but you may need to mess with a lot more things...

Just remember, there is no correlation between box volume and port area, another myth...

You hit the nail on the head. Especially with the skin effect comments of copper cladding on the CCA, because there is no skin effect with DC. This is just one of the myths that perpetuates with this stuff...

No, don't quit talking, ever. Just don't help perpetuate this myth. Car audio is full of this crap. This site is supposed to help people. When certain things are said (in error) all they do is keep the dumb people dumber. I have no doubt you understand this thread, just be careful with what you say as you will confuse the crap out of others.

Again, it doesn't matter what the physical size is, this is the whole point. You guys are missing this. And it may actually be smaller, less cross-sectional area, it just has a larger O.D. due to construction... When you say "some of the thickest wire you can get" all you do is perpetuate this myth...

I have their 1 gauge ofc cable and it is some if the thickest wire you can getAgain, this is what you guys are completely missing in this thread. The "thickness" of stranded power wire has nothing to do with the overall AWG. The "thickness" is determined primarily from physical construction and strand count. And when you are talking DC current, these do NOT affect performance... At all... Saying one wire is thicker than another makes about as much sense as comparing the jacket color...