95Honda

Nothing wrong with aluminum at all...

There is no relation between box volume and port area. At all. There could be a few reasons for your lack of 55-65Hz range. But first off, have you swept with test tones to be sure you actually have a dip in output in that range or are you taking a guess? One of the most common reasons for this response is an exxagerated low end. This normally happens when an alignment thta is relatively flat (like yours) anechoically is placed in a car with a ton of cabin gain down low. It is like you have just added 10db+ on your last few octaves, and then you don't get so much boost right above that. It pretty much makes it sound like you have a big hole in your response, and in reality you do. The easiest solution for this is picking an alignment that isn't flat, but instead is rolled off more on th elow end with a higher ripple in response up higher, no doubt that is how your setput with the Kickers was working. This is why many people find they like the sound off a seale dbox because it is "punchy" hits th ehigher notes better. But in reality, they just have an alignment that peaks in mor eof the range they want, it has little to do with the box actually being sealed. By the way, you can make a ported box peak wherever you want by manipulating tuning and box volume (notice port area isn't mentioned, because it doesn't play into anything here) but you always have to give something to get something. So if you make a box that has a peak up high, you will loose low end and possibly have some other undesirable after effects... The other common problem (well not so common) is actuall cancellation due to the sound waves arriving at the listener at slightly different times and cancelling each other out. The only way to fix this is to move the enclosure, or change orientation. Sometimes this problem is very tough to overcome with drastic system changes. This i sone of the biggest reasons some cars are so much louder than others (inside) with identical equipment... Hope this helps...

First impressions... Very loud.

Ended up being a 320 amp alt. System in and being tweaked. Amp already popped a 300 amp fuse when really let loose. A few more tweaks coming. Will post pics soon.

No it isn't. You still haven't said what type of enclosure you want to try. And no, 4th order isn't a type of enclosure.

The primary purpose of the line driver is to keep you line voltage up by sourcing more current. Not needed most of the time...

BTW, no matter what you do, it will be impossible to thermally blow (with your amp) that SA 10 unless the RMS rating is inflated. So don't worry about that part... You almost get a green light to do whatever you want with bass boost, eq, volume, etc with this combo, above enclosure resonance. It usually isn't like this, lol...

50 watts is enough to get that sub loud in the right box.

It is only an Octogon for looks... Another gimmick...

Googled Octoport. It now goes into the CCA wire, car audio hybrid "T-line" and RMS equates to output folder in my BS cabinet...

No boost. Only reduces attenuation from flat.

All the parameters play a role. Xmax plays a role, as does sensitivity, as does overall Q. These all affect the overall ouput potential of a driver and must all be taken into consideration. Now, if you are willing to be objective and narrow your choices based on something like the last octave before resonance, than the Xmax parameter may very well outweigh the others. But you need to look at it objectively like this and not make the blanket assumption that this is true over the entire bandwidth of the system, because this simply isn't the case... Eminence used to supply sensitivity curves over the driver's bandwidth instead of one asolute number. This made comparison much easier... It is too complicated for many people that just want one number, but again, it is objectivity like this that really helps you make an informed decision...

28mm is alot. Seriously.

Octo = 8 ports?

I think one thing that people forget in car audio is that the lower the impedance, the worse everything performs.

2 identical drivers in seperate enclosures with different tuning may run into phase issues (especially around tuning) and actually reduce your desired output... You could model and compare phase to see...

Yes a dual 1 ohm, or a dual 4 ohm...

That doesn't make much sense considering the BLs are roughly 3db more efficient that the SSDs and will be louder with your 1200 watts... or 120 watts... or 12 watts...

Looks good

What does the other side of the baffle look like?

How do they sound?

Not to discourage your design, but when you place two vertical arrays right next to each (two vertical rows) your horizontal dispersion will get severely narrow. This will translate in to a sweet spot that is so narrow only one person will hear a stereo image in the room. If you can, separate the vertical array. Make it 2x as tall, or just get rid of one side. It will sound much, much better. Also, if Parts Express or Zaph Audio has a response curve for thosedrivers check for peaks on the top end that might need a notch filter. Simple to make and a huge improvement if needed. Common problem with a lot of the cheaper full ranges. Keep it up!

The numbers on your display are mainingless, uncalibrated and have no correlation to the output voltage of your headunit. Any time you change source material, mode, EQ or anything else, the output voltage will change even with the same displayed output level. To put things into perspective, those units of measure have the same amount of meaning as a speedometer that is labeled with pictures of fruit and animals instead of MPH...

With the amp turned on and NOTHING connected ANYWHERE on the signal input (I mean the RCA jacks are just sitting there with nothing connected) is there noise?