95Honda
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Everything posted by 95Honda
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The point I am trying to make is you don't need all that power to sound good, period. The whole headroom requirement gets blown way out of proportion...
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I have never heard them, they look nice though. Just realize you are paying a huge chunk for aesthetics with those...
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The scientific answer is in order to use all that "headroom" that is supposedly necessary you would need to listen to your system at full tilt in order for it to sound good... That is ridiculous... Case in point, Sterophile's "Best sound at CES 2014" entries. These are the best sounding systems in the world, period. There is no mobile audio systems that can even approach what you hear with these. One thing to notice is, about half these systems are 100 watts or less... Some as little as 10 watts... Yes there are high power amps too, but not the majority... You don't have to have a ton of power for fidelity. You only have to have a ton of power to play loud. By the way, as someone who worked for a manufacturer that built high end equipment and went to CES many years, nobody plays these systems at levels that tap the amps out... When I worked for Audioprism in the mid 90's we had a Stereophile top 10 best sound at CES entry 2 years running, with 30 watts per channel...
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do i understand how DC and AC current works?
95Honda replied to ncc74656's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
From what I skimmed you got it for the most part. #1 Skin effect has minimal effect in the audio range #2 CCA doesn't do anything for skin effect at high frequency (if it were used there) because the wire isn't Litz construction... CCA is a much poorer performer than copper of equivalent AWG under all circumstances. #3 The ground is part of the overall circuit. It has the same current flowing as the positive lead, it's length isn't limited as long as you still have the overall desired DC resistance. -
Meh. Dynamics are important, but that not important. The whole you need "XXXXX watts to hear a pin drop to an orchestra blah blah" is a pile of shit and a marketing gimmick... There is a reason the best sounding amplifiers in the world are usually less than 100 WPC, because they sound good, not because they have a ton of power. Same goes for high end speakers... If at any time you even approach a drivers limit, you are no longer in the SQ realm, period... Remember, car audio is 90% BS and 10% science, lol...
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It will work fine. You don't even have to match the amps, it makes no difference really. They could even be playing different signals (you will loose output obviously) and it won't hurt a thing... Just set them as close as you can and don't worry about it. The only reason to match them is so they both run out of gas at the same time, that is really it...
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The sound quality will be better with 400 watts vs. 1000 watts.
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No
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Impious... Always there to lay it out so it makes sense...
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This isn't anything new. The same principles apply to power/isolation transformers. The main reason all the RF/EMI garbage (like the unfiltered Class D components) doesn't make it through a power/isolation transformer (like the woofer's voice coil) is due to the inductive component presenting high impedance to the unwanted signals. The high impedance doesn't let the current flow and therefor the signal make it through the transformer (voice coil). It also doesn't matter if it is a sine wave or some other type of signal, even pulses or a square wave, it has to do with how the inductance simply won't let the current flow...
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budget batteries
95Honda replied to garychurch84's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
I wouldn't worry too much about battery or too in the cab. There are millions of air-tight older Volkswagen beetles running around with batteries inside cab, none have every blown up... -
I have no doubt the unfiltered HF garbage coming out of a class D amp causes issues, mostly distortion... But in a series circuit that has an inductor (voice coil) with any appreciable amount of inductance anywhere in the circuit, there won't be significant current flow (in the HF range) and therefore heat. Even if the HF is lower, even in the audio spectrum, it will have an insignificant amount of power compared to the intended output of the amplifier...
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It is 100% elaborated in my 1st post. You have to look into AC circuit theory to go much further. In a nutshell, the voice coil acts as a resistor to current at higher frequencies, at the switching frequencies of class D amplifiers it is so much resistance that virtually no current actually flows... The only way you could burn up the leads from the switching frequencies would be if there was no voice coil in the circuit... This isn't the case with a subwoofer... It has a voice coil...
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Cool. I just hope everyone now understands how any un-filtered HF output of a class D amp has no effect on leads as long as they are in a circuit that includes a subwoofer voice coil. It's just the facts...
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Also, don't take my driver recommendation as gospel, it was simply to show you there are other options out there...
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I 100% believe you. I don't think you may have done anything wrong. Like I said, you have an amp that can produce a 3Kw sine wave, and other waveforms up to possibly 6Kw... What normally happens is the lead fails in one spot and heat begins to build, it just gets worst from there... It can be a failure from the way the leads were sewn in/installed to a bad lead material, to over excursion of the sub to simply too much power. It just happens. All I am trying to get you to do is look objectively at your situation, and cut through the BS... Everything can be explained through simple circuit analysis, it isn't Voodoo, although some people would have you believe it...
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They just don't go low enough for a 2-way with anything bigger than a 4"-5"... They are super directional and just plain sound bad 99% of the time. If you must use horn loading I would go with something like Morel CAT 378, high efficiency, high power handling and still goes low... They also sound good...
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It has nothing to do with clipping. It has nothing to do with filtering either, the inductance of the voice coil prevents the higher frequencies from ever causing enough current flow to actually heat the leads. Don't believe me? Calculate the current flow through a 3-4 mh inductor (the voice coil) at the switching frequency of the amp at the maximum rail voltage... It is no more than a few watts, that doesn't heat up crap... (an amp that switches at 250K will see a load of 4.7Kohms into a 3mh voice coil at that frequency, this will equal 2 watts if the amplifier put that out at 100 VAC..., harmonics will be even lower) Hopefully this put the whole "microwave the leads" myth to rest... It has to do with the lead in your case having a failure in one place and the current is forced to flow through less effective cross-sectional area of conductor, increasing heat. As heat increases voltage drop and heat increases. It just keeps getting worse. You have a 3Kw amp, that is what burned up the leads...
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Are they horn-loaded super-tweeters? If they are, sell them. They have absolutely no place in a car.
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DSS Tridents and Twisted Sounds S-10. Road to 166dBs
95Honda replied to stevemead08's topic in Build Logs
Cool thing about it is, if your connections (being in the back of your truck) get exposed to anything like humidity, heat, cold, smoke, etc the Noalox will keep them 100%... In addition to keeping any contact resistance from developing... We use it all the time on outdoor connections... Have pulled some apart that are 10 years old and the metal is nice and clean in the connection area... -
DSS Tridents and Twisted Sounds S-10. Road to 166dBs
95Honda replied to stevemead08's topic in Build Logs
Home Depot and Lowes has it... -
DSS Tridents and Twisted Sounds S-10. Road to 166dBs
95Honda replied to stevemead08's topic in Build Logs
Good call. Since you are going from Aluminum bar to copper connectors (I assume) make sure and dap a little Noalox between the metals... -
They can probably give you some type of numbers, but SPL will only be relevant in your vehicle and they cannot accurately measure power... The moral of this whole story is, the RMS rating has nothing to do with pretty much anything. Just about every single person on this site (or any car audio site) who has blown a driver cannot tell you for sure how much power they were using, period. It is so subjective the information you get. Bottom line is, use your brain, don't overdrive the woofer and remember that the RMS rating has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with power requirements or output levels...
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I would just hate to see you waste money where you could spend it other places to get much better performance gains...
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It is based (mostly) on the enclosure, or the thermal limits of the driver, whatever comes first. It can be determined by modeling and/or ACCURATE and OBJECTIVE measurements with CALIBRATED ACCURATE test equipment...