dem beats

myfirst, I would really save your pennies and get an IXL or the maelstrom-x. The IXL will be more effecient to drive. As for taking it to it's limits, if you really are trying to push it hard, or throwing it some insanely low tones and have it cranked you might be able to. It could happen with 650 but not easy and you would most likely notice something wrong long before mechanical failure.

I always put it on the ceramic and enough so that it maintains a waterproof seal with the outer boot. Yeah I have heard that.... I read one article where someone said they "loaded it up". I thought since the 5.4's fords in my year have some many natural moisture problems, and I do know off road guys will just coat the heck out of them, I took that for shoving a few gobs on there. Wrong. It's running better for sure right now, but I may have just givin myself a poor connection. We shall see as time goes on. It was still misfirign a bit this morning, but definately not half as bad. I may have a broken COP though... it is only 2 months old but maybe moisture caused some kind of internal short... I swear to god I'm just gonna buy a crate engine and squeeze it in. Anyone wanna buy my 5.4 2v mod engine??? it will go to a great fund.

Your battery is inside the sub box right?

I hope you don't take my questions as rude. I just want to make sure I'm answering the right questions.

I would definately not get the reckhorn then untill you have built your sub and have it in the room. It may not be needed. It it was 30 bucks, sure, nice to have on hand. In fact I wouldn't spend a half a cent on processing untill you have done some more in room research. Not that I'm a pro or know everything, but I haven't spent anything on processing yet. Just my receiver. Proper box building, and orientation in the room will matter 1000000% more than any processing. Install is 80% of the output. Remember that. There is no way to know what you need. The money could be spent for better driver or amp and you would get better results IMHO. Use it for extra wood so you can make several boxes and see what you like better. You could also use it to buy measuring equipment. That would get you miles farther than the processor. If the tempest isn't even out yet why would you even be interest if I may ask? New products will continue to come out. A bit or perspective, I would rather have 2 12" woofers of the Shiva motors, than 1 15" of that same motor. So unless the 15" was only a few dollars more than the shiva, I wouldn't pick it up. If it's a completely different driver with about ~1000watt rms and an Fs of 18 or so, and less than 250 bucks I would maybe think about it. But then you're talking IXL 18" money.

no clue why I thought it had to be sprayed. Anyway, this is how I have seen concrete sprayed. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gunite

so... dielectric grease should just have a thin coat on the inside of the boot and not just gobs of it shot into the boot.....

did you take a couple weeks off work Sean? I think I speak for everyone when I say we're happy and excited for you. Really cool time for you now. =)

How much can you get the reckhorn for? I think if I wanted processing I would buy something a little more stout. I would hold off on the processing purchase untill you get the sub in the room and have listened to it quite a bit and placed it where you really like the sound. Maybe geta mic and to some charts/graphs too if you want. I would really really hate for you to buy it and either not need it, or worse, need much much much more processing. As a side note, some people really feel that when the process their sub it looses a lot of the visceral grunt it had before they put it on a processor. What your ear hears and body feals is a bit more important for movie watching than just having a flat response line.

where are you seeing the tempest? I didn't see them on the DIY site. What is the cost? If it's the 15" 600watt sub I think it's a great choice. It will have a little lower Fs, and maybe, just maybe, more spl. It's it's really close to the 200 dollar mark, I would go for it. If it's not but you still think the shiva will not quench your bass thirst I would save all your money and go for a maelstrom, or perhaps an IXL. Both great choices. You won't really be thinking about any upgrades for a loooong time then. I am biased to the maelstrom. The IXL is a great choice too though. It May even have the edge on the Maelstom-x as it's SLIGHTLY more sensitive, but the Maelstrom can handle 50% more power. I went with 2 Maelstroms to help with room response, if I do end up with a problem, and I desire being as flat and load as I can down to the sub 10Hz if I can. I really encourage you to buy as big and powerfull of a sub as you can fit into the room and that your budget will allow. This will put off the upgrade bug for as long as possible and thus you will ultimately spend less.

I think the second pic is pretty awesome. Looks like a tiny little Cesar in deep thought about the fate of the republic.

Tiny Sean TOP.

If all in ideal enclosures, it would play louder than a BL or Q with the same power. If you were expecting a problem with doing that, then you need to do so more research. It will NEVER hurt a sub to give it less power unless the operator compensates like an idiot with the stupid knob, err gain knob. people don't get that concept.

Epic win!

:bigclap: That second pic is amazing. Congrats!

when I was younger before in between "real jobs" I was a nanny. =) Helped my best friends aunt out really, I wasn't paid anything, but they needed the help for a while. Worked for the park board with the school dept too. Great job. almost 16 bucks an hour when I was 15.

how is everything!!!???? We won't know for several days. If you have children, you understand. I understand anyway. I'm just super happy for him. Just my nature. I like kids, so I'm living vicariously.

how is everything!!!????

Tirefryr, I thought fiber crete had to be sprayed(not that I have any damn clue why that would be) to work. You used the sheet steel with holes punched in it? I'm really impressed either way.

SLeep timE!

This is a great example in bold there. I tried to make a similar type box and I didn't even get it to hold up against it's own weight. Smart idea with the ball! Now if you would have put concrete inside an MDF the SAME thing would happen. This is because it's not a composite material. It's just one material that looks like it's connected to another material. The mechanical hold of concrete and the resin resin is AMAZING. Thermoset resin/epoxy used for FG is really amazing but it's nothing without the strength of Glass. The actual bonding, not so much. This is why resin isn't use to glue box joints together. If it could hold better it would be used, but wood glue makes for a better, for lack of a better word, glue. Now make that same box and use some rebar. It would have broken the slab it landed on. That is an example of a composite material. Fiber reinforced concrete might have gotten it done too. Wiki FCR page ^---just some cool info. FG isn't just used in speaker boxes and kayaks People ALWAYS forget. Fiber glass really is glass. Silicon basically, with some other stuff in there. That is really where the strength comes from. If you like you can think of the resin as a filler, only to take up space and save weight, that also has the side benefit of giving both tensile and compression strength.

Alan, what kind of testing would you like to see? You refuse to accept the experience of the others here on this forum trying to help the OP out, yet you only have your experience to fall back on. That kind of circular logic won't fly. It's beating a dead horse and expecting it to run. Is there a specific empirical test that will work for you? Someone might be willing to work something out, but realistically even with amazingly sensitive and accurate measuring tools it probably won't give you an answer that will satisfy. No matter what the argument could be made "well my box wasn't like that one" or "I used a different kind of MDF" etc. It can be proofed though. Here is a big start. Great Explanation of how and why composite materials work. Resin and boxes are SO popular because some people saw some other successful people use it. They don't know why it was used though or what it was doing in that application. Now if you add FG to that resin, we can start talking. However even with woven FG and resin, the flat planes of the interior do not lend itself to a strong FG type composite structure. Basically unless FG is formed in some kind of curve, it's really a poor material. Two Layers of MDF will be SO much better. Or just some simple window bracing(I would choose this approach for the most stability and rigidity).

ever wear rainbows? Don't know what they are, so probably not. they're the standard down here in southern cali. i wear mine 300+ days a year. i'll get a few pics up of what a broken in sandal looks like when it's light out. Prop 8 flippie floppies?

No kidding, you have a family of 'coons that live in the back yard. one climbed down a tree in my yard. freaked the hell out of my cats.

Up until last month when I pulled the guts out to upgrade, my father and I had been running this on a P3 800mhz PC since I got it sometime from 2000-2001. I know my father has an old PII 450Mhz up and running this in his office at work as well. You'd be surprised at the minimal resources necessary (for some projects) to assist in Distributed Computing. Can this use multiple cores? I use Prime to test my machine to get all cores smoking. This might be something else to use, if it can stress all of them