khinds94

But why cant he just wire .5 on just 1 amp?

Im curious, Do you have an area where your back seats are to let the air from your trunk into the cabin, or is it sealed off?

Holy shit man nice video. Those ethos look like a run for their money.

Some guy also posted in the vs thread compared the team AA's to the team Fi's. They look bulky.

Nice truck man

Also, If you have the option, try taking the ssd out the box and free air it on the same frequency that it made the noise on. See if you can see anything unusual.

You shouldn't really be playing frequencies around 100 hz with your sub bass. Your mid bass should take care of it. Do you have a LPF set on your amp?

Damn, I really like that motor. Really good to know that people like you are still focusing on the shipping and packaging so well. It serves a good purpose when you buy a sub that nice.

Any of those options work. Personally I would get whichever is the cheapest out of the level 3 DC's and the Gcons. And I wouldn't throw out the idea of not having 1 15. Just because it doesn't move as much air doesn't mean you wont like the output and sound more than 2 cheaper drivers.

I have one tuned to 32 hz it plays down to like 25 with authority but after that it starts to slope off. Its a great daily sub too, loud as shit compared to my AQ subs I used to have in.

Nice to meet you, hope you enjoy browsing the forums

Am I way off? i don't understand where you got that idea from. how did you go about determining the other enclosure specs? I figured that you use the recommended enclosure size from what the manufacturer gives, and then you tune the box with the fs depending on whether it is higher or lower. NO. One single specification tells you NOTHING about a driver. There is a reason that Thiele & Small have a list of parameters. They ALL need to be accounted for to design a reasonable box. As for following the manufacturers recommendations that is generally the best idea if you don't intrinsically understand ALL of the parameters. Just don't go changing the tuning though either-follow the recommendations completely.Oh ok thanks for the info

Am I way off? i don't understand where you got that idea from. how did you go about determining the other enclosure specs? I figured that you use the recommended enclosure size from what the manufacturer gives, and then you tune the box with the fs depending on whether it is higher or lower.

Am I way off?

Personally, The only number that helps me when designing a box is the fs. If the fs is high like 40-45 hz, usually its better to tune higher.

Hey man I really like the build, got a question for you though; how do you like your Nendo 2k's? have they given you any problems?

Yeah Cloud is right, If I were you I would invest in a quality amp that is affordable such as Sounqubed or even a Hifonics amp would be better.

I would stick with the lower side of it and do 3 cubes before displacement, that way your left with around 2.7 net. However considering that your not over driving the sub with too much power, depending on your goals. IF your going for a daily beater with no regards to spl, I would do 3.5 cubes because It will give you more output in the lower range. (IF thats what your going for)

Yea everything looks good but the only thing I would do different is tune it to like ~~18hz cause I heard they hit da lowz good na im fuckin around 3 cubes before disp looks good.

Damn props on the box, looks very well built. Can't wait to see this thing in action.

Thats what the Zv4 is for lol

+1 to that, I wanna see 25 hz full tilt

Personally, I would do the 2 15's setup. You figure the price of the x's compared to the nsv4 and evils. you could probably get 2 x's for the price of a nsv4. you get more cone area and you both setups should have the same amount of power. maybe like 4k

God I want a 3500 for mine.

Just bought a box from them. You can design the box to your liking at a pretty good price. Mine turned out nice.