mjmarovi

oh, and do you plan on mounting mids/tweets on or off axis?

Hybrid Audio Technologies FTW!! I absolutely love my hybrids, did a lot of research, their response curves are unreal. L1v2 tweets, you can run as low as 2800 hz all day long. IMO the some of the cleanest drivers out there. others that are also high-end include the scanspeak and seas that you mentioned, and above them I would be DLS iridium and Eton. for the amps, if you are already going with a zapco 1000.4 than just go with the zapco 2 channel, they make outstanding amplifiers. I mean the genesis dual mono IMO is probably the highest quality amp you listed but the zapco are right up there. currently I am using hybrid legatia series 4" mids, their high-pass x-over point depends on how much power you are trying to push to them, but they can handle quite a bit even down to 100-120 hz. I have them naturally rolling off on the high end. morel is also another great company, as is dynaudio. I mean really if you stick to the higher-end lines from dynaudio, eton, scanspeak, seas, morel, rainbow, dls, you can't go wrong. I personally buy American when I can, and IMO right now American has proven themselves so i stick to hybrid.

I'll have to look into those...the Ohio is like $450 but I know it's a great alt

tuned in, can't wait to see the magnet structure to surround the coil.

For what you get and the price, the 9887 is the absolutely the best deck IMO. You jump up another 2-300 dollars to get something that is really just comparable. Like I believe I said earlier, or maybe in another thread, there are better decks but you definitely pay for it. You can really spend less and get same results you are looking for. the 9886 is a very similar deck just without all the crossover features. and eclipse and clarion also make some great decks for ~200

personally that's what I would choose, love the look, just didn't know how easy it was for you to paint that stuff, I would agree, as that charge would probably have to be kind of obnoxious for the extra trips lol

with tuning at 38 hz, I'm assuming he would try to crank some real low tunes and it would cause unloading....but hey that's just a wild guess

that's what I thought, thanks wrench. crazykenkid- first alternator was stock OEM and it was pushing battery bank of system of 4 thousand watts, I didn't expect it to last. This alternator was a small upgrade, and pretty sure it was used or refurb or something, I plan on purchasing an Ohio Generator by Christmas, but was hoping this one would get me by till then.

Alright, so sold off everything from old substage, well actually sold half of it, other half got stolen. Anyway will be running 2 1500d's on 3 SA-12's, and backing them on the electrical side will be a kinetik hc2000, hc1400, and optima blue top under the hood. right now alty is a small upgraded 120a. I am saving up for a real nice 200 a 240 peak custom valeo from ohio generator. Now the real question is this. I want to charge batteries to 15volts. right now with the optima, and two kinetiks that is a total of 4500 battery amps and 162 ah from kinetiks and I believe 55 ah on the optima blue top so 217ah total. I do plan on adding another hc2000 and hc1400 on other side of trunk in the spring when I double up on amps and add the alty. I have looked at the kinetik charger, but I'm thinking there is probably something out there for less that will still do the job I want it to do. also wondering what advantage/difference in power supply from charger and if you need both. I feel my knowledge of car audio is on a high level, so no need to talk to me like a kid, looking for expert advice on this, as this is the one area I feel I am weak in. think that covers it thanks in advance for comments/advice!

maybe a small extra charge for w/e color you want with *cough* matching dustcap Sundown logo *cough* would also be sick on these. and the rest of the woofer the classic sundown black. just throwing that out there

generally don't see any worries with glass till you get over 155 db's, and then it's very vehicle dependent. with a single BTL, no worries, with 4 18's on a wall and 4-5k on each, then yeh would probably expect a little more window flex...

yes, so port opening would be for example 10" x just under 5" or however you use choose to build the port. the reason you generally only see huge ports, is on more pure SPL systems where tuning is much higher, so they don't have to build the port very long. when you have to make a port longer, and make it turn in the box and what not things can get a little goofy. so sometimes it is easier just to go with 12-13 sq. in. of port and really that still works out quite nice.

sent you a PM, can probably just help you from here via PM.

lol you would have shit yourself with my old setup than...and it wasn't anything too special... "active setup" means using xover's before amps receive signal. in an active setup amplifiers are connected directly to the speakers. so the amp is told, or if it has a built-in xover then is used to cancel out what frequency you want said speaker to receive, and the amplifiers powers that speaker. in a passive setup (most common) the amplifier is wired or powers a "passive crossover" which is then connected to the speakers. coaxial speakers have bass-blockers built in which helps them handle power directly from an amplifier without the need of a any crossover. that is also why they are the lowest quality sounding speakers. I could go on for days about croosovers and difference in passive/active benefits and what not as that's my bread and butter but unless you really want to know I'll save it. since you did have to ask, I would say stick to a more basic deck. something with at least a 7-band eq with 4 volt pre-outs will suit your needs just fine. stay away from crap brands like dual, and really stay away from any entry-level model from any company. for 200 bucks there are plenty of options out there for great quality decks.

alright, open your ears and I am more than happy to help. I also like the fact you took the time to PM me, that shows me you are truly looking for help and not LOL ok so lets see if we can get a fresh start. I understand your goals, now lets truly see what you have to work with. take measurements of space you have available in your trunk, remember you will have to fit this box into the trunk so be sure it is not larger than the opening. we'll go from there....

to be most helpful here lets make a list of what you have available... 1) probably about 4-5 cuft airspace after port and displacement in a trunk....that leaves you with the option of 2 12's or a single 15 as I believe M5 STATED above. 2) POS 1400 watt amp, *cough* I mean ~700 real power lol. anyway that's fine no worries just use for now and upgrade in future. ok that was a short list now here's what you need... Join the club, you're on a budget, that's straight so lets see what we're working with. You said profit 200? well how much TOTAL will you have/are willing to spend on this? I'm gonna go out on a limb and say 500 dollars. If so then you are looking at a single BTL or two BL's. so looks like coincidentally the same as another thread, you are looking at a single 15" BTL, or two 12" BL's. You you will want to be looking at 2000 up to 3000 watts total that either sub setup could handle, so thinking in future have space for two middle sized or one larger battery. Be thinking about an alternator upgrade as well when making the amplifier upgrade. It seems you have no problem with ability to fabricate a box so I have confidence you can do that alright. fi recommends between 12-16 sq. in. of port area per cubic foot of box volume, for best results you probably want to try to get into the larger side of the recommendation, although that can be difficult someitmes since a larger port must be longer to achieve same tune. tuning, since you are looking to be more musical, probably in the 32-33 hz range.

no offense, but I'm sure M5 and I both have knowledge far more vast than your friend, and the Q's being louder than BTL's comment makes the test a one question failure for your friend. this forum is filled with people that have been doing car audio for most of their lives, people that own and design speakers for a living, and people that work with those people and do everything they can to improve car audio. so basically if you want to go listen to your friend, then go do that, don't come onto a forum like this and ask for help then go off and listen to your friend who heard about Fi through the grapvine and thinks he is the shit for hitting 151. give me a break! btw I have seen a BL 10" do a 152 out of a trunk, I have seen a single Fi Q do 147 on music on a thousand watt amp, and the list goes on and on.....

they can all get loud, I have ran Q's, BL's, and heard plenty of every sub in the line, I have even installed and IB3 in two different vehicles and now have it in home theater, so I feel I have plenty of experience with Fi. the BTL is def. the LEAST musical of everything in the lineup. it is meant to be an SPL woofer with options that allow it to be used as a daily driver. everyone speaks of musicality as if they really think a 150 db daily ground pounder is an SQ build...not hardly. As long as you have a decent install, it wont sound like crap, and I understand you want it loud. so don't worry about what is going to sound "better" on same amount of power, same size woofer, the BTL is the loudest, second is the BL, and third is the Q. and just opposite, the Q is most musical, second is the BL, and then the BTL. (this is keeping SSD's and IB3's out of the equation as neither should a woofer option for you and this amount of power) as I stated before, the increase in cone area of the 2 12's would overcome the sensitivity of the single 15", so two 12" BL's would really be the best option for you. They will be the loudest you can get besides going with two 12" BTL's in that amount of airspace, and will still remain quite "musical". this is what is recommended by how each lineup is designed...just remember the final and most important influence on performance is the install job. I have seen systems running Q's hit over 160 db's, and have also seen BTL's ran as daily musical subs, but it is very install dependent, and since you already know what space you ave to work with, again, BL's with your range of budget are the best choice. as for how to place subs/port. well facing subs and port into the cabin and sealing off the enclosure to the trunk is generally the loudest. This does require a little more work and fabrication, and if you are an amateur one of the harder installs to do successfully. As long as there is some air passages around the box, sub back and port back works extremely well and is def. the best option for building a box that you can take in and out of the trunk.

for the most part, magnets will be very large on higher-end speakers that can handle more power, but if the rest of the woofer or speaker is crap, it doesn't really matter. many inexpensive posers out there have huge magnets but sometiems like 1 or 2" voice coil then claim to be a 3000 watt sub, lol no way. lots of things factor, but thing to remember is yes, generally speaking you need a large magnet to handle large amounts of power, but just because there is a large magnet doesn't mean it can handle a large amount of power.

alright thanks guys

if you round the if you round the corners on the inside it will add SPL, probably not audible though...a 1 db gain at most I would say.

I personally have not used the imprint, so no real feedback on that, but you can always opt into a dedicated eq after you get your system in and figure out how it is. Alpine and Eclipse are both great companies, and IMO on a practical price range the two best decks out there. The 9887 is well worth every penny, but if you don't plan on a running an active setup then the 9886 is enough to fit the bill. Just let me know man, always fun to put some beat in someone's vehicle. By the time you have money and get equipment for your's mine should be done so I can give a demo of what is possible from a trunk

that amp will push more than 3000 watts, especially with backed up electrical. BTL's are a little more sensitive to power, which means they are louder per watt, but by going to the BL's you are adding ~50 sq. in. of cone area I would say that will give you a larger increase in SPL. Plus the BL's would be a little more musical, but I don't think with either you need to worry about the "SQ" of the woofer, with 3kw and knowing you are probably going to be driving around using all 3000 watts, I would say there will be no SQ to your system.

you should get the boxes wrapped to match seats whenever you do it

and you Eagle, you got pics of 3500d's in your sig, lets see the 4500's! lol