mjmarovi

glad to see you are running the 3sixty processors, I though you did but wasn't sure, I am currently saving up for a 3sixty.2, a t600-4, and a t400-2 to run some hybrid legatia 3-way components. Another question, I notice you use powermaster's in the back, but yellow-top under the hood? why not all yellow-tops? or why not all powermasters? (i'm in the market for a 2nd batt currently have single yellow-top under hood) OH AND OF COURSE GREAT VID!!! Always a pleasure watching your vids, I think steve meade vids are an addiction. p.s. Your vids helped me find Fi car audio and are the reason I run them now.

Get that guy's fosgate t2000.1bd, thos amps are sick, that thing will actually push over 3kw at 1 ohm, and be very clean. just make sure you have the electrical system to do it. fosgate amps are my personal favorite, closely followed by zapco, and I am anxious to someday use a sundown. oh yes, and US amps kick ass as well.

I have wondered that myself actually. But the more I talk about them the more I love the names and don't really think about what they mean. Yes, I would think Q has something to do with quality. SSD- Show,Stop, and Drop? Q- Quality BL- Bitchin Loud BTL- Break The Levy's Not sure on how to spell levy's, you know like the walls that hold water.

Alright, i'm running a fosgate p450.4 bridged on a set of polk db comps, and a fosgate p1000-1bd (1230 at 1 ohm out of the box). My alty went out shortly before I put in the new system, so I upgrade to a 130 amp alternator, if i had more money at the time would have went larger. I also got an optima yellow-top. My lights are dimming like mad, and the sub is running a little warm, it's a 15" Q with bp power so i know i'm not over-driving it. i'm guessing lucky to get 900 watts to it after voltage loss. I know i need to upgrade and should add a second battery so here's the real question... It was my thought that optima yellow-top's were basically the best battery out there, but it seems not too many people tun them in the car audio world, is it price? (if so i don't really care i just want the best, i can always wait and save.) also, i am going to switch from the one p450.4 to two t400-4's on a total of 4 sets of speakers, do you think an alty upgrade will be needed? if so what would you recommend and who would you recommend putting in the extra alty. I hope i posted all the info needed i hope you all running high wattage systems can give me your best recommendations from experience. Thanks in advance Matt

awesome thanks man! I think i'm going to go with a second yellow-top, same power as the kinetic 600, and a bit cheaper plus already running one yellow-top. just picked up 0 gauge wire today, so doing the big 3 tomorrow and might do the second battery friday when i get paid.

bl 10? with the right power and setup those woofers are ridiculous, seen one do 148 before. absolutely insane, lol you will have lots of fun with people trying to find where all that bass is coming from " no way that's from one ten"

lol, yeh that could be bad, but as long as gas cap is on while plugged in. and if charger is off before plugging it in. exactly what all are you putting on those doors? 6 6 1/2's and a 10 for mid-bass? lol absolutely insane, i don't see this being a vehicle you can even drive with the system halfway up. or sit in with it cranking at all.

yes, the optima seems to have crazy discharge time, it actually burnt up my stock starter so had to replace that. yes i know about big 3, and am going to do it next paycheck, i just know my problem extends beyond that. i will check into kinetics and powermaster, kinetics is the name i forgot, heard lots of good about them before. also, for running second battery to trunk, do i need any other hardware? or can i just run 0 gauge from battery in engine compartment to batt in trunk, ground it, or run 0 back to (-) on main batt then just run power wires from amps to the trunk batt. or do i need an isolator or something? can't remember what kind of alty it is, it is actually a replacement for a stock one on a 98 maxima. see, my 99 infiniti is basically the same car but newer with a few extras, in 98 or 97 or something they used 130 amp alty's, in 99 110 i think is what i had, and now they are down to like 90's. i was thinking about adding like a 200 or 240 iraggi but not sure how much it would cost to get the work done.

what did the rf amp test at out of the box? and would it come with the test sheet?

bump! any updates Meade??

how about 3 12's? 12's are the most musical and have the best SQ, and still have the ability to go low, with 10's you're not gaining any SQ from 12's, only volume. 3 12's IB would sound awesome in the rear deck. you'd probably only really need two though. on say...a sudown saz1500d.

and.....your install? what is it going in? amp/power to it?

I think you will be very happy with either, but maybe a little more output out of the Q, e-mail Scott and see what he says if you really want to be sure. If money is anything of an issue then save it and get the AA, not a big difference man. Just remember, AA is more of an SQ company but that doesn't mean they can't get loud.

go for the 3sixty, it's swEEt, works with bluetooth, laptops and palms, that's right, you can tune your EQ from your computer and/or palm, how cool is that? probably one of the better sound processors out there, my favs are the 3sixty's and the alpine h701, but the alpine needs either an alpine HU that can control it or the controller for an additional 250 bucks, I mean in your case it would be cool to have the controller too so that your current HU would only be a player, (much better SQ that way), but the processor alone is 500 so 750 although badass is a lot of money. For ease of use I'd go with the alpine, just as good as the RF, both very close in quality, the alpine is probably a little more compeition worthy though, much more EQ settings. the 3sixty.1 is nice, but the gentleman above is correct, not the best xovers for speakers, only for sub, plus the .1 is only 12db octave, and .2 has selectable 24db (24 is much better)means a stronger xover

very similar man, only difference will really be in the install. if you were doing an SPL setup and were looking at high powered subs then maybe, but the Q is the SQ line from Fi and AA is more if an SQ sub I believe so doesn't matter. IMO just go with the Fi Q's and be done with it you will be amazed by what you hear. Sundown + Fi = Incredible bass

looking at just box space, your ideal option would be one 15 or 2 12's, if you try to port two 15's you wont be giving them enough air space, (SSD or Q) and same for one 18, not enough air space. If it was me, I would see how much more box space you can fit, like absolute maximum dimensions to fit the box, if you can get 6 cuft, two BL 15's ported and get a second amp, of the same one you have, and you will be dropping like a mofo. with current amount of power, two 12 SSD's ported for sure.

i tuned mine at 28hz, I have a bigger box than that though, i listen to mostly rap, well almost only rap in the car, but i'm glad i did because it really helps pound some of the really low frequencies in some of the songs, not sure how high you want it to be able to play, i have mine cut off to 65 which I think is still too high for the setup, but i have no mid-bass besides the 6 1/2's. I honestly it's plenty but IMO only the lows sound good loud, the higher bass is more for fill in the music not to be loud, just my opinion though.

why run anything in a car above 4 ohms?

galacticmonkey, i want to hear your system very badly, saw a vid of it on youtube, absolutely disgusting!! puts your old treo system to shame, at least pretty sure that was yours i saw on ROE. nice work!!

Sounds awesome Scott, absolutely love it, very deep and full and beyong expectations. Just a lot of rattle outside the car, and inside when the roof starts to flap at high volume, but plan getting all of that fixed along with finishing the install in a few paychecks. Goal is to have no rattle and front stage done, and rattle eliminated by mid December. I know a kind of a ways off but I'm short on cash lots of other expenses

Although not done yet, it is installed and I've had a coupld PM's from people asking to see pics of install, so here it is. not really a build log, sorry shoulda taken more pics of me and my friend beating on the trunk floor with a tire arm to get the box to fit. also have a crappy quality vid up on youtube, it was done with cell phone but at least shows some of the flexing power LOL click on the guy who made the comment, then click on his vid on his facebook or myspace or w/e very funny

had a couple videos but turned out terrible through this link, tried youtube, here's my one video and the other two should be processed soon.

amps' birth sheets first is the sub amp of course, p1000-1bd, below it is the p450.4 i have birdged on some polk comps here's a couple more pics and here's some pics of the damage done by the sub, the rear cover panels for the rear pillars, their plastic snapped off and now the cloth flaps around and although hard to see in pic, the tail lens is now cracked from the thumpin

not sure, my old sealed infinity perfects slammed with 800 watts on them. they get plenty loud, i just dont' think sealed boxes hit that great usually under 40 hz.

what amp is it exactly, with that kind of power you can run a Q or a BL, that's basically what i had to work with and i went with a Q. this thing slams, and sounds awesome cause it is their sound quality line. you could also go the BL route with extra options, or a BTL, and both of those would leave you plenty of room for an amp upgrade in the future to pound a little harder.