mjmarovi

has to be the new big boy SPL. looking quite nice I might add...this is the woofer that we should see some working models of and possibly a pre-order by this fall correct? Think I wanna try something 4- 12's

oh yeh, steve meade's button is nothing but a bass control knob, most amps come with them or have the option for one. if you go to comps you will see a few people cranking on them!!

the best alternator out there to actually push the amperage it says it will is Ohio generator, plan $500 dollars for that. BL's are probably a good move, BTL's are quite extreme and you would be looking at a lot more money then. I don't think you are dreadfully off in your estimates. I do SQ builds as well, so to me I plan for 6-800 dollars for deadening, but it really all depends on the vehicle and how much you are trying to get rid of. I mean when I do a db race run my car is silent on the outside (funny to watch in the lanes doing 147's at 35hz and no rattles on the outside) but most don't deaden as much as I do. I would say plan on 300 for deadener, that's two rolls from raamaudio which is some of the best stuff out there. That will cover most of what you need. so basically here's the rundown....I want to help you as much as possible, and hopefully someday here this system always a thrill to have someone get interested into big systems I don't want you to get discouraged, then car audio competitions would never grow!! alternator- ~ 500 deadener- ~ 300 speakers- up to you, could get away with $400 dollars for enough speakers to get loud and clear, just depends on how much quality you want, but for 400 bucks you could bet a decent set of component speakers and then 2-3 sets of coax to back them up. amps for mids/highs- ~400 dollars, again, the quality you want plays a factor in price, for 400 you can get some decent amps that will make the speakers scream, but don't plan on entering the SQ lanes. crunch amps are great for cost efficiency deliver the power they say (within 10% factory standards) and inexpensive. sub amps- you are covered, I mean above posters are trying to downgrade the amps, because yes, they aren't sundown,fosgate, team cactus, or IA, or something like that, but hey you have them so try them out you can decide on your own whether or not to upgrade, hell upgrades are part of the fun down the road. batts- personally I only buy kinetiks, I along with many others agree they are hands down the best batt out there they deliver the quickest, largest amount of power with the smallest amount of resistance to your electrical system. You would need about 6000 batt amps to back that system, so that's three hc2000, at 290 a piece, that's $870 for batts, and on top of that I would recommend throwing another kinetik w/e you can fit up under the hood. so most likely another 290 which would be well worth it, could just throw a hc1400 up there though for 190. plan on about $500 for all the runs of 0 gauge and 0 gauge terminals to connect everything. another $150 for fuse blocks install materials, well bare essentials, (screws, mdf, glue) looking at $200 but I'm sure you don't want some big brown plain jane box in the back so plan on closer to $500 for materials for your box and amp-rack, etc. not sure what you have for a head unit, but ~200 dollar range could get you something pretty nice with ipod and all that jazz to run your system, ~400 could get you a decent dvd deck, although I would recommend a larger investment for a nice eclipse or alpine if you do it. basing most prices from onlinecarstereo.com since they seem to be most competitive, and I've spend like 10k with them myself so I know they are reliable. dont' think I missed anything, total cost I got you at, not counting the woofers because NO chit WE ALL KNOW WHAT BL 18'S COST CAUSE WE ALL KNOW WHERE FICARAUDIO.COM IS?!?! so after woofers... $4010. I don't think that's too bad at all, I'm sure there will be some misc., as every install is unique and an EQ wouldn't be a bad idea to help your amps get a stronger signal, like an audiocontrol or something that can get 6-8v signal to them. it really does help. but that's where you misc. 1k comes from to make your install unique. Hope this helps you, also would be glad to help with more detail and in depth discussion of the system feel free to PM or use this thread. Matt (mjmarovi) Team Sundown

looks pretty straight to me, are any of their mixtapes on datpiff.com? Just curious as I am always looking for some new tunes to get my hands. 142.3 on music? Man, Every number I hear from a trunk system, I feel that much better that I was doing high 146's with ease on music with my two 15" Q's out of a trunk! And that's a 30 sec bass race. Good cover, but the kid on the far left looks much more forward in the picture as if he is upstaging the other two, I would put a pic of him leaning back like the others. Also, Just a thought but I think it would look bad ass with the whole thing in black and white except the street sign.

so you're saying that most likely I will be looking at almost 3kw out of these babies at a constant 14.3,14.4? That's sick cause I will be installing a 14.8v 200 amp H/O alty in the car very soon.

this looks so sick, any specs on the box? what size? or not sure if you would want to share how you did the 4th order in it? Looks sick though, would love to get a demo!

lol I shoulda taken a picture of the old lady with her husband in their convertible about a week ago, they must of heard me comin cause she put here hands to her ears like that little boy. it was two fi 15" Q's on a crunch 3000d. gotta love Fi!

I am getting ready to run a couple 100.4d's on some hybrid legatia 4's and 1's. Had the legatia's before and loved them, can't wait to hear them doubled up with sundown power!

Sometimes amps put out a clipped or dirty signal at low voltage. I know it seems silly, but running a system at 13-14v is a lot better for the speakers as well as the amps. Most people try to push their systems too hard and they drop to around 12v and the amplifier loses all cleanliness. Also, they did you get BP power then do sep. chamber sealed? Your box design is more for SQ, even a shared chamber would increase output. Sounds to me like you would want a big ported box. M5, I dunno man I had two Q15's with BP power as well, and was doing high 140's during bass race below 40hz out of a trunk. Also, Frankie Rio ran Q's for a long time in his ride as well hitting 160's so pretty sure these woofers can dish out the SPL as well. I never had a problem with mine and now they are on their way to another lucky recipient. I ran a 3kw comp. amp on them getting every bit of 1500 a piece.

wow i woulda just cut a piece of mdf to seal it off completely, i mean there's a point of wanting to hear your system right away but damn...

right on man

now lets see what happens with w NS and 4 3000d's....this is getting quite interesting Jacob

oh yeh and you can pick up a nice refurb t3002 or like 150 shipped on ebay.

had a t3002, it tested to 937 @ 1ohm and 846 @ 2 ohm not bad for a 300 watt 2-channel...

so you're telling me an 8cuft box will work beautifully for two 18 NS? wow, that's what I need for my two fi 15's to perform optimally, that makes me think...

I do and will always stick to my guns that kinetik is the best batt out there, and onlinecarstereo sells them at straight up wholesale costs. I got connections to audio shops in the area, and there cost is the same or higher than what onlinecarstereo sells them. I picked up my hc1400 for 190 shipped, and my hc2000 for 290 shipped. Yes, there are other good batteries out there, and I know everyone takes pride in what they use in their own car, but no one can say or will ever tell you with any knowledge that kinetik was a bad choice. I mean go with what you want, but if you want the best and don't wanna have to worry about your batts goin bad then get kinetik. Plain and simple most power capacity with quickest delivery, lot of other batts have the same amperage, but give a higher resistance than kinetiks do which is key for charging and quick delivery to amplifiers.

X2 more cone area plus ability to use more power on the pair of woofers compared to a single....

Just wondering about some power testing results for the SAX series amplifiers. Anyone ever test these to see what they really pushin? Also, I wouldn't mind picking up some equipment to do my own power testing, what would I need to do this?

ahh ok thanks guys think i'm on the right track now...so you basically read the voltage per amps and do some math?

yes johnecon i understand but where do i get one? and how do I know which one to buy?

don't mess around with other batts, get kinetiks, even the top alternator builder in the nation told me kinetiks blow everything else out of the water. If you have a true high quality 200a alternator (what kind of alty is it?) then it will be fine. a kinetik hc1800 or 2000 if it will fit would be great under the hood with two 2400's in the back or even two 2000's with that third batt under the hood. yellow-tops really are a joke compared to kinetiks....kinetiks have the lowest resistance and the quickest power delivery with minimal voltage loss over any other battery out there. and do yourself a favor and grab a power supply to keep them babies charged at home.

where can I buy a clamp?

that answer is good enough for me

Well since I always see so much talk about new sundown products, figured I might as well throw out the possibility of full-range coax and or component speakers. I would def. be more interested in the component speakers, especially if individual drivers designed for active or custom built passive x-overs.

lol yeh meters can be humbling. of course In my case I was actually quite pleased with results....4th place in 139.9 bass race at SBN in my first competition entry.