mjmarovi

exactly, and as long as you realize only running one coil on a DVC cuts the rms in ~half then yeh it's perfectly to do that, question still stands why would anyone want to do these things that are far less than optimal?

Really? Below 30hz? Let's see - Fi SSD, Fi Q, Mach5 iXL, Soundsplinter RL-p, Soundsplinter RL-s, SSA Icon, Dcons too but they don't handle 1000 watts or at least I don't think so, and the Sundown SA subs. x eighty googillion. Treo SSi or SSX

I've heard them all....Xcon and Mayhem will most likely be most musical. Nightshade and BTL will be loudest on a meter as they are the most sensitive per watt. DC audio Lvl 5 is more comparable, and the AQ IMO isn't quite as good as anything else there listed, Note it is less expensive and therefore is still a great woofer for the money. Hope that helps! oh, except I'm comparing all at same amount of power which is really how you should, nightshade is 1500 rms, but can handle 3kw, not fair to compare it at 1500 watts to a BTL or Mayhem or Xcon at 2000 or 2500. as another 1kw the others will surely be louder.

I might do that Monday, work all weekend, I got an old sony sub sittin around I don't care about...lol

why Fs below 30hz? you know that does not have a direct effect on how low the woofer will play right? sundown audio nightshades can get low as hell, and I've heard'em do it and the 15" Fs is 41 hz or 43 depending on VC conifg.

the 8's are there for the third part of the 3-way SQ setup. the 6 1/2's are there to add volume when I crank up the subs. I am contemplating changing up the doors that are already fiberglassed, and just going all 6 1/2's, but goal of the 8's is to only have to run the 8's with the mids/tweets during SQ demos/comps. Only thing is I'm not really sure how much SQ stuff I am going to enter. I am thinking of changing doors to all 6 1/2's, then next summer take the time and money to put some L8's in the floor in front of the driver and passenger seat. Damn, I might just tear down the doors altogether now and re-do them...... to clear that up as I just re-read it, basically my future goals are to have a three-way SQ setup consisting of the Legatia 4" mids and L1v2 tweets and a pair of L8's, maybe something cheaper than the L8's to start, but eventually L8's. the 6 1/2's are basically just there for loud and clean mid-bass, and possibly some reinforcement into the 2-3khz range for when banging the woofers. What are your thoughts?

the brace you showed would be a waste of time IMO. to add some db's try rounding all the corners on the inside of the box. you can do it with poster board, and just use fiberglass resin to put it in, I like that method it's simple and cheap. plus it adds strength to the enclosure, a lot more than those little braces.

Man I wish everyone could understand this. . . I hear over and over how if the gains are not match exactly it will hurt the sub. I have seen first hand more than one time woofers being blown from people trying to run separate amps to separate coils...I would not recommend it, why don't you just get a 1200 rms amp? alpine even has a new m2000 that is 2000 watts at 2 ohms, it would be a good match for the sub, always nice to have a little overhead. and from my learning and experience, it's the slight difference in signal and tone reproduction from amp to amp that causes the destruction, not necessarily the difference in power.

I disagree, and the voice coil will not see the additive power, because they are separate coils. so if you send different signal to them it will break down over time and kill the sub. depending on how bad/how much power will determine how long it will take. I would never ever recommend to anyone to do it, especially someone that doesn't fully understand difference in bridging and parallel/series wiring. and when that guy makes a post about his blown sub asking how it happened, then I will be there to tell him why.

lol banana plugs are going to fix it? please....except for the rare case....local shops crack me up.... def. use the bolts, those plastic cups are such crap.

generally speaking, as you tune lower, you need a larger box for the sub to efficiently reproduce the lower tones. a smaller box tuned higher will generally result in higher SPL. 35 hz is till plenty low to bang most music out there. if you are trying to get a little louder, definitely worth trying out the smaller box

You can run separate amps per coil and separate coils on different channels. only way to run multiple amps to a woofer is to strap the amps, as long as they are strappable. as I said before. it is quite unwise to wire separate coils on the same woofer to separate channels or amplifiers, you will blow your speaker/subwoofer. I don't know where people get off on this idea, and have obviously never actually seen ppl try to do it in person.

I agree with Jay-cee, sounds exactly like what you're looking for. If you are really trying to save money then just match the AQ amp with the AQ woofer. the BTL is a great sub, but it is out of your price range and to really power it to it's potential is going to cost another 5-600 dollars in electrical upgrades. I think all audioque would suit your needs, and for a few more dollars an xcon matched with a 1500d would be a little upgrade.

you need to host them somewhere, like photobucket, then put the link in where the img icon is just above where you type in your message it has the little polaroid looking picture on it

thanks will keep in mind

I wanna see a 150! lol soo close, I'm sure you can squeeze it out somewhere

I just explained why that doesn't matter. the tinsel leads connect the speaker wire (amplifier) to the voice coil. the resistance on the voice doesn't go away when it is not wired to an amplifier, therefore wouldn't go away just cause a tinsel lead isn't there. understand?

you already have the amp, so why not use the extremely clean power that it will be. just saying, there amps at 1/3 the cost that will do the same, and sound the same on a BTL when your beatin down the street.

realistically I won't want to spend more than 80-90 a piece on the 8's, and no more than 60-70 a piece on the 6 1/2's. if it's slightly more or less, that's fine, but right now looking for something in that price range. and yeh, if I was to experiment with something along same price as hybrids, I would choose scanspeak, or dynaudio...or DLS...or rainbow....many others, yeh yeh yeh but just naming those few. thanks for moving the post BTW I did feel bad for jacking that thread. I have looked at those peerless before, I will most likely try their 8's, and I know it's odd, but want to try something different for the 6 1/2's. After system is done, I will save up for L8's and L6's from hybrid probably next summer, but until then figure I will try a few others. some of what I've tried... focal polk CDT mb quart hertz alpine

look at the diagram, how many times do I have to say do not run separate coils to separate channels? wire in series as the diagram shows, then you will have one positive and one negative wire going from the subwoofer to the amplifier. your amplifier will indicate where the bridged positive (+) and negative (-) are. now so that you don't get confused when you see it, the indication on the amp will have one of the positives from one of the channels and one of the negatives from the other channel. you just need the amp to indicate which. got it? if you have the manual to the amp it will have a picture for you, that's one of the perks for spending 2 grand on a 2-channel amp LOL. (sorry but c'mon great amp but really a waste for what you're using it for)

focal makes a great product, their woofers are top notch, nothing I would ever I guess I would see in one of your setup though! lol their mids/highs are a bit too bright for my tastes, but clear nonetheless, I'm with M5 I like their woofers better, their home theater stuff is kick-ass too!! get the polyglass woofers, their entire access line is good, but it is def. clear it is their entry-level line. I have ran polyglass mids/highs, and access mid/highs, and heard their utopia, yeh the 5k set in person, nothing special btw, but polyglass series is way better than access series. their best line, even better than the utopias is the k2power series. that's what really makes the focal name

wire one of the pos (+) terminals on the subwoofer's voice coil to the (-) neg. on the other coil. then wire the pos. on the coil that has its neg. going to the other coil to the amplifier's positive. and wire the neg. on the voice coil whose positive is going to the other coils neg. to the neg. on the amp. yes, only one pos. and one neg. going to the amplifier in the designated "bridged" pos. and neg. location. understand? here's a diagram http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp~Q~1~I~12 the second diagram, the one for the 2 ohm load is how you want to do it.

did you not read my above post? YOU CANNOT run two coils to two channels, you will kill the sub. with that amp, the zapco 9.0 you have one choice, dual 1 ohm sub, wire in series, NOT PARALLEL to 2 ohms. you cannot wire coils on a sub separately, doesn't work that way!! alright man?

oh, another good idea would be to do a single 15 ported. you do already have Q's, and especially if you have the BP power option, a single Q 15 should handle that 1500 watts all day long.

Sundown SA-12, matches nicely for your power and sundowns do pretty well in smaller enclosures. 39 hz is on the high side of tuning though, I thought this was a daily streat-beater?