mjmarovi

well alternator don't really put "more power" just cause battery is lower. they will put out w/e voltage they are constantly, and can put out up to w/e their max amperage output is. your alternator is the power source, so it really powers everything in the car including the batteries, batteries are just their as reserve power. now yes, if batteries do undergo less voltage loss if fully charged to say 15 volts, voltage drop will still occur but not as bad. so yes that will help the alternator from trying to work as hard. still waiting on other inputs about chargers though, I think I have a pretty good grasp on alternators and their job as I said before I'm used to more daily systems than pure SPL burping monsters.

the 3sixty.2 is cool for the fact of bluetooth control, but personally I am much happier with my 9887. I had that processor paired with a older alpine deck, can't remember model no. but it was the highest end in like 2005. Even the xover on the 9887 seems to be cleaner. of course the eq on the 3sixty.2 was very detailed opposed to the 9887, but you can get a dedicated eq for much less than a 3sixty.2. depending on install, I haven't had to do much with the eq anyway. personally I'm not a fan of kenwood decks, they just seem to be as clear, have higher distortion at lower volumes than others, and appearance which is all opinion is well lacking. the excelon 993 does get the job done I'm sure. clarion's higher-end decks are a good choice as well.

Hardly the case. The install they are in is weak. I've heard the SLS 10's. The sls 8's are going to have a higher output compared to the mli's. Both are very nice sounding midbasses but if you have the room, go for an 8. I am very critical of equipment, and know what I'm doing when it comes to install. IMO the mid-bass is weak. and i had 100wrms on them in my car, and friend now has 150wrms on them. He bought them from me cause I sold them to him for practically nothing. You can hear them, but there isn't much authority. I am happier with the hertz hi-energy's, but of course there is a price difference.

yeh he has done some sick fiberglass work, they had a show when they opened up the new shop, it was pretty good, no audio competition though, which is what I want to talk to them about.

I'm looking at those similar speakers myself, haven't had the Peerles but I think that's what I'm going to buy. Many ppl recommend them and I know the company is very reputable and does make a great product as far as history is concerned. the MLI-65 I have had, and a friend is using them now, IMO their mid-bass is quite weak, it is a decent choice for a budget 2-way system, but I would not recommend it as the lower end of a 3-way system. since you are running them, how have you liked your SLS? I am looking at doing 3 pair in my doors for mid-bass, and can't decide whether or not to squeeze in 8's or just go with 6 1/2s. how deep do you have your's playing?

The MKII is pretty sick, was looking at it when I bought my 9887, which I got cause of the better deal. Not sure why you hate the 9887...it is a great deck, I have had no issues with mine and I'm using the processor to run a 3-way active... what do you not like about it? plus IMO alpines are much easier to use than Eclipse, not a fun of eclipse layouts or looks, but the technology in the MKII is top notch. Nakamichi is quite nice as well, but a little price, there is a deal on a couple from woofersetc.com though

lol no I don't plan on running them at 16-18 volts, and I'm really not sure about being AGM that makes not handle the voltage, as kinetik makes a 16 volt batt that is AGM, as does batcap. but I don't really understand what the difference is between the two batteries. only reason I wanted to charge my batts to 15 volts was because I know some guys in competition that said they did and had greater success holding voltage.

audio interventions, it's in Bonita Springs close to me. James used to work at Sound Advice on 41...in fort myers

it was recommended to me, and I have seen results that kinetiks do hold their charge much better at 15 volts. personally I don't know about whether or not it is good to charge them over 15 volts, but I do know I have seen many people in competition run up to 18 volts, and they were kinetik 12 volt batts...like the world record van, their voltage ~18 volts, and they use like 34 2400's or 64 of them or something stupid like that lol. ok yeh I could probably find a good deal o the kinetik charger, that's not too bad a price. what about power supplies? If i had that charger what is the point? I mean I am assuming they help as it seems most everyone uses them at comps, but personally I never have. I guess I've always been into just daily ground-pounding, that's why my concern is always alty's and batts, not charging systems up for burps.

maxed out speedometer in a 03' cobra with about 25k under the hood. speedometer goes to 160, and stayed on it for a cpl seconds after, car does over 200 so i'm guessing ~170?

no one has a recommendation??

by what great customer service they seem to have...no clue....where did you buy it? Paypal to steve miller himself. well I suppose it shouldn't be too hard to call him or e-mail him and ask for a return...

it was distortin that camera quite nicely sounded like it was pounding pretty hard, especially for off that autotek

good to keep in mind, I think I am going to talk to the guys at the audio shop and see what they think...

by what great customer service they seem to have...no clue....where did you buy it?

Having the box built and ready to go by the time you get there, I could do it all in a day for you. I live in south Fort Myers, so depending exactly where you at ~2 hours away. Try floridaspl.com forum, i'm on there too, it's a good forum and you can see if someone is closer to you, but my offer is on the table. No, a 2600 does not exist. Best place for buying kinetiks that I've found is www.onlinecarstereo.com I am a very good customer of their's, and that's def. where I buy all my batts. Best prices and quick free shipping! head units...well for the most part IMO Alpine and Eclipse are about as good as it gets, besides finding those few decks out there for SQ competition like Macintosh, Nakamichi, and alike. but those are crazy expensive and def. not a need for this install. Personally I run the Alpine CDA-9887 with built-in xover, and absolutely love it. I had a rf 360.2 processor before, and this deck blows that processor away. (which was paired with a different alpine deck.) the 9887 is alpine's best singe-din that is not a DVD player, and it runs ~400. Well, they have an F1 status still I believe, but yet again no need for this install. for eclipse look into the MKII. that would be the competitor for alpines 9887 with built-in xover. (which you may not need, but it is nice to have) Pioneer makes a few decent decks, but overall that company has had many ground issues and background noise problems with decks. you seem to be on the right track with everything else...

are you sure you have it wired to 1 ohm? you have them wired in a series/parallel combination correct? each sub in series, then the two together in parallel to the amp? would it be possible to take a video? I know it's not the best, but would def. give a general idea of what kind of output you're getting. a ported box would be much louder, but really something's wrong if it's that quiet

wow I know this is an old thread, but did you ever test it? from what I've seen, doing subs and port forward into cabin with everything sealed off is the loudest, then second is sub back port back with as much room for air to move forward into the cabin as possible.

I see what your idea, so that you could fit 15's or even 18's and they would be mounted in the bed area, behind the wall. I think if built right you could get some good SQ, but I'm not so sure you would get the larger output you are looking for. I would just say go with more powerful 12's lol. or you could do something like a 4th order, mount the sealed portion of the box and the woofers in the bed, then port it into the cab. that would be much more practical then crossing a t-line with a 6th order. I saw the setup done in the trunk of an older cutlass, it was ported through the rear deck, slammed quite nicely for a 2000 watt system and two 15's.

could be a signal issue...try swapping RCA's...or switch the output from your HU...and did you try gaining down a little to see if it goes away?

Haha, what happen Jacob? you mean a 400 watt rms sub broke from ~2000 watts, that's it, i'm done, what happened to the quality control? LOL JK that's amazing it took that much to do it. I am already getting some crazy thoughts about these, maybe re-do the system I am working on now in the spring....j/w what 12 of these could do on ~9kw

alternator- the bigger the better, IMO ohio generator builds the best out there, and if you give them a call they will be more than willing to help you out on designing and building an alternator to suit your needs. batts- Batcap, XS powermasters, and Kinetiks are really the best 3 pretty unanimously. as for which is the best, opinions vary, the owner of Ohio Generator along with myself agree that Kinetik is overall the best batt, but any choice from the three companies I mentioned would do great. amps- SUNDOWN FTW!! lol if you want the system to last in the future, and not have to upgrade to a higher quality amp in the future go with something nice like a sundown from the start. a single BTL when installed correctly can handle even up to 4kw daily. of course any sundown SAZ series is strappable, and the minimum I would recommend on one is a 1500d, so you could always buy more and strap them together in the future. subs- BTL is a good choice, Ascendant Audio Mayhems are great to, built and designed from the same guys. as for the air space, that would be for a 15" 18's you should really use 6-8 cuft, and to hit the lows well and be more musical you will want to be closer to 7.5-8.5 cuft per sub. install- who is doing all of this for you? or are you doing it? be sure to allow money in budget for install materials and wiring, this is a decent sized install you are talking about so I hope you feel comfortable doing it, if not then we can make some recommendations for you there as well.

once you get to 1/2" or greater, plexi is pretty damn strong, at 3/4", that should work out quite nicely, just do us a favor and post some pics when it's all done would love to see it!

pretty much right Jay-cee, but you really only want to use one LPF. so you would want to turn either the one on the HU or the amp all the way up or off. of course you would want to go with which either one is of higher quality. or perhaps if they are different db/slope

"decent build standards" is not okay with me, I want perfection, though I may not always get it. Being a Sundown user you should know what I mean, guess not. I want perfection as well, but that has nothing to do with comparing Hifonics to Power Acoustiks. those two companies are wildly different, and using crunch A/B class amps and Hifonoics brutus series is like using rockford prime amps and saying rockford sucks. what about Hifonics XXV? what about the crunch 3000d-pro? and for rockford what about the power series? some companies that have high-end equipment that is competition grade also offer less expensive lines for people on a smaller budget, doesn't mean the company is crap. now back the actual topic: OP any progress?