azlnick

Current setup is in sig. I ordered my XCON a couple of weeks ago and I'm shopping around for amps to power it. It'll go in an optimal ported enclosure. I've checked db-r.com and the classifieds in caraudio.com, here, ebay, amazon, and woofersetc. Sundown amps, DB Drive amps, Crescendo, Cadence, Audiopipe, Nakamichi, Planet Audio, and others I'm sure I'm forgetting to name. I know 300w or even 600w will make the XCON pound, but with a 200A alt, I can get up to 1200w each. My goals are mostly SPL, but I hope to retain the SQ that I am LOVING with my ID components. I'm sure the XCON can make a seamless transition from blending in with the front stage, to breathtaking chest thumps. With that in mind, I'm wondering what would be the right amp for my single XCON 12 for now, but possibly a 2nd XCON later? If I can reach the above goals with only a single XCON, then please let me know and suggest an appropriate amp. Thanks guys!

Ok thanks guys, I'll keep my eyes out for both.

Oh right! D1 and there's not really a budget, I'd say less than $700, but if I could keep it around $300-$500, that'd be great.

If you do end up going that route, you should sell me one of your XCONs and your enclosure! They are gone.... What?? Sold already? Stolen? I saw you punctured your dustcap, but that's about it.

If you do end up going that route, you should sell me one of your XCONs and your enclosure!

Why not go right in the middle with the GCON? I know 1000w is over the 750w rating, but let's face it, SSA subs are underrated as is.

I think we can all agree that Fi does make great products; but setting product quality aside, when it comes to customer service, Fi seems to be dropping the ball quite a bit.

Happy Birthday!

I installed my big 3 about 2 months ago, and I was in a hurry to get it done. I want to help shield the wires from the heat and possibly change my battery terminal to a ring-style terminal. Will Techflex be enough? Or should I put on some wire loom as well? I'd like to be able to just put on some color matching techflex to my power, ground, and amp cables, but if the AZ heat is going to beat down on those wires this summer, I'll wrap some wire loom around them if need be. What do you guys think? EDIT: KnuKonceptz 0g wiring. According to their website, with the insulation, it's 16mm thick, just over half an inch. Should I go for the 1/2 techflex or the 3/4? Same question goes for the wire loom.

I see, so techflex and wire looming is more cosmetic rather than practical. I'll just move my wires around in a neater fashion then. Thanks guys.

Researched a bit about ampacity. Not making too much sense to me, can you explain it?

Went to a local event and went home with a ton of free stuff!

Murderin that mickey dees! Damn that hits hard.

No it's not touching the exhaust, it's a good 6-8" away from it. It does get warm, but I haven't had any problems yet. Glad I could help!

Both wires are ground wires, I just ordered the wrong amount of red and black cable so I had to use some red for ground. DMM measures zero resistance. I know it's messy, but it works for now. Maybe I'll clean it up when I do my sub install. The two blue wires are 4 gauge, one of them is my starter cable, the other runs to my front stage amp. You can't see it, but the other ground wire (2nd red wire towards the top of the pic) is going pretty far down to the engine chassis. I tucked the wires behind the air filter, and you can see the 4g blue running into the firewall. Ok here is where I wish I had NOT used Knukonceptz terminals, I should've used just regular 0 gauge crimped terminals, which I'll swap out another day. This is where you have to be mindful of how close the stock wiring is to your alt. This is how I ran my alt to batt cable. There's no sleeving or anything like that, but it's been going strong for about 2 months now. I'll put sleeving on it someday.

Your Camry is very similar to my Avalon, Big 3 will be relatively easy for you to do in my opinion, but the engine ground cable run might be difficult for you to get to. Be careful with adding to the alt, one of the stock wiring cables hovers just over the alt and I had a mini fire and burned some of the magnesium coating off of the copper on my alt because I didn't bother trying to pry the stock wiring connector in a fashion that would make it harder for it to make contact with the alt. I also replaced my starter cable with some larger 4 gauge cable, my car starts up nice and fast now. I'm fairly new to car audio still, but I got it to work. TL;DR - The early 2000 Toyotas are troublesome, just be careful and triple check

The plastic that holds all of the controls for the windows and doors seems to rattle a bit, any ideas on how to stop it? I was thinking some type of small felt tape that you can find at hardware stores.

liked That sub sounds amazing, can't wait to hear the winner!

Anyone else want to take a stab at it?

Vehicle : 2002 Toyota Avalon XLS Location in the vehicle: Trunk with rear armrest access port Space available (Length x Width x Height): 22"x42"x16" Subwoofer make and model: SSA XCON 12 D1 Number of Subwoofers: 1 for now. Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Kerfed would be optimal, Slot if not kerf. What type of music do you like?: Electronic, Drum n Bass, Classic Rock, Alternative, Rap, Hip-Hop, R&B. Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday Music geared towards SQ Tuning Freq (Hz): 28-30 or so Volume : 2.5-3.0 Questions: 1. I plan on only giving about 600-1200w by a Crescendo BC2000D, should I have the volume of the box be closer to 3.0 to maximize efficiency? 2. As far as tuning goes, I would love to enjoy the lows and compliment my Image Dynamics CXS62v2 front stage. Is @28hz low enough? Should I port even a bit higher to make sure I have the SPL I am expecting from the XCON? 3. I plan on doing double baffle and flush-mounting the sub, do I need any bracing? How does kerfing compare to slot in terms of output, SQ, and is it worth the effort? I'd love to hear your in-depth explanations so I can know more about fabrication, box building, and audio in general. Thanks in advance guys!

I've seen people suggesting to use threaded rods for internal bracing, how would I do this? Still wondering if kerfing is worth it.

It's a small town, it's low costs on their part. It gives them a chance to test run it, work out any kinks before introducing it to much larger cities. This is coming from a Business/IT student's perspective.

I think a 3.0ft^3 enclosure would be what you should aim for to account for the XCONs 0.17 cu.ft displacement. If you choose to double baffle or add bracing, that would lower the volume as well. In the end you should have close to the recommended size enclosure.

Can't go wrong with more cone area for more output.