puscifer2

I've got a pair of 12" ethos ordered, seeing stuff like this makes me anxious to hear them playing. Hope yours goes well!

Plain and simple. Replacing a 8,12,16 or some such ohm tweeter in your home speaker with one of 4 ohms, just made the passive crossover nearly null and void. It wasn't designed for that resistance or that tweeter. The cross points are now a random number to you. Next time just run wires from the amp to the tweeter no filter.

The 80 prs has all of the features you just listed.

I swear to god if someone at the shop told you that the DQDX was one of the best on the market I'm going to have Sean drive over there and kick every single one of them in the nuts, and yours twice. I just died...roflmfao

Send me a pm. For some reason I can't send one to you.

I just ordered it on amazon. Kinda pricey tho

Have you tried winisd. Pull it up on a graph and see what it looks like. It doesn't account for your room but it's close enough for government work.

Taramps are supposedly rated for 16v. Might be worth a look??

Check the cut sheets for a Fi bl. If I'm not mistaken the specs are the same but it's only 13 1/2" tall

there's a link on the page there for Aeroport which i'm guessing does the calculations for the flared portion of the port. the area formula for a circle is pi * radius squared. so 3.14 x 2 x 2 = ~12 sq inch. the length of the port corresponds to the tuning frequency. looks like you would want to do at least two 4" aero ports. What is Stephan's site? I keep hearing about it and would love to check it out.

its insulting to legitimate pro audio drivers to call garbage like those cresendos pro audio. zero published parameters? obviously the company is trying to cash in on uneducated consumers. You're right. I've never really looked at them before but if they don't have any specs listed shame on crescendo.

Pro audio is just about as efficient as it gets. That's pretty much their whole design. The speakers themselves aren't shit, install is. A10" will make life difficult but still doable with install and an eq. The easier way to fix it for you is yes start over. Research first don't just pick a speaker because someone said it sounded good. Try some sets at your shop and see what you like.

Pro audio drivers huh? Like I said fix your install. Pro audio almost always need a ported enclosure built to have any kind of mid bass. You probably just saw a 10" woofer and thought it would be awesome. FIX YOUR INSTALL!!!

What crescendo speakers do you have? If it's the cz series that's the same ones I run. They are awesome. Fix your install. I'm not active or anything super fancy, but they are more than capable of being a great set for anyone in the early stages of all the stuff we can accomplish in this hobby. What don't you like about them? There is going to be a way to make them sound a lot better than they do right now with just a little effort.

Also check the gains on the amp. It's probably going to be an easy fix.

It says on the site there are other places to purchase this stuff. Yes mlv and the like have sales pitches about it not stinking up the car and whatever. The point was read up on the "why it works". Buy someone else's product it doesn't matter. That site has very useful info on why and how. And research to back it all up. Mitigating outside noise is key to everything else. The quieter inside the car the louder and more detailed your source will become.

To add to your edit. Replacing the factory mid with a coax is to keep impedance the same as it was when it came in. Which isn't really true but hey why not. It's not really bad for it Seems like the highs would need serious tweaking to sound respectable at all... I wouldn't say the tweeter on a coax distorts as much as is it is deflected by the woofer. Think about it a much more powerful sound wave will over power the smaller sound wave. In a customer car they probably could care less as long as it has sound coming out of it. The goals you have been reaching for will have to have all this accounted for. Another reason to start small. Reflections and staging will be crucial to your end game. My responses may not be the most scientific or thorough but I'm trying to not overwhelm you too much. There's a shit ton more that could be covered. Some of which I would keep my posts out of since I haven't made it that far into this stuff either.

Cld, mlv, acoustastuff? Sounddeadenershowdown.com should be your best friend right about now. They have all the breakdowns of what does what and WHY it does it. That is part 1 of your install, more to come if your really going beyond a " typical " install. Processing, placement among others are WAY out of your reach right now.

As long as it's not getting soaked it'll be fine, wood faces the same humidity installed in the car as it would being built.

So again, walk before you run. Jumping into the most complex thing you can think of with out the baby steps is going to be disastrous. Start simple and work your way up. Become excellent at one part of this install and then upgrade to the next level. Start with a proper install of your current equipment. I bet you never knew it would sound as good as it does after being installed right. Seriously a $ 20 speaker properly installed will kill a $ 300 speaker thrown in. A lot of people need hands on experience to learn. But if you don't know why basics are needed, hands on works against you.

First go through some build logs on here. Check out sound deadener showdown, and then research the meanings of these parameters you type. And then research the parameters you haven't yet mentioned. Along with the interactions with each other. After all that we may get somewhere. This has nothing to do with all the time alignments and eq and such you still need to learn to pull off your install. Btw I assure you as an owner of a pioneer 80 prs it will do more than you will need it to as a beginner in this whole process.

Damn near big enough to pick up the car without leaving a scratch.

I think they do. Ssa, Fi, Sa. I'm pretty sure all of them are like that new.

Read the disclaimer on m5's tag. He may come off like a dick sometimes given your point of view, but he's trying to get you to think. Plain and simple most of us agree you're jumping the gun here. Take it as you wish, ultimately it is your car and your money. I'm pretty sure he's trying to tell you, your putting up specs for items and don't fully grasp what they mean. Not individually but as a whole. Reading into one number of a speaker, amp whatever means very little to nothing. It's the whole set of info given you need to understand. Especially your desire to go the more complex active route.

Just remember give it a week or two to loosen up before you really kick it's ass. You should be more than happy with it. Fi builds some mean stuff. I run a 12" bl and love it.