mikey5472

Got the jimmy back today!!!! :drink40: :drink40: Pretty excited, cost a lot more than expected, but I should be ordering recone for original xcon next week. and hopefully ordering new xcon soon after.

Well I was supposed to get my jimmy back yesterday, but something was wrong. I am not sure what, but I should have it back today, also ssa's buildhouse should be getting the xcon today.

Dude that happens to me everyday if not every hour. Haha

lmao at you chop

Wayne- No ceilings mixtape

Haha thanks steve, I'm try to get chop to come out here, maybe you could come with him. :drink40:

Went to ship the xcon today. It cost less than I thought it was going to. 50 bucks, I figured about 60 or 70. Well anyway mark if you read this it should be there next Thursday.

Started on the tranny yesterday and realized that it was way to much shit for me to mess with. Haha, but I'm having a mechanic I know put it in. so ther went 500 that was going to go towards car audio.=( so ordering my xcon will be postponed until about the end of January. I am still sending the old xcon in tomorrow so I still have some sounds soon. And I think my alt is going out, which I palnned on ordering one anyway, but That will be a set back down the road... Stay tuned!!!

--------------UPDATE----------------- : Got a tranny for the jimmy starting that today. : Sending Xcon in wednesday to get fixed/reconed to a 15". : Ordering other Xcon in the next couple weeks.

You'll be hearing it soon don't worry. haha

Sending the old xcon 18" in next week to get reconed. Should be ordering another 15 in the next couple weeks. I can't wait to get started on this build. Haha

Well there is going to be some changes until about mid spring. Instead of lvl 5 it will be 2 15" XCONS off 1 3000d. I'm getting my old 18" xcon reconed to a 15" (since it is meessed up and needs sent in anyway) and wiil be ordering the other 15 in the next couple weeks. I still need mids and highs. I got a killer deal on a MB quart set, but I'm not sure on how good they will sound or anything. I will be running active off the 100.4. Stiil stay tuned as I will start the build soon. I got a tranny coming next week.

Should be getting the second 3000d next week or the week after.

your ol' pal mikey just redone the whole front end of his jimmy.... you might have him give it a look. chop he did it himself? Yea did it myself.

Hey kelsey BTW the front end on our jimmys usually go out around 60k. The cv axles are 79 a piece, the ball joints are kinda expensive. For moog it was around 180 for upper and lower on both sides.

it is tuned to 35 hz.... it is said to have a fs of 24.5hz. , ........ i wanted to be loud, which it is, but it does not play the lows in a manner in which i am use to. the Xcon still wanted more power... the SAZ-1500d definetly is a power horse but that 18" Xcon wantss even more.... I am old school in that 18"s were said to be sloppy...... ha ha ha , yeah right.... it does dam good at plating low notes.... the tried and true song, Bass I Love You is represented beautifully.... the bass notes hit very loud and the lower ones, create quit the eye candy. the 18" SSA XCON has no problem being equall to a 12" subs reputation for tight accurate bass, only ou move aalot more air with this beast.... air, doors, roof panels, everything is moving, lol. The Sundown Nightshade was a 12" sub, but let me tell you, the S.O.B. is bullet proof. With the right power behind it, wow, it does like magical sh*t to your music. the lows are very tight and the bass is crazy loud . We have played with it with some serious power going to it and it still just keeps wanging. I can only imagine the larger diameters and what thier output would be. The 4 12"s we had in the F150 had more potential still. However for a cheaper brand , they did not disapoint me any. they were in dual prefab boxes stacked... needed a single enclosure speced out to thier needs.... uh, i guess by my experiances and todays technology the diameter is not a big issue...... cone area will equal more air being moved but it also matters more importantly having the right amount of air space and tunning with the right amount of power to back em up. chop It is hooked up in my Jimmy right now with my saz 3000d and it is insane, It is just as loud as my Xcon, without the getting low factor. But overall I liked them both. Very good companies with very good products.

Bullshit chop. lol. You know when I get completely done you'll want to cruise the strip every nite of the week. haha.

I was wanting to order my system next month. But I guess I have to wait til mid 2010. That sucks.

Any updates???

How are you going to use bolts on an enclosure to join the edges?? I know there is a chemical that is used specifically to do these types of things. But I forget what it's called. It basically welds the plexi together. I think that would really be the correct way to do it. Bolts would look ugly anyways. Right, bolts or screws would kinda mess with it. I sent an emai to the people from that link, hopefully they reply soon. Also let me know if you figure out what the chemical is called, I could use that info haha And he means like predrill a hole and instead of a wood screw use a bolt, minus the nut on the other end. I do believe thats what hes saying.. Ok for the bolt, you could do it. This is what you would do. Ok you have the joint (top and side) so to speak, predrill the hole 1 size smaller than the bolt, and either tap the hole with the same size and thread as the bolt or you could tap the hole with the bolt. You will probably still need a adhesive of some type. Actually you will need to use an adhesive. Also might want to use a washer and countersink the hole so that the bolt will be flush with the outer wall. That is NOT how you tap a hole, please learn how to do it before you start giving advice on that. First off figure out what size bolt (technically a screw in this instance) you would like to use, then look at a chart like this one http://www.kramerusa.com/DrillTapChart.htm to find the corresponding drill size for the hole to tap. After that is drilled, use a tap, there are several different styles depending on what you are doing, find whats best for your use. Then tap the hole using the tap, not a bolt, that is asking to break the Plexiglas. I was recommending on using a tap, yes the bolt probably would break it without tapping it. I have had to drill and tap many holes. In cars and dirtbikes all sorts of things, And actually I asked my dad before I siad anything just to make sure I was right.

How are you going to use bolts on an enclosure to join the edges?? I know there is a chemical that is used specifically to do these types of things. But I forget what it's called. It basically welds the plexi together. I think that would really be the correct way to do it. Bolts would look ugly anyways. Right, bolts or screws would kinda mess with it. I sent an emai to the people from that link, hopefully they reply soon. Also let me know if you figure out what the chemical is called, I could use that info haha And he means like predrill a hole and instead of a wood screw use a bolt, minus the nut on the other end. I do believe thats what hes saying.. Ok for the bolt, you could do it. This is what you would do. Ok you have the joint (top and side) so to speak, predrill the hole 1 size smaller than the bolt, and either tap the hole with the same size and thread as the bolt or you could tap the hole with the bolt. You will probably still need a adhesive of some type. Actually you will need to use an adhesive. Also might want to use a washer and countersink the hole so that the bolt will be flush with the outer wall.

You could just put a gasket type deal in between the plexi/lexan. Then pre drill holes and use BOLTS. not screw.