cougarballa2k5

His point is that high xmax and power handling have not a whole lot to do with output. Take a look at the old stroker, barely moves and gets loud as hell. Take a look at the W7, moves a fark ton and does nothing. There is a whole ton of science dealing with the motor of a subwoofer. More so than a lot of people will ever realize. If you ever see a subwoofer boasting LMT, Dual Gap, XBL etc. It is almost best to assume they are not meant to get loud. Regardless of the high xmax biproduct -- there will be woofers that get much louder with less.

Crap I would love to demo that thing. I've got 1500 @ 4 ohm available too :(. Sucks to live in south carolina. How about just a healthly discount if I put 4 in a wall??

x2 on the demo ring. Seeing these in production, they may be my next move. Something has to go in the wall I have planned. Maybe the RL-s will fit the bill. *Anxiously awaiting further information* Also, I'm still wonder just how much louder this will get on 1500RMS compared to a same size RL-p on 800RMS.

Right now I've got an Ascendant Audio Atlas 15, and about 400 - 500RMS to play with. I am thinking of upgrading to the D2 later this year. My question is, on limited power, is the D2 still an upgrade?? The Atlas is no slouch down low and does pretty darn well off of 400 RMS, 18mm xmax. The box I plan on using is going to be a 4.5 cubic foot ABC box tuned to 33hz.

Well, right now they are housed in 5.5NET @ 37hz w/ 70in^2 port area. Not what I call an ideal box. They are loud, but not by my standards. New box will be had in less than a month 6 Cubes NET, 33hz, 91in^ port area and threaded rod bracing. The port velocity in the current box is ridiculous, blows harder than fudge, and has got to be hurting my output. Also I have serious flex issues, like the baffle actually has an xmax :-p. From what I've seen out of them thus far, I have a feeling that in about 1 month, I am going to be very, very loud.

I agree on the non-doubling baffle idea. It does help a lot in wall situations though. Even going as far as 6 or so layers. If what Dan Wiggins says is true, then my entire xmax is being cancelled out :-D. The new box will have two lengths of threaded rod. Top to bottom and side to side. No front to back AFAIK, I'll update yall if it will have three way bracing. I think yall know the guy, Ibanender/Sean. He's helping me out and building it for me -- I don't haev my garage anymore.

Download this song!!! One of personal favorites and has some VERY quick VERY loud bass. Mudvayne - pucking Determined

If you port it, I would stay closer to 2 cubes net.

I don't have my garage anymore, so I am getting Ibanender to build it for me. Hoping to meet him at a show Sept 10th and pick it up. How much does flexing hurt output? Its not like 10mm xmax lol, but it sure is flexing. I have great expectations, before its all over -- this chit is going to be LOUD. EDIT - And are you sure that port velocity doesn't hurt output??? The new port will have 30% more area. Should lessen my velocity problem.

It would be fun just to see if Sean gained with the new ones.

Is sean getting them?

Because I do not want to bypass the factory amplification on the front and rear speakers. I don't have the time, nor feel like installing my components and their amp quite yet. Also I am planning on an indash so I might as well sell my current player, and save some cash.

I have a factory system in my new Explorer and do not want to go through installing my cd player right now. I want to keep it all stock except unhook the 8"sub in the back, run the signal to my amp and have my two 15s back there. How would I do this?? Could I simply hook a LOC to the wires that went to the 8"?? Or would the power that is run through that be too much for an LOC, or does it even matter? Quick Quick with the help if you can please, going to try and get this done by tomorrow. Thanks much.

So you think I'd be just perfectly fine tapping in right at the factory subwoofer?

I have no doubts that it will get the signal just fine. The thing is, there is more power running through those wires than would normall go to an LOC...I don't suppose it could make a HUGE deal of difference. Worse to worse, the LOC will blow...my amp wouldn't be in danger nor would my subs/factory amp/cd player right?

I'm out to get the most from my pair of RL-p 15s. I am more than likely going to be acquiring a 1994 Explorer to replace my Cougar soon. Space is even more so, no longer an issue. I have around 800 - 1000 RMS on tap per 15. Depends on how proper the rating on my amp is. Currently, they are housed in 5.5 NET @ 33hz w/ 72in^ port area. I would like suggestions/personal experiences as to what would be louder. I personally would like to try 6.25 NET @ 32hz w/ 110in^2 port area. Thoughts/Random comments all welcome.

Sealed and one is popping before the other? Odd, is there noticeable excursion differences between the two?

No, its impossible to tell until you load the box in the car. The transfer function of the vehicle plays a huge part in how loud it is and where. peak higher = peak frequency is a higher hz steep rolloff = rolls off quicker, less linear response

Congratulations, you have figured out a huge error in the gain settin tutorial on this forum. It doesn't take into account overrated amplifiers. I bet 1000 bucks and my left nut that you are heavy into clipping if observed with an oscilloscope. The amp is overrated, and isn't going to produce 1200 RMS into a 1ohm load without clipping.

How do you have your cd player at +5 and the gain maxed using the DMM method? You are heavy into clipping.

What didn't you like about 7@34. Do you think 6@34 would be a good option?? I'm wondering if it will be louder across the board than my 5.5@33.

You are probably bottoming out the driver. I don't know how your setup is, but its easy for one sub to unload quicker than another depending on placement in relation to the port.

IMO, step up to 2.75 and let er wang. Or if 2.5 is your limit, it'll do damn fine too.

hehe, fair enough Mike :-D

subzero makes the bendy ports.