F3RR3T

All is uninstalled now need to order more equipment

ya i know that feeling i was going to get 2 then i got 8 now im getting 12 LOL

Im going to go check in a sec. I wired them Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, Two 4 ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Speakers What gauge wire did everyone use? I tried 12 gauge and it was to big so I went with 18 for now. 12 was to big? I used 8 happy birthday

Here ya guys go 3.5 cubes at 34hz. powered by a 3500d Door panels and carpet are getting glassed, and the box got messed up when the front baffle separated. i had a all thread brace through the box and through the back cab wall, it tore through the cab and then let the baffle flex. so the 1x10 is holding the baffle together. Box is now uninstalled and the blow through is in store, 12 E8's on 2 3500's in a 4th order. Sorry about the quality crappy camera and i was in a huge hurry to get home. the tape is holding the 2nd port steady as it developed a crack when the baffle broke. the piece of wood at the top was a piece of oak to space the seat off the box. As it was closer to the box then the bucket seats i took out. Mirror doesnt shake violently since i glued all the joints lol

Thanks Just got back from Lowes. Is it just me or are wood prices going up?? 1 4x8 sheet was $27.84 + tax. I thought last time I bought some it was like $21 a sheet. + $15 in gas.. I hate living in BFE! im in ocala florida MDF was 21 a sheet its 27 here also at lowes. i get my mdf from a local hardwood dealer and his price has stayed the same at 30 a sheet,

ill take a video of mine in the mornin. 6 sa-8's on one 3500d. One port is broke loose and is held by tape. and the double baffle has cracked and has a 1x10 over it screwed to keep it together for a vid. I got a bad batch of MDF that has gave me problems has a china sticker on it instead of saying chile.

Thanks for the update jacob. Got my Sa-8's and 3500d today, the 8's are beast. there installed waiting on the 100.4 now. ive got 4 dealers down here to demo to, So hopefully we will get a few signed.

8.25" overall basket OD (no gasket) 7.375" cut-out diameter (without gasket) Finally cut the holes in my box boy did i shit when there was only 7/16 of mounting surface

6 SA-8's on a 3500 box is 3.75 cubes at 34hz. Going in a regular cab hardbody

lets pray they will get here fast enough for them to make it to me for SBN

I have a mach5 audio MJ-18 i would like to throw it in a ported box but space is a huge issue. I could do 3.5 maybe 4 cubes at 34hz. will be giving the sub between 600-800 rms. i know its not optimal but it would be better than sealed correct

bump

this just alittle game i play when im bored or cant sleep at night well there doing a promotion whoever gets 50 refferals gets 5,000 quarts of oil in the game. i jsut started playing and this would allow me to get a good start in the game. to be a refferal for me all you have to do is make a username and a password and give them a email address. they will send one email address as a verification that is the only email you will receieve no spam or nothing. this is the link http://hotrodwars.com/register.php?REF=3889 if you do it thanks a bunch if not i hope ya have a good night. post your username here also and if you decide to play ill help ya out

Finally got the new whip. 1994 Camaro z28 lt1 auto first plan is to pull the LT1 and swap it into my dads truck and swap his 4.3 v6 into it. reasoning behind this is i got the car for 1500 bucks. hes giving me a grand for the engine and trans out of car. breakdown sold my truck for 2500 price of car 1500 sell drivetrain 1000 that leaves me 2000, 500 of that will regain access to my shop and pay some bills. the other 1500 is buying the LS1 long block with forged bottom end im getting locally. LS1 should go in after SBN system plans are 2 Nightshade 15's on 2 sundown 3000d's on 16v. System depends on how my new job goes.

its not a T-top car if it was i wouldn't have bought it

lawl in regards to what

i prefer the LS1 over the LT1 alittle more room in the engine bay will be gained by the switch as well. i dont want to let out the engine plans yet LS1 F-bodies are sooo much easier to work on than LT1 F-bodies And they're way faster plus i can build a LS1 with 450HP with, heads,cam and a good tune and with a good 6 speed still get 25mpg. only reason im going with a all forged bottom and h-beams i plan on doing a single turbo sometime next year (around september) lol. i've heard it all. you act like all this is sooooo easy. i well know this is not easy. not my first performance related rodeo. getting 25mpg is not the hard part though

i prefer the LS1 over the LT1 alittle more room in the engine bay will be gained by the switch as well. i dont want to let out the engine plans yet LS1 F-bodies are sooo much easier to work on than LT1 F-bodies And they're way faster plus i can build a LS1 with 450HP with, heads,cam and a good tune and with a good 6 speed still get 25mpg. only reason im going with a all forged bottom and h-beams i plan on doing a single turbo sometime next year (around september)

why? one thing i need to do ASAP is swap in manual trans i cant deal with this auto chit

i prefer the LS1 over the LT1 alittle more room in the engine bay will be gained by the switch as well. i dont want to let out the engine plans yet

i only need about 2.5 cubes per sub. ive done all my measurements and i can get 7.5 cubes. and still keep the rear seat. the flames will be getting wet sanded off asap its done over factory clear. so i will wet sand and re clear

Very nice work, love it and the ends where it sunk in would be perfect for wiring and fuses heck may be big enough to put a battery in

yes the vdub is a sick car i rode in it. i love the plaid interior

Looks great man as usual have you been doing alot of boxes for aq's im on my third box for the hd's im digging the name plates on your boxes also just noticed it. i need to figure something out at the moment im just writing on the inside of the box

You can't use that crossover from PE it won't do you any good. You need a way of equalizing the level between the drivers, ie an L-pad, building one requires multiple components. You need a Low pass for the sub, inductors aren't cheap and you need more than that since 6dB of crossover won't cut it. You also need a high pass for the mids, while you could again try a single capacitor a 6dB slope won't cut it. Assuming you build at least a 2nd order crossover, again you are going to need another inductor. An amp will be cheaper, if you think differently go ahead but don't say you weren't warned. If you just buy some off the shelf crossover expect your system to sound really bad. true true as far as sound i could really care less i just need some mids and highs to go alone with what i got. i may sell the 100.2 and pick up a 100.4 but then im bass'less for a week or 2