todd.brust

JL Audio's higher end product have never been a disappointment to me. I would have to say that the w6v2 is one of the best sounding subwoofers i have heard to date. Hand down. They are by no means an SPL monster, but they rank very highly for SQ in my book. Ported or seal, they sounded great either way. The w7 is a good speaker but i wouldn't say much more than that except for the 8w7. From my experiences, the 8w7 sounds great and has good output for a driver of its size, but the 10 through 13 are nothing too special when compared to other "superwoofers" I've had and heard w7 installs and i would take my current Brahma over a w7. I have never been too impressed with the Ti series Rockford stuff or the Kick Square subs(unless you are talking numbers for the kickers, I saw a guy with 2 10" solo X's hit 153.7 car sealed at the dash in dBdrag) Back to JL again, they make good front stage speakers too. I can't believe Lord B when he says every JL product he has heard sounds like crap. Too much bass makes your ears go bad I always get copliments on how good my JL XR comps sound. But to OP, there are just too many products, mainstream and underground, to compare to one another. The only way you will ever come to a solid conclusion is to try different products yourself and listen, listen very closely.

Send me a Mag to review! I'll even pay shipping! And if i like it enough, never send it back

Good review. I really hope to hear that new Mag in the near future. Seeing that I am broke and will be for a while, and no one around here knows anything too much about anything except the mainstream products, I probably have a long wait

X2!!!!! Just got a spot of rust fixed last spring and now there is another bubble on the wheel well! Goddamn Minnesota Winters! But the truck looks great!

sickness..I can't even begin to imagine what 150db sounds like at 20 hz!

haha heck yea man. its fun doing that. stupid digitalness. never drove an viii before but to be honest l love the looks of the vii. its a mix of old american gangsta car and modern sports car. i dunno theres something about that vii.... as for the system, its pretty much done. got the speakers, got the sub, got most of the wiring, all i need is the amp and some battery terminals lol Oh, I completely agree about the Mark VII's. I love the looks of them. I wanted one for the longest time but I ended up with a 97 Towncar. I still love the TC but i wouldn't mind one of the Mark series Lincolns. Even better is the 66 Continental with the suicide doors! Just out of curiosity, what did you end up picking out for your front stage and sub?

I love the Mark series Lincolns. A buddy of mine had a Mark VII and the top end on it was pretty decent. We took it on a long straight away and the digital speedometer stopped at 85mph but the car kept accelerating and when we ran out of road it took a bit for it to drop below that 85 that the speedometer maxed out at. The mark VII is no match for the Mark VIII though. I drove a buddies Mark 1997 VIII and those things are quick for a luxury car! Same with the Lincoln LS. I drove a v-8 LS with the slap shift and a few engine mods and the big difference between the Marks and the LS is the fact that the LS can handle exceptionally well. But i personally wouldn't be worried about the speed of your Mark. It's not meant to be a sports car. Just a cruiser with some extra balls. I say maybe get exhaust to give it a little more rumble. Besides that, I'd say stick the money into your active system!

lol I have a code for the one in my area, but i don't think that will help you in your part of town!

How would a single Icon 15 or RL-p 15 sound in 3 cubes vented? Would that sound clean? I can do up to 3 cubes. Both would do well in 3.0. Would 3 cubes sound clean and hit nice and low with either and what should it be tuned to? Between 15s which of these would be louder in 3 cubes ported with the power I have? RL-p 15 SSA Icon 15 Fi Audio Q15 Treo SSI 15 I think you would be happy with a Q, however i have only had experience with a Q. From what I have read, the Icon and RL-P are also very capable subs for what you want. I am not familiar enough with Treo to say anything about their speakers or capabilities. Either way you look at it, i think you will get a quality product and great sounding speaker

Here is the current Alpine line up. If you are looking for any of their older lines, you will have to go search through Google or something. http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/s...?category=AV_HU

X2

I am pumped to see this one in progress. My only question is about the ThreeSixty. I have never had any experience with them but from what i have heard they are a phenomenal piece of equipment. What i want to know is how do you make all the adjustments wit hit? Does it interface through a computer?

^^^^^DATA!! whoooooooooooooooooooooooooo ^^^^

I love the Lincolns too. It's all i have ever owned! I love the way the TCs look with the wire wheels. Nice cars to say the least. I still want a 65 Continental black with some some OG wheels with the huge whitewalls or some big wires.

Pictures always help. You should get some videos up when the car is running and tearing ass. I could imagine how well that car could handle and whatnot when set up, I mean the car is like the size of a Lotus. I can only imagine the possibilities.

The more music with higher voltage is all dependent on the amplifiers power supply. Whether it is regulated or unregulated. With a Regulated power supply, the voltage rails will remain the same at 12 or 14 volts, however with a unregulated power supply the voltage rails will vary with the input voltage to the amplifier. More Voltage with the same load will result in higher power. There needs to be any data to prove this, it is a simple fact as to how a power supply works. Sorry John, just wanted to answer this question. But to the OP, I think you can get away with just the big 3, but it doesn't hurt to add a battery. And that's all i have to say here now. lol

so what he's saying is he wants a sub to have a sub with 8 hz of audible bandwidth? Am i confused or completely misreading this?

Just for the record, I HATE fixing anything with SMT. Through hole is the easiest to work with IMHO.

Sounds like you are getting a little excited over this! When do you plan to go through and sound deaden, replace speakers, and install the aftermarket amp, because i want so see this all go down . Also i forgot to ask in one of my previous posts, but do you plan on eliminating the rear fill speakers or are you going to use the HUs time correction and mess with the soundstage that way?

I hate to say it, but pre-fab bandpasses do kind of suck. I have heard a few good BPs, but they were designed around the speaker being used.

I have no data to prove anything as stated before. There are many suggestions made on this forum based on personal experience. That is all that I am basing my suggestion off of, personal experience. Since i have gotten a different battery, I have had higher voltage readings more consistently while running my amp. The OP asked what he could do to help his electrical system if needed, and i suggested a battery instead of a HO Alternator seeing that a battery usually installs much easier than an alternator and usually costs less.

No i do not, do you have data to disprove me? I could simply be misinformed. I am not trying to mislead the OP, just trying to help and put in my two cents.

The deep cycle discharges slower than a conventional battery, however I should have stated that if the alternator is weak, the upgraded battery won't help a whole lot.

How much do you plan to spend on the amplifier? The Alpines Link you gave us says $450? You can pick up a Sundown SAE-1000D from the SSA shop for $400. If you are interested, the SSA shop also offers a bundle with the SAE-1000D with an Icon 12" for around 500. The bundle would be cheaper than the Q and the Alpine amp by lots with similar performance. Just my two cents.

I think you may be able to get away with a stock battery, but I would suggest doing the big 3. The big 3 is upgrading your ground wires (engine block to ground and negative battery terminal to the chassis) and the alternator to battery wire. This was discussed over on CSO the other day so i have a good link for you. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=73496&PN=1 There is some good information on actually doing the big 3 there. You don't have to worry about being a n00b. Everyone has been there and you can only learn by asking questions. Good Luck with the install!