todd.brust

I'll say it again and again, the w7 and anything JL is quality and in many cases worth the money. Like previously posted, With the same power, you aren't going to see much different. They are both good subs with good amounts of output. The only advantage to selling the w7 and getting a Fi is maybe put a couple bucks in your pocket. If you want a change in performance and don't acre about the money, I'd keep the w7. And JL audio has incredible customer service. I may not know the names of the people who work their but they take care of all their customers. I sent in a woofer that was damaged by my ignorance and they repaired it for free, no questions asked within a week and half. Theres some benefits to going through dealers.

Yeah I was looking more in depth at it and the price seemed pretty steep. 300 and even at my cost, still very expensive. I may go the route of cutting some sheet metal and matting that, then rivet it in place so if need be, I can drill out the rivets and still have access to the inner door. I think that may very well be the best route to go in the view of practicality and overall function. The barrier would be worthless if I had to lets say replace a window motor and had to cut it out anyways.

To make a long story short, since I started installing, I have been playing around with a few idea, and I am going to switch up my front stage. I currently have a set of JL XR5x7 coaxial speakers running off a Rockford 800a2 (Way overkill of an amp for a front stage but it leaves a lot of headroom). My buddy is selling off his set of Adire Kodas and I am thinking that would be a good route to go. The plan is to run the Kodas Passive off the Rockford amp and sound deaden my doors. I am thinking of going with some new type of deadener of the outer door skin called Black Hole and Dynamat on the inner door skin and seal everything off. The only problem is there are no good tweeter locations except my A pillars. I know the Koda tweeters are designed to work well in a car off axis, but my main question is where would be a suitable height to mount them? Ear level or a bit above or below? The mids would be mounted up pretty high in the doors also. My main goal is overall good sound quality. No sub as of now and no rear stage. I have a 12" Brahma that I'll eventually run off the 800a2 when i get a nice 4 Channel, but that is my last concern as of now. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated on this. That is the first phase of everything, the second phase will be adding the Brahma in and a 4 channel and running the fronts full active with either a Alpine 9887 or a Rockford 360.2. That is a whole other topic for later. Thanks in advance. Todd

http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_dynaplate.html That's the stuff that I saw on their site. Any comments?

Any suggestions on that one? I was looking at Dyna Barrier. It's made specifically for covering holes and sealing doors. Never seen it used however. Just a thought since I can get a killer deal on that stuff through work.

What would be a good way to seal the doors? I have seen people make cardboard templates then duct tape em in and mat over them. Is this a decent to good idea or should I go heavier on the templates?

I picked up 2 Dynamat door kits at work. On for each door. Oh yeah. I have to wait to put everything in however. My neighbor hit my car in the drive way and now I need body work done, and the includes the front doors so I'll have to wait until its done to proceed with this project I may add the Black hole on top of the Dynamat at a later date also.

Correction, I found a little about the stuff. Not as much as I would want to know. Heres a few links I found. http://estore.websitepros.com/1736754/Detail.bok?no=224 http://www.soniccraft.com/products/damping/blackhole5.htm http://www.speakercity.com/Merchant2/merch...ry_Code=damping The last one gives a good visual of what the stuff is. I couldn't find anything about the 4"x4" squares made for automotive use. The squares were actually coated or laminated with something to protect the foam and whatnot from the moisture inside door panels.

From what our rep told me, the guy who designed it is some acoustic engineer who knows his chit. Can't remember the guys name thought. Besides the 4" squares, they also make the same thing except its in larger sheets and can be applied to the inside of enclosures as an acoustic treatment. I'll try to find out more at work. It'd make things much easier if they had a site showcasing what the stuff is.

I hear ya on that one.

of me? Of getting to snowboard. I haven't been out in 3 years. If it makes you feel better, it's been about the same for me, but I'm not so hot on a snowboard. My love is on as skateboard. Whole different game when a board is attached to my feet. Longboarding is fun too, kind of close to the riding aspect of snowboarding minus the carving. I should bust that out soon and bomb some hills. Nothing like doing 30 on a skateboard

Well I'll have to try the velco then. I should have expected an answer like that. My budy who had them before did the same thing. As for the sound deadeners, I can't find a link for it. Our Focal rep. came to the store a few weeks ago and brought this new sound deadener. IT comes in 4" squares and is a combination of foam and a type of butyl rubber. ITs about an inch thick, maybe an incha and a half. IT is meant for the outter door skin and you are suppose to check these 4" squares. Suppose to be rally cool stuff and its much easier to apply to an outer door skin. As for dynamat, I can get it at cost through my job so it is probably my best value. But I'll try and find some more info on the Black Hole product.

4 am and I'm still up! Might as well do some homework and pull an all nighter.

This thing just keeps getting better and better. Any plans for a finish or is the customer going to leave it bare? Either way, I'd love to have one in my living room.

Thats way too much money. I picked up a Brahma MKII for 20 bucks from the shop I work for a while back. The triple joint failed so I fixed it and now I have a working $20 Brahma. I wouldn't pay much more that $175 and that even seems high to me.

Your work always amazes me, nice looking enclosure to say the least.

I'd go with the Pioneer. That's just my personal opinion. I've worked with that exact Pioneer and its a very good unit to say the least, and it has built in bluetooth which the Eclipse doesn't. A nice hands free kit is a big selling point for me, I don't know about you. The GPS works very well and is pretty easy to use on the Pioneer. Pioneer FTW. And 5v pre outs aren't anything special, you just get to set the gains on an amp lower, or risk damagin equipment.

Those plastic plate adapters aren't the best solution. I have cut masonite for baffles and that worked okay. I might be putting some 6.5" Kodas in my 97 Towncar And i might cut some baffles and dynamat over them. Masonite may not be the best solution but I'd recommend it over the plastic plate adapters.

That's the speaker /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\

Nice pictures to say the least! I also noticed the speaker on th table with the multiple small magnets, kind of like Focal subwoofers. Whats the deal with those?

Very nice work here, can't wait to see this build continue. Oh and that's a nice car to say the least. If only I could afford something on that level

DC kills if the power put out by a battery is greater than the thermal rating of a speaker. You could put a 12V battery on a lot of speakers and never blow it. At a 4 ohm load, a 12VDC battery will only produce only 36 watts.

Ask and you shall receive.

Maybe look on Partsexpress.com They have a bunch of foam kits. I would imagine that one of the kits would be suitable. I'd maybe check the exact diameter of the cone and the inside of the basket to see if one of the kits will fit. It's worth checking at very least.

Lol, well I guess a 21" would have a great deal more displacement than the 18". I mean any speaker with 55mm of Xmax is going to dwarf the competition in terms of displacement.