toolskizm

I'm getting rid of all my car audio to invest in a home audio system. You can check my photobucket account to see images of all items. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Photobucket album: Audio for Sale Alpine PDX4.100--250$ Product Description 4-channel car amplifier 100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (100 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) 200 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode) CEA-2006 compliant Stackable installation design with front-panel controls Variable high- and low-pass filters (30-400 Hz, 12 dB/octave) Quick-connect speaker connectors Class-D amplifier design MOSFET power and output stages Fuse rating: 30A x 2 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended wiring and hardware not included with amplifier Dimensions: (WHD) 10-3/16 x 2-1/2 x 8-1/2 Sundown SAZ-1000D 250$ Technical Details • 1000W Digital Class-D Linkable Mono Block Amplifier • Double Sided Through Hole Epoxy PCB • 1 Ohm Stability • Efficiency : 86% @ 4 ohm, at 100Hz • Multi-Way Protection Circuitry (Thermal/Over Current/Speaker Short/Speaker DC Protection) The SAZ-1000D is our most compact Class-D amplifier and can fit almost anywhere! Don't let the small size fool you as this amplifier packs 1000-watts RMS into a tiny package only 11.5 inches long. * Digital Class-D Linkable Mono Block Amplifier * Double Sided Through Hole Epoxy PCB * 1 Ohm Stability * Efficiency : 86% @ 4 ohm, at 100Hz * 24dB/Oct Variable Crossover * Multi-Way Protection Circuitry (Thermal/Over Current/Speaker Short/Speaker DC Protection) * RCA Line Input and Master Output * 24dB Octave Crossover Slope * Variable Subsonic Filter * Variable Bass Boost * Variable Low Pass Filter * Variable Phase Shift * Four(4) Gauge Power Supply Connectors * Tested Voltage & THD : 14.4V & Less than 1% THD * Operating Voltage : DC 10V~16V * Wired Remote Controller RMS power, 2 ohm linkable/dual mono 1800W x 1CH RMS power, 1 ohm mono 1000W x 1CH RMS power, 2 ohm mono 600W x 1CH RMS power, 4 ohm mono 300W x 1CH Signal to Noise Ratio >90dB Low pass frequency crossover 35Hz~300Hz Subsonic filter 10Hz~60Hz Bass boost @ 45Hz 0~18dB Phase shift control 0~180 degree Frequency response 10Hz~350Hz (+/- 1dB) T.H.D @ 4 ohm <0.1% Efficiency @ 4 ohm 86% Fuse rating 25A x 3 Input Sensitivity 200mV to 6V (+/- 5%) Dimensions 252(W) x 58(H) x 294(L)mm FI SSD 10" 2ohm DVC Fully loaded in 2010 150$ Focal Polyglass 6.5" Coaxial 2-Way Speakers, Model 165CVX $150 Features: • 2-way 6-1/2" speakers (pair) • Polyglass woofer with butyl rubber surround • Rotating aluminum inverted dome tweeter • Non-resonant ABS/glass fiber basket • Built-in 12 dB/octave crossover • Grilles included • 2-70 watts RMS power range (140 watts peak) • Frequency response: 60-20,000 Hz • Sensitivity: 93 dB Focal K2 Power 165 KF 2-way 6.5" Component 350$ Speaker Specifications: • 6-1/2" K2 Power Series 2-way component system • Power Handling: ◦ Peak: 320 watts per set / 160 watts each side ◦ RMS: 160 watts per set / 80 watts each side • 6.5" Composite Sandwich cone • Butyl Rubber surround type • Adjustable tweeter level • Separate crossovers 12/18 dB/octaves • 4 ohms impedance • 1" (25mm) voice coil • 3-1/3" (85mm) Neodyme Magnet • Top-mount depth: 2.80" (70mm) - Comes with TN51 Focal Utopia Tweeter Focal Polyglass 6.5" Component (No tweeters, Focal Utopia Crossovers) 80$

Well, I got everything in. The sub looks great and everything is working. It's looking like I'm going to have to modify the box though. The SSD is 6.0" mounting depth. This box shows a max of 6.5". Now, whether or not they're giving a little room from the bottom of the magnet to the bottom of the box, I'm not sure yet. But I'd like to know, what is the closest the bottom of the magnet can be to the bottom of the box? Is .25" too little? I've just never had this problem before... Any info? I'd like to mod the box tomorrow if need be.

I just had my highs and mids installed in the truck and now need a little low end. After getting my first pair of Q's from Fi, I'm a dedicated customer. BTW, they are still going strong, now in my cousin's Explorer. Anyway, my current setup is as follows: 2 Focal 165 KF 2 Focal 165CVX JL 450/4 I'm looking to get something that I can hide under the back seat. Here's what I was thinking: 1 10" SSD RF T500-1bd in this pre-fabbed box CRB07-110/112 LINK: http://www.subthump.com/crb07.htm it's the one at the bottom of the page One concern, magnets must be no more than 6.25" in diameter...will that be an issue with the SSD? I'm a firm believer in building my own boxes, but when it comes to something like this I'm not necessarily going for the loudest on the planet. For the price, I don't even see a point in getting the wood tools out. Now, I see the specs on the box aren't exact to that of the SSD. I'm sure it would still work, but I'd like you guy's opinion. Any other box recommendations? Also, the amp is a significant amount less than the SSD RMS but do you think it will move the sub? From what I understand those amps are underrated. If not, suggestions on another amp around the same Ebay price would be much appreciated. Anyway any input on the setup would be great.

After reading a review on the SSD, I ended up gettin a SAZ-1000D from the SSA Shop. So there you go denim lol. I've heard nothing but good things about Sundown, so I'm excited to see how it works. Also, went with 10" SSD with BP and Copper Coil. Everything should be in in like a week or something. Can't wait to hear it!

Thanks for the input phi. I think I may go that route. That actually is the volume minus the sub displacement. And yes, I'm going for SQ...as I said, just want the low ends in the truck, the 6.5's just dont get low enough. I didn't even think about the bracing in the box...unnecessary really, but would def take away some of the volume if it sounds bad. Think I'll go with that amp too I just wanted a lil budget focused system this time...can't go all out and there's other things I want to do to the truck. Thanks again for the input. I'll keep you guys posted once I get it all together.

My amp budget is around $300. Any suggestions denim? I'm not familiar with the amps on the SSA shop. Sundown is about all I know, but I'm not sure I need 1000 watts. And the box deal, it would be .81 cu ft. sealed. when the SSD is recommended for .6 max. I'm not sure how much that would effect the sound. Main reason for going with the prefab is time...I don't necessarily have alot of it. But, if it significantly effects the sound of the sub, I'd rather find the time and build my own to the Fi specs. To stay in the specs and not have to build a box, I thought about maybe just a single SSD 12. But I've personally never heard a single 12 sealed setup...

Thanks man. Any input on this setup?

Is anyone familiar with any good installers in the North Houston area? Anyone but CarToys...bad experience with them. I'm not finding many guides on taking this truck apart and depending on price, I'd almost rather pay someone else to do it.

I just got a 09 crew cab 1500 chevy silverado. I currently have quite a bit of equipment from my old builds, but none will really fit in the truck. It's all 6.5" speakers in the doors and tweets up front in the a-pillar. I'll probably be selling some of my stuff to pick up speakers that will fit. I have had nothing but good come from focal, so I was thinking of staying with them. I was thinking of going either with the Access or Polyglass lines. The K2's get a bit expensive and Utopia is out of the question. Also, what is your advice on running them from the HU (Alpine IVA-W200). I'm leaning towards it probably won't be worthwhile and likely get an amp... I have a JL 450/4 that is like brand new...had it for about 2-3 months. It's a great amp, but really big and I would like to keep the most space I can in the truck, so I was considering one of the Alpine digital amps. Anyone have input on these amps? Also, any suggestions on speakers. I know focal is good and liked them in the past, but I'm open to any new suggestions along the same line of quality. I'll most likely be selling the JL 450/4 along with some 130KP Focals and 690 CA1 Focals. Also have a mixed set of Focal 6.5" (the mids are from 165v2 i believe, tweeters are from the older Utopia, and the Crossover are from that same utopia set....the actual Utopia mids got messed up in a car accident). And I have a JL 450/4 that is damaged, not sure what's wrong with it, but it won't output sound. Anyway, any input is appreciated!

Thanks for the input guys. The sets I have now are 5.25", 6x9, and 6.5". I'd really just rather getting new sets and matching them as close as I can. Like access line, get component 6.5 and coax 6.5. And KU40, I agree with you on the amp deal...I was going to try and avoid all the wiring, but I think in the long run it will just save time instead of taking stuff apart twice when I do decide to put a amp, so I may as well do it from the get go. dbjunior, my budget is around 150-250 for each pair. 200 is ideal. As for the sub, I really don't want to mess with that right now. In the near future, it's highly possible I'll decide to pick up an Fi. One of the lower end models. I had the Q's and did the big sub thing, but it's just too much of a hassle for me now. I just want a good sounding system, don't need to blow the doors off. bigjon, I had actually started a thread somewhere on the forums about the JL. It was working, but one day just shut off along with my HU and everything and it smelt like burnt electronics. Not sure what happened, I just bought another one because I haven't had much luck with amp repair shops in the past...more of a hassle than anything. Thanks for the suggestion though.

As always, I appreciate the responses guys. M5, I see where you're coming from. I've never heard the PDX amps and size really isn't an issue (95 camry with pretty nice size trunk). It just seemed to fit the criteria I needed for the highs and mids. Ask for sound quality versus the JL...I'd like to hear the Alpine. The JL was a great amp and I have no complaints, but the same goes for the Sundown...although that route I'd probably have to go from word of mouth. I likely will take a look at the JL when I get a chance...have a broken arm at the moment, so I can't really do much. But, after I open it up, if I plan to sell it, I'll let you know. M5, you say the Sundown can replace the JL...I see you have the same amp, in my position would you scoop up another JL/get it fixed or go for the Sundown (considering the highs/mids involved)?

I have a JL 450/4 that was quite a good amp, but the other day two channels burned up and now only two work. I'm not sure if I should run with this amp again or try something different and possibly better. I was thinking of putting in a single FI Q 12" in a ported box with a Sundown SAE-1000D. I've never used their amps before, but they seem to be well respected. My setup currently is as follows: HU: Alpine IVA-W200 Front: Focal Utopia 6.5" (older model) Rear: Focal 690 CA1 (6x9) I looked at the Sundown 100.4, but I'm not so sure the output will be enough. The JL put out more and the speakers handled it fine and sounded good. I'm just looking for a possible alternative. Not very knowledgeable on how good Sundown's 4 channels are, not to mention the MSRP is more then the JL 450/4. Other suggestions are definitely welcome. I'd like to keep the 4channel price around 400$ being that's what I can get the JL for (V1 series). EDIT: Any info on the Alpine PDX amps? The design is nice and the PDX-4.150 looks like it would fit nice with my setup...never owned an Alpine amp. If it's anything like their decks, I would be happy.

I'm not really sure what happened with it. It was great when I first got it (about 2 years ago). I had it under a false floor in an Acura and a guy had dropped a set of weights on top of the floor. Ever since then, the RCA acted funny like they wouldn't always catch the signal...I had to zip tie the RCA together so they wouldn't cut out. I had it checked at a shop in Austin but they said there was nothing wrong. Aside from that, I think the amp was fine. I was driving to Louisiana the other day with the HU on 23/30 which is normal for me and next thing I knew everything shut off (including the HU). I turned it back on and only the rear speakers were working and I could smell burnt electronics. So what happened exactly...I'm not sure. I respect your opinion M5, so how do you feel about the Alpine PDX amps? or do you have an opinion on them?

Just curious if there's a reason the Fi Q series isn't showing up on the website...Either way, could someone possibly give me the specs on the 12" sub. I need the detailed specs so I can input the sub on WinISD to attempt a box design.

Ok, thanks for the info. Is there a way i can get the detailed info on the Q12 with Bp power? Or would I be ok putting the SSD 12 info into WinISD? for example: Fs: 27.0 Hz | 26.3 Hz Re: 0.75 Ohms/coil | 1.5 Ohms/coil Qms: 4.60 | 4.71 Qes: .52 | .49 Qts: .47 | .44 Mms: 192g | 201g Cms: 0.18mm/N | 0.18mm/N Sd: 480cm^2 | 480cm^2 Vas: 58.7 l | 58.7 l Spl: 85.3dB 1W/1m | 85.3dB 1W/1m Bl: 9.3 N/A | 14.1 N/A Xmax: 21mm Rms: 800W Sealed box: .8-1.6 cuft Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 33Hz Sub OD: 12.500

Thanks alot Scott. I have nothing but good things to say about you and the way you do business. I'll send as many customers your way as I can.

I recently totaled my car, so I'm selling the system to my cousin. He has an Explorer and where they're from, loud is the only thing that matters. Anyway, he's been entering in comps with two JL 12w6 on a old punch 500(or somethin like that, not sure the model). I have two FI Q 12 with Bp power I'm selling him, along with a Rockford Fosgate T20001BD. Size is not really a problem...he has the entire back of the explorer to fill if necessary. I'm just looking for a big box or whatever will get the job done to throw up big numbers and still sound decent. He said he put up like a 141 Outlaw with the JL's. If that's right, gotta put that to shame to show everybody whats up with Fi. Anyway, some design ideas/dimensions would greatly be appreciated. I'm sure someone has ran two 12 q's before on here..and if not someone likely knows a good design. Any help is greatly appreciated.

My system was finally working right all together. I was on my way to my apartment (3 hr drive), so I had turned the bass really low so it wouldn't knock my radar detector off the glass. I was just driving along and heard a loud bass hit all of a sudden. It was really weird, kuz the bass was pretty much to where I couldn't even hear it and I guess I didn't notice kuz i had turned it down alot. So the bass hit really hard, then stopped. It did this about 2-3 times, just really odd sounds and extremely loud...like not going with the music that was playing and far far louder than I had the bass turned up. Anyway, I got home to check it out. I can turn the subwoofers OFF on the headunit and STILL get some sort of signal. The subs will move rrrrreally slow on their own, no music or anything. I can even unhook the RCA's and the subs will STILL move. The only way to make them stop is to unhook the power from the amp. I had even tried hooking up my pc to the amp, but I get the same problem. I can also have NO music playing and even the RCA's unhooked (only speaker wire, ground, power, and remote) and the subs will make a really ugly sweeping noise. They're just doing this on their own and like bottoming out. I have NO clue, wut this is and any input would be really appreciated. I'm to the point, if it's a big deal...I'm just goin to sell everything. My car just doesnt like this system for some reason lol. I looked at all the fuses I could possibly. Only one I didnt get to check well is the one on the RF. I don't know if this would be what happens though...I've never had a fuse blow on a system, so I wasn't going to go through much trouble to see if these aren't the symptoms of a blown fuse. 2 Fi Q 12 RF T20001BD 2 Focal Utopia 6.5" 2 Focal Polyglass 6.5" JL 450/4 Alpine IVA-W200 if you need other info, just lemme know.

I actually had the ground sort of redone when I took it to the shop not too long ago. I have an optima in the rear...it's only about 1-2 feet from the amps. The RF is grounded to a sanded spot about 1 ft away where the JL and the Optima is also grounded. But yeah, I can try that. One thing I left out was the RF amps (this is the second one I have, even though there was nothing wrong with the first..long story) is when I turn the car on, there's a very audible pop that comes from the subs. It's always done this for some reason. I'm not sure the cause of this, and it's never happened before in any other setup I've had.

haha sweeeet, that's the only thing I was coming up with too. It was a refurb...but that's lame if it's the case.

I'm running a T20001bd on 2 12" Fi Q ported in my RSX. I can never have enough bass, but gotta say it's pretty damn loud. The amp is a beast.

Ok, thanks for the help and input guys.

Currently my setup is as follows: Acura RSX HU: Alpine IVA-W200 Front: Focal Utopia 6.5" and tweets Rear: Focal Polyglass 6.5" Highs Amp: JL 450/4 Subs: 2 Fi Q12" Sub Amp: RF T20001BD I've never tried hooking up 3 sets of components in a vehicle before as I normally have enough with two sets. I was thinking of putting some kick panels in and using the Focal K2 5.25" components I have sitting in my closet. Is there any way I could hook this up without another amp? If not possible, think I would be ok just removing my rear fill and using that channel on the amp for the K2's? Or would that be like too much just coming from the front and only bass in the back...I don't know what it would sound like, I've never heard someone's setup like that before, but alot of people on the RSX forum seem to not bother with a "rearfill".

Yeah, well I don't plan on buying anything else if I don't have to. I just have these Focals lying in my closet. Anyhow, that's not the point I want to know if it's possible to do this and how so. And if it matters if I have rear fill or not.

I just think it could be louder. It would def. help when the bass gets loud...they get pretty crazy in the box and the hatch and kinda outdo the front speakers.