toolskizm

I decided to change the box design to something simpler. If someone could help me out in the design that would be awesome. I don't have a program for the tuning of the port and all the info on it. I can supply the biggest dimensions that I can have in the car. These are external dimensions: 40x14x23 Here's a pic of how I plan to have it in the car...both subs and ports firing up. I want to get in between 2.5 and 2.25 cubes ported to 32Hz. I'm putting two Q 12's in it...so the displacement is .16 per sub. And the box will have a divider. If someone can help me out on the port info that would be awesome. The only number that can be played with is the depth (23"). The rest must stay as they are.

I just ordered my 2 12's with BP power option...just for good measure. I'm gonna have a T20001bd on em. I want to port em. How do you think 1.8 cubes ported to 32Hz for each sub would sound? Do I need to push for 2 cubes? I don't have much room in my car...but here's a pic of the trunk space I have with my previous setup. That was just 2 JL 10w3v3's I'm thinking of running the boxes along the side where the old ones were. So how would 1.8 sound? Still jam the subs hard, or do I need to go for 2 cubes or even more? More than 2 would be pretty tough, but I wanna build the fiberglass boxes once...gonna be alot of work.

that fine diagram shows you how it'll be setup. As you can see..that cubic figure is the port going along the wheel well.

Well, the thing is the box is gonna be oddly shaped. Actually, the two boxes will be different sizes because of the wheel wells in the car are different on both sides. Without the port I was looking at 2.88 cu ft on the left side...3.32 on the right (of course I would make these the same size...which would prob end up being 2.88). These are including sub displacement, but NOT port displacement (kuz I dont know how big it has to be) The port area...I'm not sure. The port will be along side the wheel well I guess. So, that side is 9" high. Length, I can go about 14"? maybe more maybe less by an inch. I can play with that number, but it depends on what I need. ..idk, did that help?

does anyone know wut my port volume would be if I'm going for 2 cubes ported to 32Hz?

they have a isolator in between em.

I just ordered a Fosgate T20001BD, 2 Fi Q 12's w/ Bp Power option, I have a JL 450/4 which will power a set of 6.5" Focal Utopias and a set of 6.5" Focal Polyglass. As of now I have the stock alternator (2006 RSX) which is small..not sure exactly what it is. I have a regular batt in the front which has 2 4gauge wires runnin to the back. There's a 100amp fuse on each 4 gauge. These two 4 gauges run to a Optima Yellow Top in the back the car. This is where the two amps will be. Does the wiring seem sufficient for what will be in the car? And the fuses?...I may need to get a high output alt. for the car kuz of dimming...

if it's only one sub, get dual 2 ohm and run it in parallel

What about amps? You have any suggestions? I would love to use the T20001BD, but I'm still not 100% sure it will fit in my car. I'm looking to spend 600$ ebay price. So suggestion on a real quality amp that can output the same as the RF...I'm up for opinions.

btw, to give a little more info. I have a JL 450/4 powering my highs and mids. As of now I have 2 5.25" focal polykevlar in the front and two Utopia 6.5" in the back. My plan is to move my Utopias to the front and put some Focal Polyglass 6.5" in the back. I also have a Yellowtop in the trunk (which is what will make it hard to put a 450/4, T20001BD, and battery under the false floor). I plan to dynamat extreme as well.