Mike1234

I'm in the market for 4 new 15-18" subwoofers for HT and music. SQ is my major concern. SPL is important too but only if SQ is not compromised. Of those listed in the title which would you recommend and why? These will either be in sealed boxes with a Q of .5-.6 or mounted in IB manifolds. In either case they'll be crossed and EQed digitally so driver Q doesn't really matter. Efficiency doesn't matter either because brute power is fairly cheap these days. BTW, the Audiopulse is on a one day sale for $348 at PE and the AE AV15's are on their last day pre-order price of $219. So... I need help TODAY!! Feel free to make other suggestions but please explain your reasoning.

Robert: Thanks for the info. For IB I don't think Qts is terribly important provided I keep it below .7, Fs is fine as long as it's below 25. The most important thing is finding those with strong linear motors with low distortion. I'm using a BFD to smooth the response and EP2500's to power them. M5: You're right about that but, as per above, I think it'll be okay. Frito: I'll research the RS390 a bit more. I don't intend to overdrive these subs so perhaps the tin can pop won't be an issue. Oh... and don't smoke your sub. Just buy another one for eardrum popping output, heh, heh. You gouys rock!!

The Dayton RS390HF is definitely a welcome option. I've heard many good things about them. However, I've also heard that their cones can pop like a tin can if driven hard. That worries me. I'm sure I can build a box strong enough to handle the Axis. A TL, eh? Can you post a pick or link? TL's do intrigue me but I'd probably take the easy route and use reinforced Sonotube.

I'm not yet sure whether these will be Infinite Baffle (mounted in manifolds with rear acoustic output vented into the attic) or large sealed boxes. I prefer IB but the layout of my living room may make this impossible. Most likely two pairs will be corner loaded (facing the corners) in the back of the room. A pair of 18's will be located centrally between the mains. Each pair will have one driver facing inward and the other outward to cancel motor nonlinearities (a type of distortion). This is not isobaric (face-to-face) mounted but rather they'll be in separate chambers so I don't lose total SPL capablities. EDIT: And I WANT my walls to rattle!! :-)

Yes... HT= Home Theater. Sorry for the confusion. I forget that not all forums always share the same acronyms.

I'm more concerned about SQ than anything else. Max SPL, power handling, efficiency, etc., are all secondary concerns... though they are concerns.

Acoustic Elegance Audio here... http://www.aespeakers.com/

I had a pair of Electrovoice Patricians with their 30W woofers. They had very minimal X-max but they still moved enough air to crack a window in my house. Of course, one was facing the window about 18 inches away

No offense taken. But I sure don't know what he can buy for that price that will sound as good.

I MIGHT sell these for $300 each shipped. I'm weighing my offers... http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...c=11298&hl=

Thanks, I'll try again!!

I can't say yet. I'm not trying to blow you off. I'm just waiting for the mods to let me list them... I don't want to break forum rules. Suffice it to say that these will make someone very happy.

Please remain patient until the mods allow me to sell my subs here

I wish I could but I don't want to break forum rules. Please be patient until the mods let me sell my subs here.

MODS... I REALY wish I could post in the classified section. I can sell one or two very big smiles

I wish I could post in the classified section but I'm too new here. I could make someone very happy

I wish I could post in the classified section but I'm too new here. I could make someone very happy

Right-click the file, select "Open With" from the pop-up menu, select "Coose Program", scroll through the pop-up window and select the application you want that type of file to open with, click the radio button labled "Always use the selected program to open this type of file", click "Okay". This is Windows XP but they're all about the same... maybe not Vista, which I have never used... or Mac OSx either.

Did you ever build your TL? You can decrease the length of your tube by building a concentric design... a smaller tube inside a larger one. The sub mounts to one end of the smaller tube and the smaller tube is inserted centered in the larger tube, which is capped off at the far end. The open end of the smaller tube is held away from the capped end of the larger tube with stand-offs. This creates a 180 degree bend through which the sound travels and reverses direction traveling back through the larger tube. This design cuts the length of the tube(s) in half. However, you must use the right size tubes or tuning will be impossible. If you really wanted to shorted the length, you could use three tubes. Of course, choosing the right sizes becomes more complicated. It's just another option.

Did you ever find a suitable subwoofer amp? How about a Behringer EP2500? These can be found on-line for $300 shipped. They pump out a very clean 850x2 (rated at 1200x2) into 2 Ohms. They'll run all day at 850x2.

That 60" subwoofer was built for a publicity stunt... and it worked quite well... as a publicity stunt ;-)

Are your OS and media players up-to-date? If not, try updating.

Not intending to argue but, depending on the size of his other drivers, he may cross them as high as 120Hz. This is directional even in a car. Yes, it would be silly to cross subs at different frequencies... not what I said :-) Lol subs in stereo. That's pretty funny. Again, like Jim said.. not in a vehicle. What do you mean by crossover point? It'd be pretty silly to cross each sub of the same type over differently. And source material? Do you know anyone that has 11.2 surround in their car? Because I sure don't. There are few theatres that even use it. 5.1 = mono sub(s).