Mike1234

It depends on the x-over point and the source material =-) Lol subs in stereo. That's pretty funny.

MODS... if this post is inappropriate, please feel free to delete it. As the topic says... I "MIGHT" sell 2 NIB Ascendant Audio Avalanche 18" subs. Is there any interest? What are these worth right now? Again though... I CANNOT sell these yet because I am a new member.

I've been looking on the Crutchfield website and I'm up to US$2200 with just the head unit, processor and navigation with none of the other add-ons. It looks like the Alpine setup will cost closer to US$3000

I've been out of car audio for a long time and I need some help choosing new components. I already have speakers, subs and amps so this is just for source components and processors. I'm looking for affordable but nice-sounding products. The one thing I absolutely don't want is harsh-sounding electronics. I want a H/U with CD, DVD, FM, HD radio, and digital output. The only thing that must be built into the face is CD. For the sake of economy, the H/U doesn't need a built-in screen but, if it does, I want a touch screen with nice controls. The DVD is actually a future upgrade (maybe) and will have a larger separate screen. I prefer that the H/U not have built-in amps but this isn't that important. I only have room for a single DIN but my trunk has plenty of space. Built-in navigation is not a must but would be a valuable addition. I don't care about i-Pod. Also, is BlueTooth an important addition? Does it save on having to run wiring? If so, how does this affect sound quality? The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. Here is one possible solution: Pioneer DVH-P5000MP, DEQ-P8000, and the add-ons. Of course, this one doesn't have built-in nav. AND... these are sort of pricey.

Thanks guys!! I'll research the Alpine products. Does anyone know who has the best prices and service for Alpine stuff?

No I don't have 20 posts yet. I was just gauging interest in these since I'm not sure if I want to sell them. I'm sorry if I erred.

Oops... I missed the fact that he already has his subs. Yes, these are excellent drivers in small sealed boxes. I have two of them in my HT setup.

What about a pair of Peerless 830500 XLS 12's? These work in very small boxes and SQ and output are excellent. They cost $191 each, shipping included at PE.

What about two HQ 8" subs? You can run them in stereo.

Car PC is a possibility though I've heard that the Mini Mac is an easier/cheaper way to go. I don't necessarily need a screen built into the head unit. A 7" screen is too small for viewing movies, IMO. For navigation and control, it's fine though... actually preferable if it doesn't drive the total cost too high. I could mount a 10" touch screen and use it to control a changer in lieu of installing a head unit. The only reason I even mentioned DVD is so I can upgrade later if I decide to... I'm just leaving my options open. This way, all I would need to do is add a screen... probably 10" or so and only for passengers. Of course, that's if I don't opt for an on-dash 10" touch screen for control, which would double as the movie screen. I do want digital out to a dedicated processor with digital parametric EQ and time alignment... automated is a plus. Howver, I don't care about surround sound in the car and I don't like synthetic sound effects... nothing wrong with it but it's just not my cup of tea.

Thanks dogster. I'll look into the Alpine gear.

Understood... I divorced mine years ago for very naughty behavior. Life is S-S-O-O-O much easier now =) You're welcome to adapt the recipe as it suits your tastes. My [much older than 25]-year old wife finds that this dish disagrees with her.

Not to damp or dampen your fun but you might receive some complaints if your system is too loud. Also, this advertises to thieves just as playing a car stereo loudly near where you live. No criticism intended...

You missed one very important ingredient. Where is the twenty-five-year-old girlfriend?!

I've been considering TL's as well. The design I like uses two subs per tube mounted in small boxes with the tube firing upward. The subs are mounted on opposing sides face-to-back and wired out of phase. This effectively cancels non-linearities of the drivers. For eight inch drivers, a ten inch ID tube is probably about right... either PVC or Sonotube. The one thing I would change (or rather add) is an aperiodic matt at the face of each driver. For eight inch subs, this is accomplished by sandwiching damping material between eight and ten inch fine mesh grills. This lowers Fs and dampens driver ring. BTW, this works with IB subs as well. Assuming a final Fs of 20Hz, a good "starting point" regarding tube length is fourteen feet. I hope you have a tall ceiling =) Another option is to use two or three concentric tubes, which will decrease overall length fifty to sixty-seven percent. This complicates the design since you have to calculate effective tube volume by subtracting the volume of the smaller inner tube(s) from the larger outer tube(s).