hayes55987

no one will know you can give us as many specs as possible about box/car/etc but even though it still won't be accurate we can at best just give you a guess. But things change. Positioning of the mic, how sealed the box is, positioning of the box, etc

The BTL is just not the kind of sub that you will be porting to so that you can even out your car frequency response or try to make it as flat as possible. If you want it to be loud lower, you build it to the recommended size and port lower. If you want it to sound louder higher notes, you build it to recommended size and port higher. If you're not sure if the BTL is right for you or not, then chances may be that you're into something a bit above your needs. If you are trying to make it into a burp sub and want to know where to peak it, just ask around for some advice but the T/S specs really still won't do you that much good here either.

is this for the red surround ones? or the newer model? looks very nice!!

just gonna save you all the other posts that say "no way to tell" we need some dimensions in either possible box size or in possible cu. ft you can put in that thing pull out the tape measure and get some figures!

If you have a BTL coming to you then the answer is easy keep that thing ported! sealed would be a waste of a subwoofer and of its output. Follow the reccomendations that Fi has set and you will be more then happy!

I'm not sure about the free air idea, but Q's and low end go hand in hand with the best of them. the biggest factor for this I guess is sealed or ported?

hey guys, was browsing through the forums and found this and forgot I had started this post lol. I'll keep you updated and maybe you can rule things out! This so far are: Took it in to the honda dealership and they test drove it and said it may be a heat shield problem. So they removed that and in the process of that realized that when I got a new muffler installed at another place that instead of a new stock exhaust it was an aftermarket one. So I think my next stop is to take it in there and have em look it over. Timing belt was rechecked and they said it looked perfect.

Hey guys, I don't really get into car forums much, so I figured i'd post in here and see if you could figure something out or gimme a starting point! I'm having some "road noise" issues if you'd call them that. I'll give you the breakdown: CAR: 1995 Honda Accord EX Sedan PROBLEM: Around 2500 RPM's, I can "feel" the engine beneath my seat(the drivers) and its sort of like a buzzing/vibrating noise or feeling. Its like the engine accelerates smooth, but then as as soon as it hits that spot(2500 RPM), it feels really rough, then gets back to smooth at like 2800 RPM maybe, around there. Its in accelerating/decreasing. I can't remember now, but I think if I"m in park and rev the engine I don't feel it... but I'll have to check that out and get back to you. But for now I think it only happens when im in gear. POSSIBLE PROBLEMS(Things i've researched on the internet my own): Timing belt is to tight Heat shield bolts are beginning to come loose or it rattles Those are about the two main ones I found. Anyone else have any other ideas??? I can't really take a engine noise video cause I dont have a camera right now. But hopefully i've described it well enough. I did get a new muffler on the car when I first got it, but I never drove it really to hear if that noise was present.

I"d say sundown it up! either sub you can't lose, but the sundown has the beauty of first off, being a bit different from others and suprising people! and secondly, great warranty and great customer service. just be careful with the gains as this amp's full of power

i'm no expert, but if my memory serves me right those HU's have some pretty good processing power for active components and the JL 300/4 is a perfect amp to drive them. I dont know any good components off hand, but i think you are in prime spot to be building an active system over a passive. Hopefully some of the experts will chime in with some good options to look at! Any personal listening preferences? like...soft tweeters, lots of midbass, things like that

If you're looking to get some power @ 2 ohms then I'd definetely agree with shizzon. The stetsom would be plenty to much overkill and 2 ohms is a perfect amount for strapping some amps. I think the stetsom is maybe around....1500 dollars, where as the AQ's would be a good deal with the right amount of power for a cheaper deal. How many subs are you running?? Or what are you trying to run?

I don't know to much about it, but mainly that its a big time SPL amp. They come in....12V and 16V options I believe and the older ones you could mod pretty heavy. I guess the newer models aren't that bad off and don't need to be moded that badly and can crank out maybe 9kW @ 18V's. They're pretty beefy amps that can run some low low ohms. They're cheap power. Are you looking at getting one? Other amps up in that range I think i've seen used are the cactus sounds, atomic amps, Kicker is supposed to have its amp coming out who knows when, and the IA 40.1's.

Hey guys! got a bit of a scenario I'm hoping you can help me with. In about august every year we have a local competition that we compete in and every year we've won our class. Typically every year i buy a new sub and try to beat our old score and so on and so on. Last year I used an 18" BL with D1 coils. I ran it off my JBL BP amp and things weren't to bad. Recently though i've acquired a Sundown and am very happy to be using it to its full potential. Problem #1, the BP puts out max power @ 2 ohms and the sundown puts it out @ 1 ohms and my BL is either a .5 ohm or 2 ohm subwoofer. (its not universal) This got me thinking though and this is where I am hoping to get some input! I've been very interested in the nightshade for both a daily driver and a suitable SPL driver that fits my 1500D perfectly. For the SPL competition alone (2 runs of 30 seconds a piece), what sub would be more suitable? A 15" Nightshade being run off the Sundown 1500D @ 1 ohm An 18" Loaded BL being run off the JBL BP 1200.1 being given around 1200 watts OR the sundown being run @ .5 ohms The whole running the sundown @ .5 ohm is one idea I toyed with for the competition seeing as itd be maybe 5 minutes of playing time maximum off of two batteries and a good size alternator. I don't think there'd be that much reason for concern with it. Installation: The vehicle used would be big enough to give both subs optimal space required and things like that. mainly its the difference of subs and which would get louder in your opinion based off the equipment i have.

well currently we're still debating about what car it will be used in as we have had a few switches in the past months. the last cars resonance freq. was about 41 Hz and we had guessed more in the 47's and we were way off haha so we haven't had any box designs yet or anything drawn up until we figure out what car we'll be using and the size we can fit in it. My daily driver box is tuned o about 35Hz i believe for it though in a...5.5 cu ft box or so

hmm...so maybe keep the BL and run it off .5 ohms and that should be about the best set-up I can do other then buying like a BTL or something along those lines?

hmm.... so I guess that would narrow the ideas down to this then: 18" BL running @ .5 ohms off of the 1500D vs. 15" Nightshade running @ 1 ohm off the 1500D I realize the BL both wins in size, effeciency, power, etc, but i've seen some pretty amazing number from the nightshade so I am not quite sure yet. Also...another idea I was toying with, maybe a better idea for the nightshade would be: Dual 1 ohm 15" Nightshade. Run it @ .5 ohms for a competition and then I could run it @ 2 ohms for a daily driving system . I saw some people running them sealed even and 1000 watts would be plenty of power still for my needs. So I guess in conclusion: 18" BL running @ .5 ohms off of the 1500D vs. 15" Nightshade running @ 1 ohm off the 1500D vs. 15" Nightshade running @ .5ohm off 1500D

pretty easy way to explain it. The "1 & 2" number's indicate the resistance of the voice coil and the "dual" part means that the sub has two of them. Buy a dual 1 sub, you can wire it to .5 ohms or 2 ohms Buy a dual 2 sub, you can wire it to 1 ohms or 4 ohms. As for what amp you can buy, that depends on your budget. Most amps will put out maximum power at 1 ohms (so you'd buy a dual 2 ohm sub woofer), but some amps like kicker and some of the JBL's I believe and a few other brands that you might see recommended put out maximum power at 2 ohms. Just depends on the budget. So decide on your amp you would like to get from your budget, then pick the voice coil configuration.

I don't wanna put this thread off into a different topic or anything, but this seems like a pretty simple question and I guess I just really need a confirmation. So if I have a 1500D and I want to get the loudest possible noise out of Fi's line-up and could pick any one of them and use them all to optimal box sizes lets say, I would pick the BTL to achieve the "loudest" sound??

Hey guys, so I'm thinking of making the switch to a no sub set-up for awhile at least because the room in the trunk would be nice and I am starting to go away from that whole rap/bass phase. Currently, I just have a layer or two of eDead in my doors that are pretty solid on the actual door metal, but I am sure I am lacking covering up the larger holes. My question is what can I do or what would be my best bet for setting up a good deadening scheme. I've heard to maybe get some quality deadener (second skin or raammat?) and maybe some ensolite, but if I could hear it some more in detail or some tips that'd be great. To know what I'm dealing with, my set-up is this: Adire Koda's 6.5" Components with the 6.5" in the stock location and the tweeter mounted a foot or two above it in the door panel. They are powered passively off a Rockford 800a2 getting...200rms each. Approximately 100rms over what's recommended Currently I have the HPF set at maybe...50-60Hz or somewhere around there and my sub plays everything below. So my questions are I guess what can I do to be getting the most midbass out, and secondly, how much midbass would you guys be thinking I should be getting? Like pound in your chest midbass? Or just make the mirror vibrate a little and feeling it at my calves? Gimme an idea of what to do! The eDead didn't really do a noticeable difference.

with 500 watts I would not run a BTL...I would run an SSD Thats why they have different RMS ratings. I would even venture so far as to say with 500 watts the SSD would get louder then the BTL due to the way the sub woofers are intended to be used.

I'm confused...the BTL does need power...I mean you can run it at 500 watts but I don't see why you'd buy the BTL then and the reason people keep saying that is because a lot of people still buy a huge Crunch amp or the 3000D, put it on their stock electrical system, throw a BTL in there, something breaks and they don't know why.

I'm kind of confused why this is good or what you can mean by most efficient subwoofer?? is this based off of pure W/m rating? edit: lol, i just saw your post bigjon and kinda wondered the same thing

k, yeah. Thats what I've been hearing. I may have to get a new window motor in there and so obviously i'd have to take off the deadening and so I thought to myself, why not just re-do it the right way. Do you guys put the Ensolite on the door itself? or on the door panel? or both? I'm thinking a layer or two of Raammat on the inner layer of the door. Leave the eDead thats on the outside one as it is, but then put as much Ensolite as i can lay down over that eDead to absorb the back sound wave maybe? Then just Ensolite the door panel or Raammat it what are your thoughts?

k, well I have the air movement on my pant leg now. Maybe it is pretty good deadening as it is and I am just asking for to much. I don't have any....solid panels over my giant holes in my door, but I just have large pieces of the eDead that I cut out over top. So they are like flimsy or whatever, but still sealed against air. any thoughts on that vs. like a molded piece of plastic or something, then deadening that?

The 1500 is almost a perfect match for the loaded BL. If you will be upgrading the electrical already though and therefore you don't have to worry about buying it, you could get the BL now, maybe a 3000D, turn the gains down, and then when you feel the need for more bass upgrade to the BTL. Do you have a budget?