hayes55987

Condensation or anything like that a concern? Although I don't think so. Mainly what would be done is I would demount it and then just place it in my glove box. I just want to have it in my car because to me there's no point in having it really if I can't just use it when I want, instead of leaving my house, realizing I want to go somewhere, and then having to drive back to my house to pick it up.

hey guys! Got a question about leaving a portable GPS in my car 24/7? I recently got a Garmin Nuvi 255 GPS for use in my car, but living in minnesota, the temperatures can get to be pretty cold. What are your guy's opinions on leaving it in my car overnight even when the temperature can drop down real low? Can I put it in a case or something or is this just a bad idea to do with this type of electronic? Let me know! Thanks

Thinking of upgrading my battery and adding a run of 4 gauge wire for a sub-system in my 2000 Avalon XLS and its been the most advanced car I've owned technology wise. Obviously to replace it I will have to disconnect the battery and my question is about what will this do to affect the car? Will it reset the odometer and car computer and so on? Thanks and let me know if you guys have had any success!

I had my 18" BL firing upward otherwise the only other way would be to fiberglass it I guess... The opening on the trunk itself is only about 16" if I remember. I ran into the same problem with my front stage being destroyed so I amped my koda's off an old RF and ran them in the doors. Just a little FYI for you also, never been tested personally, but on the termlab forum I think the guy that runs his accord trunked said his resonance freq was around 47Hz in that car if you are doing any comps with it. Might be way off but could give you a place to start. I did the big 3 on mine and good batt in the front. Never really ran great electrical though but also never really cranked it up. Its a good car, but deadening was defientely needed for me. Its nice how you can screw down the rear brake light though haha

I actually used to have this exact same car before it was sold and it had a suprisingly good sized trunk I thought for its size. I managed to fit an 18" BL into the back of mine...:/ haha For your 3000D, how did you mount it to the back of your seat? When i had taken my carpet off I found just a metal plate there and the surface was uneven. Did you just make a new plate to screw into? or is your back seat different then mine? I ran mine with some 6.5" Koda components up front and thought it was a great sounding car. Although I had to spend a lot of time trapping down rattles in the rear deck and ended up just sealing off the whole thing instead of leaving the holes (I didn't run rear speakers) open for the rear 6x9's.

Hey guys! I have a 2000 Avalon XLS that has the stock JBL system with it. (6 disc in-dash CD Changer, factory amp, 7 speaker system with IB in rear deck for 8" Subwoofer) I thought I could handle it for awhile but i'm contemplating replacing it with an aftermarket player. I've never worked on a system with this factory amp in it. Is this that big of a concern? Or what are the workarounds for this? If its to complicated, I'd just consider running a speaker leve to RCA converter and running a sub that way and sacrificing not upgrading the highs at all. Otherwise my plan was to run some 6.5" Koda components active with an IB sub in the rear deck for an SQ based install What are my options when looking at this or has anyone had any experience? let me know!

Got a question about the electrical of a 2000 Toyota Avalon. I don't have a system in there (still debating about that), so currently its a completely stock 2000 Avalon. I am not having any "electrical" problems but the starting is a little bit slower then I'd like and with winter coming up shortly I don't wanna be stuck with a slow starting car. What happens is that the car will take a bit to start up when its "cold", but if its only been off for a bit, it takes a bit longer to start-up. The interior lights on the dash will dim when i have the brights on and like..put windows up for example. Is this a sign of bad electrical? What are some options that I can do to speed up starting? Or is this something thats not even an electrical issue? I was thinking maybe just a new battery and the big 3? I don't think a new alternator would have any need as I don't an actual system in the car. The lights dim when i put up/down windows and the lights are all on, but this happened with my 1997 Camry as well. Maybe just a Toyota thing? So the questions I'm asking are: Should I upgrade the battery and big three? just battery? just big three?...whats the cheapest option I can go with Secondly, does this sound like a problem with electrical? or is it spark plugs or something like that that can't be solved with electrical upgrades?

anyone?

hey guys! got some quick questions about struts/strut towers/suspension in a 2000 Avalon XLS. I'll describe the problem first and then tell you what the toyota dealership quoted the problem and solution would be. I have a 2000 Avalon XLS, pretty good condition that I bought from my uncle. 105,000 miles on it and all the options. I've noticed some problems with the suspension though. Some things I've noticed are a "clunking" noise from the rear when I go over bumps, the car kind of "skips" across the road, especially when i am like...merging into traffic at higher speeds on the turn and when it hits a crack in the road while i'm turning, the car feels like it really jumps across the road or something of that sort. Mainly though it is that skipping/clunking/jumpy ride that has been happening when i go over bumps or are on a poorly maintained road. Toyota took a quick glance at it and their assessment was that it was needing to have the struts replaced and it would cost 800 dollars. I'm assuming that this is all of them? Upon looking around on the internet though, i'm concerned because i've read on some of the forums that this can be a common mistake made my dealerships and that sometimes all it is is the bearings in the struts or just an improperly tightened nut on the strut or something along those lines. So i'm worried that either A) it is the struts but 800 dollars seems to high, or B) it is a different problem and toyota looked them over quickly and automatically assumed it was the entire struts. Are there any tests i can check myself? such a re-torquing the nuts to a proper amount or something? help me out if u can guys!

i've never done it personally but some people will seal their subs with duct tape just to make sure no last air leaks happen a lot

just kinda depends on the application of the subwoofer use. You can't forget upfiring as well. Typically it just has to do with what fits the room/car enviroment best. Typically upfiring has been seen a lot in SUV's, front/rear firing in trunk vehicles, and a lot of downfiring in home theatre use as I believe

yes, i am also curious. Whatever ended up happening with these things?

8.18 cu ft seems to be a little on the big side for a 15" BL. Fi reccomends a maximum of 4 cu ft. I have an 18" BL and I have no complaints about the low end. A lot of people that buy the BL seem to be using it more for a street beat in which a tuning like 27Hz is pretty uncommon. I have not read much about Havoc specs but I've seen a few reviews saying that the people that have switched them directly have noticed a bit higher output from the havoc.

they said 2.5 cubes was to small? but then you went with a 2 cu ft box currently?

haha well i'll make some good old fashioned speaker baffles but as far as installation i'm not that great into the saws-all idea and such. I guess i'll have to pull of the panels and have a look myself!