Erotomania

I've got quite a lot going on right now if you cant tell, I've got a client's SQ truck and my personal SPL build going at the same time. I've got some great info from you guys on the SQ build so lets try some on my SPL build. Last year we took state records in USACi in Stock 1801-3001, since then we've been addicted to going bigger and louder. We want to be able to still play music so, no pure tones/burp set up. We've got the durango ripped to down to having nothing but a dash, being completely deadened up. The idea sits at building a wall behind the B pillars for 4 18" BTLs. Haven't decided on what to do to power them yet. We have more than enough room to give them all the airspace in the world and want to get as as high of a number as possible. My main questions: Does it make any difference to have all 4 sitting in the same airspace, say 30-ish cubes. Or to have them paired or separated individually? Which ever puts the highest numbers up is really what matters. We can easily give all four 32 cubes giving the full maximum of 8 cubes per. I'm just curious if this may be overkill, I may simply feel this way because I've no experience with woofers of this size and power handling. I plan to build the box to be extremely strong, Double plying 3/4 MDF all around maybe triple on the baffle, fiberglass rounded edges all around, and 2 steel threaded rods for center bracing. We've only found 170amp alternators for mopars so we were thinking of running dual 170's. I was tossing the idea around of running the stock alternator and separate 170 set to run 16V to 16V batteries to push 8 sundown 1500Ds. I don't know which would be better. Just looking for ideas and insight. Thanks, Scott

We're planning out and gathering funds for our new build in a 98 durango. We're walling off at the b pillar and basically have more room than we know what to do with. We could really build a box as big as 50cubes if we'll be sitting on 4x18" BTLs tuned to 30hz for daily and pulling an RTA out to meter the wall to find the best high output frequency to tune to(yet to be determined obviously). Amps will be rather 4x rockford power 4000's or 4xMemphis 4000's depending on how money sits. Rockfords are obviously the preferred choice but at a bit of a cost. Since we have the room, should we just stay at a max of 32 cubes or run a larger box? I mean with a 3rd magnet and all the other goodies would that allow them to push more airspace?

Don't quite know just yet. The box build is piecing together as we find restrictions here and there. We're looking at have probably 43 cubic feet of space without including woofers or port space. That still is a rough guess, tomorrow we should have a better Idea.

Yeah we've been thinking of layering up some more, we have a lot more space than we know what to do with so the box can be big enough to compensate for being layered up even 4 layers thick with mdf. I was told it was a good idea to build a wall where the box will sit, just fit a woofer of some kind in there and RTA it to find the trucks resonate frequency with the wall in place and tune the port for that to get the most out of the set up. That would probably sound like chit but makes sense to put down the highest number possible within reason. Ideally we'd be able to swap ports between an SPL comp only port and ground shaking fun low tune. I'm all for doing whatever we can to built the strongest box possible, metal work just isn't exactly our thing. So maybe more plys of mdf and good bracing +steel rod reinforcement in the center should do the trick.

I see a lot of comp guys tuning their ports up. We really want to catch lows and want to tune for maybe 30 or lower. I may make a removable port so we can play with port tunings but as it stands now we'll be feeding 4x18" BTLs 32 cubes ported at whatever we tune to in shared space walled off behind the b pilar powered by rather 4 rockford t20001bds or 4 memphis MCD2500's. I think the Rockfords are higher quality amps but the memphis atleast claims more power. We're also looking at running atleast 3 batteries and 2x200A powermaster alts. Opinions welcome

I'm more of an aspiring SPL guy, I don't know it all but I know a fair deal, regardless thats my personal focus. SQ is pretty much new to me, but I've got a guy with a 250 wanting a competitive SQ car a local shop is wanting to charge him out the rear in labor, I'm pretty confident I could do whatever needed to his truck. I'm just curious where to go with it. It sits now with Focal K2P doors, Focal Access rears, Alpine 4.150PDX amp, 2x12" Pioneer slims behind the rear seats powered by a PDX 600.1 and a JL 10" woofer in the center console powered by a JL 250.1 amp processed through a Kenwood DNX7100. He wants to move the K2P fronts to the rear and put focal utopia 3 ways in the doors. Any resources you guys could dirrect me to as far as SQ build up techniques. Any component suggestions. Any help period would be great.

Told ya you'd like it Well, now that you got me drooling over it, tell me how to work it? What are some ball park crossover points for different speakers like mids tweeters and midbass woofers. I assume if I'm using this thing as a crossover I'll want to set each channel to a bandpass crossover. I've heard its best to really keep the EQ as flat as possible with the utopias Which makes sense from what I've heard of high high end audio. I'm more concerned about them getting the right crossover ranges and time delays. The S5 should have far less imaging problems considering he has the hardcore audio package with factory 3 ways, woofers in doors mids in dash and tweeters in a pillars. I'll have a pretty easy task of just swapping speakers. I've also briefly heard about building small enclosures for you mids. Is this worth a shot? like a small fiberglass sealed pod behind the speaker? This is stuff I've heard from the big man himself Mr biggs.

I just got my hands on the RF 360.2 and I've got to say its one of the coolest things I've ever seen. The guy has changed his mind and wants to build the SQ system in his new audi S5 So I'll be installing 3xMCC404M McIntosh amps utopia no.7 in the fronts K2P's in the rear 2x12" focal K2 woofers in the trunk with probably the Alpine PDX600.1 with a full layer or 2 of second skin damplifier pro and overkill. Regardless, to those who've never messed around with the RF 360.2, if you like to really tune your system this thing is the ticket. I'm def. putting one in my car.

We haven't decided on the woofer so by all means sell me on one that'll work!

For our new box we got 3/4 threaded rods with some extremely beefer fender washers, lock washers and bolts. I cant imagine needing any more support than that. Although, maybe having a PVC sleeve may be a good idea to allow you to insure the baffle doesn't want to cave in.

When you flare the port out like that, do you measure the length of the port the same? or from the start of the flare or what? Always wondered that. Also, Just curious, when you are building a smaller airspace box, does the port have to be longer for a certain frequency than a larger box? My box has a large opening, but according with WINISD the length was very short and the box was 10cubes.

We'll be using second skin damplifier pro atleast 2 layers everywhere Morel 10" woofer is what we are tossing around now No electrical upgrades Woofers in doors, Mids on the dash, and tweeters on the A pillar

Yeah...He wants 2, regardless of how important it is to have 2 or not there will be 2. The subs can run off the PDX600.1 thats already in there.

Do these things help? Just never seen them before. How about a McIntosh MCC404M amp to run the front mid's and tweeters? We would have 2 of the 404M's one for the fronts and one for the rears, in comp we'd turn the rears down if not off.

This may come out the most newb question on earth. When running multiple woofers, do you need a amp that is ratted to power the RMS of each woofer or both woofers? In my case, for 2 btls, to run both off one amp do I need a 4,000RMS amp or a 2,000RMS amp? or should I just be looking at individual amps like strapping 2 sundown 1500s together? I've been looking at the sundowns and the rockford 2000 and 4000 amps.

This is my fav bracing method. I'll be using it on my 4x18 btl build also but using 2 rods Ever since our 4x12" kicker CVR box was fired up with no center brace in a 10 cube box and warped like crazy I like to brace up a little over kill.

He is running a Kenwood DNX7100, which has probably acceptable controls for subs but doesn't do enough to work with the door speakers. Also what is the best speaker wire to be using to wire this all up? Thus far I use the monster 202 but I'm just curious if we are going to be using such high end components is this wire still good enough.

So you are saying, just set up the 3ways in the front, the k2p's in the rear, rip out all the subs, and run the individual components to channel of their own on an amp. Will the Alpine processor work with the 3 way set up? There is really not much space behind the seats for woofers. The 2x12" premiers are about as much as you can fit. Maybe some of the JL W1V2's could fit back there.

Well, the problems thus far with the truck's system are: -There is a noticeable empty sound in the center of the truck, You can tell that the passenger tweeter is far far away. -DNX has no where near the processing abilities needed for a SQ system. I'm thinking I'll put a alpine h701 w/ standalone controller in. He really really wants the utopia speakers up front. So no getting around that. I'm thinking, woofers in the factor speaker location, mids up on the top corner of the door panel and tweeters in the stock window frame trim piece with a pair of additional tweeters set in the center of the dash aimed to the passenger and driver. That way you have 2 tweeters focused on either side of the driver and passenger to fill up that empty center effect. The dynamatt was done very poorly on the doors, So I'll be doing some extensive redeadening on the doors, and about everywhere else. The Center console sounds great, though I'll be deadening the panels in some other area's to rid any extra vibration or rattles out. Also going to run fresh speaker wire through the doors to the speakers as it is hijacking factory wires currently. how does that sound for a start?

Brand new F-250 Super Duty King Ranch trim. I'm currently installing: Focal K2P in the front doors Focal Access 165A1s in the rear doors. I'm not so sure about the layout on the previous years, but the 2008 super duty has a 5x7 in the C pillar, and a tweeter in the rear door panel. So we are putting a enclosure in one of the storage pockets in the rear door panel to hold the access woofer, and fitting the tweeter in the stock location and eliminating the factory 5x7 in the pillar. Alpine 4.150 JL 250.1 to power a JL w3 10" woofer. I tore apart the center armrest storage compartment and fitting a sealed box for the w3, the 10" woofer just barely fits in the compartment alone I still got about .8sq feet of box space. Kenwood DNX7100 with all the bells and whistles. So far the woofer is installed, the amps are wired but racks are being built to fit behind the seats. The tweeters have been fitted, the rear door panels still need to be modded to fit the additional speaker, and the K2's are being a slight pain to fit in the front doors. I've done hundreds and hundreds of installs but I'm still a bit of a newb, and this is my first time getting my hands on speakers like focals, and I must say the k2's sound amazing by what I'm used to hearing(polk momos, infinity kappa's, even the polk SRs). I'll have pictures up tomorrow, its shaping up to be a pretty sweet sounding ride.

The fold-out metal things are just a flat storage area if you don't want to put stuff on the seat. You flip the seats up and lay out the metal "tray" to prevent any damage to the seat or floor. I took mine out. Six torx heads and its done. That'll give you room for a few amps. There are a couple of factory holes under the rear seats that'll accept 1/0 easily if you want to run power down the frame-rails... Behind the rear seats, yeah you gotta mount things low... which makes them inaccessible for the most part if you need to fiddle with something. Under the front seats? Forget about it!! LOL about the only thing a guy can store there is old french fries and even those would get smashed when you adjust the seat. Doors must be different than mine, I was able to put some fairly deep oversized 6.5 drivers in mine with only a wee bit o' trimming to the narrow sides of the OEM hole. They flush mounted under the factory panel after that. Well It keeps getting worse. The guy now wants me to fit 2x12" pioneer premier slims behind the rear seats. Doable, but he wants to keep those racks under the rear seats, so now I've got to figure out some magic place to put the amps. That plus he's adding headrest monitors. Cutting into that king ranch leather gives me chills.. This install is turning into one big nasty rusty nail in my ass. Since you know the truck any ideas would be great. I felt the back of the rear seats...There is no real bracing just a cloth cover...I might look into cutting the cloth and making a rack into the rear of back seats...I dont know how much padding I have to work with in those seats though. Big if on that idea, thankfully I'm working with 2 PDX alpine amps and a similarly sized JL amp.

I was thinking that...Sadly removing the woofer requires tearing the entire console apart. It needs to be done at some point anyway because the hole cut out in the box is just a hair big enough to leak pressure through 2 of the screw holes. Thats what I get for building a box like that at 4am.

I'm not sure, its my buddies truck, and when he bought all of the components the sales guy had said that the center console could be made to easily fit the W3 8 or 10" woofer or a 8" W7 claiming plenty of room. After ripping the 08 console out, there really is no where to go further down with the center console. I shaped up a MDF box to fit in there, it sounds great but sounds a little choked out on lower notes so I'm thinking of fiberglassing something and get more airspace. Kind of in trial and error phase really. He's also wanting to put some of the pioneer premier slim woofers behind the seat which is going throw another challenge, where the hell to put the amps! This truck really has no space to work with. Under the rear seats it has those fold out metal things, have no clue what they are for but they take up all the space under the rear seats, no room under the font seats, limited room behind the rear seats, even limited room in the doors for speakers. The DNX looks beautiful in the dash though, I will say that.

I've got a 91' honda prelude, and I'm going to try and use as much of the trunk as possible for a pair of 12's, rather Fi BLs or Fi Qs. I'm thinking of firing the woofers up at the trunk lid or against the back of the trunk, and having the port vent through the trunk opening into the cabin of the car. I've heard how horrible sealed boxes sound if pointed through the trunk into the cabin, I'm just curious if the port would create such a horrible effect. I'm building the box to pretty much use all of the little space I have, so there is nowhere else for the port to be free of obstruction. What do you guys think?

I'm really torn at this point as to what I want SQ or SPL. If I did vent through the opening where the backseat folds down, that'd be my SPL option for sure. And, maybe I've just had bad experiences with pointing sealed woofers into the cabin. No on told me it would sound bad, It's just never sounded good to me whenever I tried flipping a box around.