Erotomania

Don't quite know just yet. The box build is piecing together as we find restrictions here and there. We're looking at have probably 43 cubic feet of space without including woofers or port space. That still is a rough guess, tomorrow we should have a better Idea.

Yeah we've been thinking of layering up some more, we have a lot more space than we know what to do with so the box can be big enough to compensate for being layered up even 4 layers thick with mdf. I was told it was a good idea to build a wall where the box will sit, just fit a woofer of some kind in there and RTA it to find the trucks resonate frequency with the wall in place and tune the port for that to get the most out of the set up. That would probably sound like chit but makes sense to put down the highest number possible within reason. Ideally we'd be able to swap ports between an SPL comp only port and ground shaking fun low tune. I'm all for doing whatever we can to built the strongest box possible, metal work just isn't exactly our thing. So maybe more plys of mdf and good bracing +steel rod reinforcement in the center should do the trick.

We're planning out and gathering funds for our new build in a 98 durango. We're walling off at the b pillar and basically have more room than we know what to do with. We could really build a box as big as 50cubes if we'll be sitting on 4x18" BTLs tuned to 30hz for daily and pulling an RTA out to meter the wall to find the best high output frequency to tune to(yet to be determined obviously). Amps will be rather 4x rockford power 4000's or 4xMemphis 4000's depending on how money sits. Rockfords are obviously the preferred choice but at a bit of a cost. Since we have the room, should we just stay at a max of 32 cubes or run a larger box? I mean with a 3rd magnet and all the other goodies would that allow them to push more airspace?

I see a lot of comp guys tuning their ports up. We really want to catch lows and want to tune for maybe 30 or lower. I may make a removable port so we can play with port tunings but as it stands now we'll be feeding 4x18" BTLs 32 cubes ported at whatever we tune to in shared space walled off behind the b pilar powered by rather 4 rockford t20001bds or 4 memphis MCD2500's. I think the Rockfords are higher quality amps but the memphis atleast claims more power. We're also looking at running atleast 3 batteries and 2x200A powermaster alts. Opinions welcome

Told ya you'd like it Well, now that you got me drooling over it, tell me how to work it? What are some ball park crossover points for different speakers like mids tweeters and midbass woofers. I assume if I'm using this thing as a crossover I'll want to set each channel to a bandpass crossover. I've heard its best to really keep the EQ as flat as possible with the utopias Which makes sense from what I've heard of high high end audio. I'm more concerned about them getting the right crossover ranges and time delays. The S5 should have far less imaging problems considering he has the hardcore audio package with factory 3 ways, woofers in doors mids in dash and tweeters in a pillars. I'll have a pretty easy task of just swapping speakers. I've also briefly heard about building small enclosures for you mids. Is this worth a shot? like a small fiberglass sealed pod behind the speaker? This is stuff I've heard from the big man himself Mr biggs.

I just got my hands on the RF 360.2 and I've got to say its one of the coolest things I've ever seen. The guy has changed his mind and wants to build the SQ system in his new audi S5 So I'll be installing 3xMCC404M McIntosh amps utopia no.7 in the fronts K2P's in the rear 2x12" focal K2 woofers in the trunk with probably the Alpine PDX600.1 with a full layer or 2 of second skin damplifier pro and overkill. Regardless, to those who've never messed around with the RF 360.2, if you like to really tune your system this thing is the ticket. I'm def. putting one in my car.

We haven't decided on the woofer so by all means sell me on one that'll work!

For our new box we got 3/4 threaded rods with some extremely beefer fender washers, lock washers and bolts. I cant imagine needing any more support than that. Although, maybe having a PVC sleeve may be a good idea to allow you to insure the baffle doesn't want to cave in.

I've got quite a lot going on right now if you cant tell, I've got a client's SQ truck and my personal SPL build going at the same time. I've got some great info from you guys on the SQ build so lets try some on my SPL build. Last year we took state records in USACi in Stock 1801-3001, since then we've been addicted to going bigger and louder. We want to be able to still play music so, no pure tones/burp set up. We've got the durango ripped to down to having nothing but a dash, being completely deadened up. The idea sits at building a wall behind the B pillars for 4 18" BTLs. Haven't decided on what to do to power them yet. We have more than enough room to give them all the airspace in the world and want to get as as high of a number as possible. My main questions: Does it make any difference to have all 4 sitting in the same airspace, say 30-ish cubes. Or to have them paired or separated individually? Which ever puts the highest numbers up is really what matters. We can easily give all four 32 cubes giving the full maximum of 8 cubes per. I'm just curious if this may be overkill, I may simply feel this way because I've no experience with woofers of this size and power handling. I plan to build the box to be extremely strong, Double plying 3/4 MDF all around maybe triple on the baffle, fiberglass rounded edges all around, and 2 steel threaded rods for center bracing. We've only found 170amp alternators for mopars so we were thinking of running dual 170's. I was tossing the idea around of running the stock alternator and separate 170 set to run 16V to 16V batteries to push 8 sundown 1500Ds. I don't know which would be better. Just looking for ideas and insight. Thanks, Scott

When you flare the port out like that, do you measure the length of the port the same? or from the start of the flare or what? Always wondered that. Also, Just curious, when you are building a smaller airspace box, does the port have to be longer for a certain frequency than a larger box? My box has a large opening, but according with WINISD the length was very short and the box was 10cubes.

We'll be using second skin damplifier pro atleast 2 layers everywhere Morel 10" woofer is what we are tossing around now No electrical upgrades Woofers in doors, Mids on the dash, and tweeters on the A pillar

Yeah...He wants 2, regardless of how important it is to have 2 or not there will be 2. The subs can run off the PDX600.1 thats already in there.

Do these things help? Just never seen them before. How about a McIntosh MCC404M amp to run the front mid's and tweeters? We would have 2 of the 404M's one for the fronts and one for the rears, in comp we'd turn the rears down if not off.

This may come out the most newb question on earth. When running multiple woofers, do you need a amp that is ratted to power the RMS of each woofer or both woofers? In my case, for 2 btls, to run both off one amp do I need a 4,000RMS amp or a 2,000RMS amp? or should I just be looking at individual amps like strapping 2 sundown 1500s together? I've been looking at the sundowns and the rockford 2000 and 4000 amps.

This is my fav bracing method. I'll be using it on my 4x18 btl build also but using 2 rods Ever since our 4x12" kicker CVR box was fired up with no center brace in a 10 cube box and warped like crazy I like to brace up a little over kill.