XTRMEASURES

welcome jamie

welcome back and good luck.... oh and dont worry im not going to ask you for a job.... jamie

this is my boys tshirt, now it's going to be black not white. this is just a sample shirt.... http://www.chronixdesigns.com/t1.jpg front http://www.chronixdesigns.com/t2.JPG back jamie

not sure om the radio shack one, cuz i bought a termlab meter. but whats good about the RS you can return it... jamie

http://www.chronixdesigns.com/spide.jpg this is going to be on a tshirt for my boys team....lol jamie

welcome jamie

oh hell yea its tru cant wait to start on this, im going to be getting the jeep today. at first we going to use stuff i have around the house, then later start buying. im thinking of maybe the monster 8 from ED w/ about 2000w. jamie

so look out for TEAM BUFFORD in the lanes...LOL the team members are my son, daughter, wife and myself...LOL look out world hear we come...LOL jamie

yes i think theres should be guide lines to join.... jamie

sign me up jamie

hell yea i think those would give the DD9515d a run for its money hopefully ill have my new system in by then... jamie

now now jamie.....you should already know about my dd..you heard it at the show...lol!!! yea thats why i asked...lol my 8" sub hits almost as hard plus sounds better... j/p :boink: jamie yea ok jamie. i'd love to see your 8" hit that hard. charles lol i sayed ALMOST but you lucky i took it out to start my usaci install cuz we could had a challenge if you would have gave me a 4db head start plus only had 200w to it :boink: but i guess well hever know later man jamie

thanks shane jamie

also what does the person get if he joins?? besides help from others?? jamie

do you have to pay to join the teams?? jamie

yea go to radioshack and get the db meter that goes up to 120db... (it cheap then when u finish return it back) put a sealed box with any type of sub... make a cd with test tones like from 20-80hz start playing the cd going through all the hz to see which is the loudest on the meter... it very easy to do good luck jamie

now now jamie.....you should already know about my dd..you heard it at the show...lol!!! yea thats why i asked...lol my 8" sub hits almost as hard plus sounds better... j/p :boink: jamie

welcome my new friend jamie

i have one question, how do one get started on a team or became part of a team.... jamie

is that a good sub...lol jamie

welcome to the forum yea f-bodys are nice to play with i just finished my cousins car and it came out ok i guess (wish i had a bigger budget on it) jamie

welcome jamie

^^^some good reading^^^ jamie edit denim: Pin worthy

i found this, so im passing it on..... Car Batteries What you need to know about your vehicle's battery. Most of us don't think much about the battery in our vehicle; we simply turn the key and expect the engine to start. We expect the battery to be reliable, long-lasting and maintenance-free. Once it fails, however, odds are you'll have to replace it, and knowing which type and size battery you need is important. Will it be conventional, maintenance-free or recombination? Conventional Batteries A 12-volt automotive battery has six compartments or cells. Each cell has a series of alternating positive and negative plates separated by isolators. All negative plates in the battery are connected, as are all positive plates. Each plate has lead sheeting bonded to it and every cell is filled with a solution of sulfuric acid and distilled water (electrolyte). As the battery supplies electricity, or discharges, the electrolyte reacts with the lead, forming lead sulfate and weakening the electrolyte. Conversely, as it charges, the acid is returned to the electrolyte and the lead sulfate is converted back into active material in the plates. During this cycle, hydrogen, and oxygen molecules evaporate out of the electrolyte, which is why batteries often need topping up with distilled water. Over time, continual charge/discharge cycles slough lead off the plates that build up in the bottom of the battery. Eventually, the plates short out and the battery dies. Maintenance-free Batteries A maintenance-free battery is essentially the same as a conventional battery, except for thicker plates and more electrolyte. Most new vehicles come equipped with this type of battery since it is more reliable and lasts longer. However, these batteries cannot be topped up and once the electrolyte evaporates and the plates are exposed, the battery is no good. Another type of maintenance-free battery is the gel-type. It has the electrolyte in gelatin form and does not lose electrolyte through evaporation. However, because the use of electrolyte gel requires the use of thinner plates for proper distribution of the acid it means that a gel battery in marginal condition can literally shake the plates apart as the vehicle rides over rough roads. Recombination Batteries Recombination batteries recombine the gases formed during charging, keeping electrolyte concentrations optimum. They are completely sealed, never need topping up, and come with either liquid or gel-type electrolyte that is bound into the separators. There is no sloughing of lead and the plates in these batteries are tightly packed. The result is a powerful, compact battery with quicker charging time and a longer lifespan. The down side is often a higher price tag. How Batteries are Rated To help you determine what battery your car needs, batteries are rated by ampere hours (Ah), cold cranking amperes (CCA) and reserve capacity. These ratings tell you how much power a battery can produce under marginal conditions. Ampere hours rate how much current can be drawn from a battery over a 20-hour period without voltage dropping below 1.75 volts per cell. A healthy battery should keep the parking lights lit for 20 hours. For powering accessories without the engine running, this is an important measurement. Cold cranking amperes rate a battery's ability to start an engine under marginal conditions. CCA measures how much current can be delivered in amperes for 30 seconds at minus-18 degrees Centigrade (zero degrees Fahrenheit) with a final voltage of 7.2 volts per cell or higher. If you live in a cold-weather climate, you want this number as high as possible. Reserve capacity, measured in minutes, tells how long a battery can keep the engine going if the alternator fails. During this test, 25 amperes are drawn from the battery for as long as voltage does not drop below 10.5 volts. Any battery you purchase should have a reserve capacity of at least 120 minutes, so you can always make it home. Finally, always buy a battery rated for the vehicle and all the accessories it uses. Generally, this means a high Ah, high CCA, and high reserve capacity. Buy a quality, name-brand battery. Those sold in no-name battery discount stores are often poorly assembled and use inferior materials in the plates and separators. good luck jamie

i am writeing this to try and help people understand what the specs of there amps mean. i'm not a expert on amps but i know enough to write this. when chooseing a amp theres many thing to look at like class a/b or class d and if you need a 2ch, 4ch or mono amp it go's on and on. ....so here it go's.... (in random order) you will need to know if you need a class a/b. class d ect ect. they are many types of class's like a, b, , c, a/b, d, t, x but the one's you see more in car audio is a/b and d. now there are more and more class t amps comming out because the price to build them are going down. CLASS A: these amps have an output device that never turns off, so they are always conducting current. and known to be more linear (this means it will sound better then most amps but this is only in theory) now because the output never turns off they are very inefficient which in turns cause heat.on a side note class a amp were the first type of amps. CLASS B: these amps were built in place of class a to inprove there efficiency. most techs callthis type of amp (push-pull) because of the fact they have 2 output devices. one positive and one negative side of the waveform. this makes the amp turn off the output device when there is no signal to the amp, so helping the heat issue of the class a amp.but the drawback of these amps is the distortionat the point when the waveform is handed over to the output device with opposite polarity. at low levels the distotion will be audible. CLASS A/B: this type of amps combines the class a and class b to help pervent the drawbacks of each amp.it will conduct current like a class a at low levels, but as it goes up it starts to act like a class bamp. so this is the reason why you see more class a/b amps in car audio. CLASS C: i'm not going to get into class c because we dont see this type of amps in car audio. CLASS D: these amps are known as switching amplifier or a digital amplifier. although it may appear digetal, these amps are NOT. because of the pulse are done by analog. these amps are more efficient because there either completely on or completely off. with neither of them producing very much power. there is also class t amps but im going to get into that right now. (maybe later) the ones to look for is class a/b and class d. class a/b are uselly for your highs/mids and the class d is for your subs. but class a/b are known to sound better then class d on subs. SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO: these signals are rated in decibels (db) and the higher the db the better.this measurement is the difference betweenthe noise floor and the refernce level which is different from manufactures. but the important thing is a value of around 100db is good. TOTAL HARMONIC DISTORTION (THD): this is the distortion made by the amp because all amps are not perfectly linear. the thing to look for is a THD around .5%. so anything below that will be better. DAMPING FACTOR: the higher the DF the better, it will help pervent hangover. hangover is when the subs cone moves up and comes back down but the cone will vibrate tell it reaches full rest. (not good for SQ) this can make the sound of the sub sound booming. so anything around 150 is good. this is all im going to write right now i will be back with more... hope this helps a few people out understanding what to look at when your looking at your spec sheet of your amp. jamie