smullen

I know this is old, but You ever get any pics of your ride/system???

You have to test it and see... I think you can get some small/thin lead sheets that can shield it, if needed... I had LCDs on one one of my enclosures with no issues.... I had a a 13.3 or 13.5" LCD centered on the back and a 6.5" on either side of it... That was on the back, when you dropped the tailgate of my Blazer... I have (might still have it) a video switcher so I could switch what source goes to to what Monitor... So I'd have Drivers Side Visor playing Halo or D.O.A.3 and the other side playing a Movie or some decent videos, then in the back the Center bigger one would be XBox and one of the smaller ones would be movie/video and the other smaller mon would be displaying the video from a small LCD I had in the back and front.... I don't know why, but people freak out when they see themselves on TV... That and they always liked the Xbox better than the PS2 even though it was newer... Depending on the parking at shows, I'd run long ass CAT5 cables I made to two of the other guys in the Car Clubs rides that also had Xboxes and we'd play Halo against each other at shows...... Would I use this much for Daily driving, no.... Althought my wife used to play DOA3 or that stupid Fusion Frenzy on the way back from the Cabin or CarShows we went to out in Kansas City...

Nice wood work on the enclosure... Sorry if I missed it, but how many cubes is that enclosure???

Just got my Shirt in... I dig it.... Those Hoodies and Hats would be great with Winter comming on....<Hint Hint>

I've seen this asked before and I thought I knew ""Best Practices" but then in reading, I discovered there are some things about the PRE inputs on teh Sundowns where they don't like certian ""Higher End" RCA cables... Who woulda thunk it???? So, if that was unknown to me, what else is, you know... So my question/scenario is I have: Headunit - Front Stereo Preouts to SAX125.2 Pre-Ins Headunit - Rear Stereo Preouts to SAX 125.2 Pre-Ins No question there, next is the question part. I will be running (4) SAZ-2000D, if I can ever afford the rest of them.... Trying for by Christmas... Should I run from Head Unit Sub Pre Outs w multiple RCA Y Adapters to SAZ-2000D Pre-Ins Head Unit Sub Pre Outs to SAZ-2000D Pre-Ins, then out if it to next SAZ-2000D (Thought I read somewhere this was a Non-No on these amps and only for Master/Slave setups) Head Unit Sub Pre Outs to Some type of Line Driver like an Audio Contro Matrix or Epicenter, then Y dapters on its Pre-outs to SAZ-2000D Pre-Ins I wish there was nicer (Quality and looks) Y Adapter Device that had a pair of L&R RCA Inputs and either 4 or 6 pairs L&R outputs, for running signal to all your sub amps... Currious to the answers I get...

hmmm Looking at the maxx-Link.... Anyone know a decent online retailer that sells them N.I.B. ???

4 Subs, (1) 12" Dual 2 Ohm, wired to 1 Ohm @ each amp I thought it had two sub outs (L & R), but its been awhile since I looked at it... Its a Kenwood DVD Head Unit, forgot the model number something like a KZ-910DVD... DVD head unit with no screen... It in the Garage at my other house or I'd run out and look...

You should do a couple of Highres Sundown Backgrounds for PCs.... A few with just the Sundown Audio logo, then maybe a few with one of each Sundown Amps or one with each amp and a one of each pair of drivers... I have a laptop and three PCs at work that I like to cycle the backgrounds on...

This thread has my ""Bumps" than my truck...

Bump for attention of someone with Da Skillz!!!! PhotoChop Skillz...

400 RMS I suggest small ported... it's not as good sealed as the E8 was, but better ported. 0.4-0.6 ported tuned to 30-40 Hz will be sick. Holy crap that thing looks sick for an 8... Its a Beast!!! I'd almost pick one up one for a coffie table conversation piece... Wow... I suck at dealing with ports.. I could not even see how to do this... According to the port calc on the 12 volt page, With a Port Diameter 4", Box Volume of .70 cubic feet, Tunning Freq 30 Hz = Port Length of 50.829

No problem... What load are you looking for at the amp, is the 1st question you need to ask yourself??? 1 OHM or 4Ohm??? Then go here... http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=12 On the "Subwoofer Wiring Wizard" There will be two drop down selectors.... Speaker QTY (Pick 2) and Voice Coil Impedance (1 ohm, Dual)... Then click "View Wiring Options".... it will show you what you need to know... I used this way back when I had (3) Dual 6 Ohms sub that I needed to run @ 4 ohm... as the amp was only 2 ohm stable in Mono... Hope that helps...

Been asking for Shirts and hats too for a long time.... Several times I've even e-mailed them as asking for the logos to make my own... Did not even get a reply... I'm not asking for freebies... I''ll pay fair for shirts and hats... Just ordered a few Sundown Shirts... RE needs to step it up and get some Dicky Work Shirts and Hoodies... Problem with going to a place to get them made yourself is they charge Hella for the setup and to convert from a raster to a vector image or whatever they use... So, your like 80 for setup 20-35 for shirt or Hoodie 20-35 for the imbroider or screen print Then they normally have a 5-10 shirt minium order, same size... I wish someone would start a company that just sold Car Audio clothing.... Shirts, Hoodies, jackets, hats, Banners, small large stickers... I think the individual companys would sue you once they found out though.... Except for some of the companies that have forums here... They might be ok with it... Seems like good free advertising to me... Hey man let me know exactly what you're looking for... Whether it be a heat press transfer(like an iron on type print) or an embroidered logo. Also what the logo is and how big size wise. I have some people that make shirts for me pretty often and could more than likely get you some really good pricing for it. Just drop me a PM. Well, I'd really like a T shirts with RE Logo on Front and back Hoodies Same way Dickys Short Sleave Work shirt with Big RE logo on back , maybe little on front over pocket... the XXX logo might be cool too like over the pocket??? If Sundown Made Hoodies or Flex Fit Hats I'd be interested in those... Maybe you should look into getting a batch made and tack on like 5 bucks for yourself... If the price doesn't get outta hand alot of people might be interested... Let me know what you come up with... You might start a thread? I'll leave that up to you..

Not sure if my shirt guy would want to do just a few outside of a bulk order. How tall are you ? Brandon is 6'2" tall and he has a large on in the photo, 4xl is 2-3" taller. my guess is he is 5'5 but he is GANGSTER lol

Been asking for Shirts and hats too for a long time.... Several times I've even e-mailed them as asking for the logos to make my own... Did not even get a reply... I'm not asking for freebies... I''ll pay fair for shirts and hats... Just ordered a few Sundown Shirts... RE needs to step it up and get some Dicky Work Shirts and Hoodies... Problem with going to a place to get them made yourself is they charge Hella for the setup and to convert from a raster to a vector image or whatever they use... So, your like 80 for setup 20-35 for shirt or Hoodie 20-35 for the imbroider or screen print Then they normally have a 5-10 shirt minium order, same size... I wish someone would start a company that just sold Car Audio clothing.... Shirts, Hoodies, jackets, hats, Banners, small large stickers... I think the individual companys would sue you once they found out though.... Except for some of the companies that have forums here... They might be ok with it... Seems like good free advertising to me...

Ever shipped any to St. Louis Missouri??? I don't know anyone here who knows what Sundown, RE, SI, AQ, etc... etc.... is unless they heard of it through me....

HolyCrap.... 3/0 or 4/0.... Do you run that??? I don't think I've ever seen anything bigger than 0/1... What kinda connecters do you use on that??? Any pics??? That could be what I need for (4) 2000Ds and (2) 125.2s... Which I'd have already, if I could stop buying gun parts and ammo.... Just spent 350 on ammo for the AR-15... Could amost bought another 2000D or most of an Alternator... <sigh>

Just ordered a 4XL... I'm 6'5" 295 lbs.... P.S. I would also be interested in T-shirts and hoodies (4XL) Light Blue, Navy and white and Hats of the same colors.... If you get hats made, check out Flex Fits.... I've had several made with Car Club logos and other stuff on them and I thought they came out real nice... Got plenty of comps on them too...

I was gonna say the same thing, how far is the port from the back hatch? How far should a port be from a hatch, panel or trunk lid? I think its one of those things where you really gotta move it around and experiment with it... Different boxes tuned at different frequencies with different shaped ports would most likley act a bit different I'd guess... In another thread, where I was talking with some fellow Blazer owners about potential designs for 4 12s, they mentioned needing 6+ inches between the back of the enclosure and the tailgate... However, I've never seen a published rule... A combo of what you have to work with (willing to give up) and trial and error, I guess...

Looking real good... I bet its gonna Wang!! I forgot if you said or not, does the back seat fold up with the box in??? Where you putting the amps? on the front of the box toward the front seats?? Lastly, are you afraid with the port up against the back of the hatch wall like that, are you afraid it will be restrictive??? Love Blazer installs!!!

??? Do you mean you can't find a harness to buy that will fit or you've bought several for that vehicle that are for it, but do not work some some odd reason... Does the factory H.U. have onstar and all that crap in it??? I seem to remember one of my old car club buds having an issue, where he had to get this adapter that let him put the factory H.U. in the back or somwhere and put an After market H.U in the dash... I think he got the adapter from Parts Express.com...

I wonder if I would just be better off doing a wall??? Then space would not be an issue... Seems like everytime I have a box It always ends up way too small to make everything fit and look good... Anyone got pics of a Blazer or simmilar sized SUV with 4 12s in a wall??? Seems like when people do a wall, they use 6 12s or 4 15s or 4 18s, Or more....

Posted this on *** as thats where I found a box design I'm interesed in, but thought I'd ask here too asn see what you aLL THINK... I want to redo my system AGAIN and I'm slowly stackin parts to get it all ready... I have most of the wiring (RCAs, lots of 0/1, 4 and 8 ga wire, tons of connecters, etc ) most of the major stuff (I have 2 sets of RE XXX Componets, the 4 12" RE XXX D2s older style, 1 SAZ-2000D, buying 3 more and I guess I need 2 SAX-125.2s for my Mids and Tweets), now my biggest problem is how to fit it all and make it all look cool.. Again the ride is a 2000 S-10 Blazer and like I said I want to put in 4 12" XXX D2s in a vented enclosure for "&quot;SQL&quot;" I guess.... Meaning I want it as loud as possible but still sound good on music, not looking for test tones or Burps... NO Wall... I'm thinking the 4 12"s vented firing up... I got the idea of the enclosure style I want to go with from a guys builds over at *****... Here is the pic of the enclosure... (Pics, are not mine, so props to lowrider77 on the box design and sweet ride BTW) Now I just need ideas on were how to put all the equiptment, so its looks nice/clean and can be accessed to work on when needed... Besides the box, how do I mount the 4 x SAZ-2000D 2 x SAX-125.2 4 Batts, their fuses and wiring... Maybe a rogue processer or two.... I have an Audiocontrol Epicenter laying around somewhere.... I'm guessing the enclosure will end up tweeded like some of the other parts of my interior...

Its ok... Its time to learn.. and its easy... Just a few steps Buy a soldering gun kit that has the gun, the flux, solder (rosin-core best for electronics, I think), etc... Not that expensive and once you have it, you'll always have it take two wires to be soldered together, strip about 3/4 inch or so of each end to be soldered, everyones got a different opinion on length... twist all the strands of the wire the same way together, so the individual little wires don't fray... Now is the perfect time to slide a peice of heat shrink on and several inches up the wire away from the soldering joint... Now twist each of the wires to be soldered together, together, see that they are together pretty good... Heat up the soldering gun, hold the soldering gun tip on the two wires till they get hot enough to melt the solder, Then Unroll the solder coil and dab it between the wires your soldering and the tip of the gun till the silver solder covers all the bare wires... Use just a bit at a time... The idea is to cover all the bare wire, but not use to much... A shiny Solder joint is a good happy Joint... A dull dusy looking joint is a cold joint that will be broken easy... After soldering, slide heat shrink tube down over the new solder joint, heat slowly with a lighter or heat gun, carefull not to melt the heat shrink to much or the wires jackets.... (not sure if this pic will show up)... Also, here is a link to a decent how too... http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/how_to/solder/index.html I dunno, why but I think its fun... I guess its because I'm not good a much and when I find something I can do pretty good, I dig it... I didn't always either.... I recently built one out of 2x4s and Plywood... Nothing fancy or store bought... For many years I used the kitchen table as my workbench... Actually, still do, depending on the project... Wife hates it, but what are ya gonna do...

Yea, rip it out right qick and peek at the connections.... If nothing looks funky, your going to have to pull it out and put it on your work bench and test it; Make sure it wrks right there... If it does then break out the multi-meter and test light... Check all your fuses at the pannels, then power wires comming out of the dash... I'm assuming you used a wiring harness kit... One that you solder on to the headunits wires, then plug in to the factory plugs and its not just butchered and spliced in.... I never soldered the connections.. I didn't butcher them either. It was a harness that plugs into the stock harness, has a little module, and then the wires that come out that you hook up to the headunit. I used these. Butt Connecters.... Yuck!!! Jus playin, but I never use those... Some people swear by'em, but everytime I've had a wiring problem, its been those... So, I don't use'em any more.. When I put in a Headunit, I take the factory wiring harness adapter kit lay it out on the bench with the head unit harness and strip each of the connections, slip some heat shrink on, then twist them together and solder'em up, slid the heat shrink over the solder and shrink'em up... Pretty much the same with any smaller guage wiring like that that I do... Kinda nerdy, but I actually like to Solder and heatshrink... My dad taught me how to do it when I was going into Junior High, then I took a Electronics/Shop class in High School and we covered it again... Fun stuff...