fbi90909

yeah. well I'm having a hard time getting the proper size enclosure setup for what i want to install in the future. so being that i have about 3k in power for my subs i was considering on taking up a BTL 15" now, i truly love my XXX and i love the low end of them but my downfall on them is the lack of upper frequencies. now my only other options that are in mind with my 2 XXX's is running them sealed. they will be 15's. (lol i can't use 12's.) well. i also feel that it's time to try something new. seeing all the good things that Fi has to offer and with the BTL i was taking this into consideration. with tuning up in 33-35hz i would assume it would hit some of the upper frequencies much better than the XXX(I'm talking about the 40-50hz range). i know the low end won't compare to the XXX but that's not of my concern. plus most bass in most music ranges in the 40-60 range. being that a fully loaded BTL can handle a good amount of juice i was thinking of getting one in D1 coils and wire it up to 2ohms. then strap my 1500d's to 2ohms and run the setup like that. what do you guys think? if i do go the BTL route I'll probably keep the XXX and pass it down to my little brother when he gets a car. lol. he bought me my ap1040 when i got my civic. so why not give him a superb sub?

i've only been stopped for speeding once about 2 years ago, and a once for noise violation but got a warning for it. same moto cop that get me the speeding ticket. both were a whole year apart. now i've done my fair share of stupid chit down here. i play my music loud at times. i have tinted tail lights. a pretty funny yet slightly offensive liscense plate, has FN in it(refferring to fudgein'). i now have blue halos in my projector head lights. oddly enough i haven't been stopped in a little over a year. though i did get a warning from a friend who is in good relations with a cop. the cop asked him if he's seen my car around(not knowing that he knew me) and that they've been trying to catch me in the act cause other people have been calling me in about the noise. lol since then i keep my system to myself unless if i'm on the highway. not saying you should or anything. lol i'm just trying to save my ass from getting a ticket. though i don't ride dirty anymore so i have no reson to not allow them to search my car if asked. though it would piss me off if they did bring a stinky dog that drooled all in my car.

i like my amps the way they are. i'm not too big of a fan of the new design you slapped on. i kinda like the flames a little better. props to ya

it's a gain control(or so i feel it is) the way i set mine is i set the gain on the AMP to nothing or all the way down. i set the remote to MAX. i then began turning the gain on the AMP to the proper setting. when the setting is acheived i begin turning down the remote untill i find where the remote begins to start lowering the audio. i find that my remote only goes up half way with the amp settings. anything after half way does nothing. i find it good to have the remote cause my dad takes my car out here and there and he knows how to tinker with my HU. so instead of him messing with the HU's settings he just turns down the remote all the way.

i think he means measuring the voltage running through them. like to see if his head unit if putting out a continuous 4v while playing music or if it's fluctuating(4v is an example).

oh, i forgot. 1 of my remotes LED finally died the other day. remote still works just not the LED. i tested my other remote and the LED lights up so it's not the amp. lol. other than that. no issues.

Honda's have chitty space to fit large batteries in the engine bay so i had to put it in the trunk. i believe the only way i could really fit a large battery in the engine bay would be to change my stock air intake to a short ram air intake. it would open up a lot of space for the battery compartment and allow me to fit a full size up there. as for my likes and dislikes between the SS and the SD. i liked the SS as it provided more power, there was a very noticeable difference in output when i had to switch amps out. initially i was running around 1800-1900w from the SS, but it was a power hog. i pushed it on an endurance run for about 7hrs straight w/o it ever shutting off or ever getting hot. was a good amp but shorted out one day and started sending DC to my sub. lasted a little over 3 months and ended up getting a full refund for it. the SD i love as it has proven to be very efficient. i knew what i was getting myself into when i purchased the amp with the lower power rating but at that time i wanted a high end amp that won't die out on me in 3 months. so far i pushed 1 amp for about 9 months straight. i purchased a second which i swapped amps to test the amp for the limited warranty i have on it and it's been holding up just fine. i strapped them both together and played around with a mixed sub and worked fine. never have either amps gone into protect or shut down. gave 1 amp an endurance run of about 9 hours and never got past warm. the SS - power for price the SD - customer service, efficiency+power for a well built amp. just a little pricey but they are solid, stable and lasting amps.

4cu tuned to 30hz on a soundstream pca200d 5cu tuned to 30hz on saz-1500d. this ones just a bunch of clips put together.

looks loud. as john asked what else did you do to the car? i caught your voltage dropping to 11.2 within the first 5 seconds of hard bass. did your amp cut out just before you stopped the vid? did you install an HO alt or some extra bats?

you could buy the AA, use it for the time being and if you feel that you don't like it you could just sell it for a little less and buy an rl-i8 when they are in stock. you will lose some money but you would get a feel for the sub and can give us feedback on how they differ.

sounds pretty clean there. seems like you don't get as much rattle as i do and your running bigger. digging the car too.

very nice!

yeah, happened about 2 hrs ago. i just got done speaking with my insurance and Alamo rentals loss/damage department. i feel chitty seeing my car bruised like this, but very very pissed about people that don't pay attention to the road. i have been in near collisions MANY MANY times for the same reason of people merging w/o looking, and i knew that that would be the accident i would be involved in eventually and well it did happen today. the story, i was driving north bound on a 4 lane road with a center divider on the outside lane. he pulled out of a complex area from the far left onto the center divider. then at a very slow speed he merged into the inside lane(i'm still on the outsie lane/far right). right now i'm doing 40mph coming up to him. at half a cars lenght infront of me i see him just swirve into my lane at his low speed, probrably 5-10mph, and well that's when the magic happened. my baby, at the accident area his rental upclose pics of my damage. what makes me feel worse is the amount of body that shifted on the car cause my drivers side of the hood is pinching my head light and my door now makes this nasty scratching sound when i open it. really pisses me off. people seriously need to fucking watch the road. :madsign:

a black honeycomb style grille would look 100 times better, though i'm not sure they even make if fer them vans.

damn, sounds like a project. i couldn't wait till the weekend i'd probrably start right now or after work tomorrow. i'm going to be retrofitting a pair of projectors headlights i got with better projectors hopefully this weekend if they arrive on friday. i'm anxious like a mofo.

just take a multi meter and hook it up to the source. tweek the little adjustment meter to set the meter to the correct voltage. like if your voltage sits at 14.2 on a multi meter and the meter sits at 13.8, just tweek it to match the multi meter. basically to find the balance.

oh yeah, forgot to mention the 2 sided sticky tape sucks that comes with it. just go to home depot and pic up some of the 3M outdoor high strenght 2 sided tape. it cost like 3.50. it'll save you from creating any cosmetic damage and the tape should never let go. chit mines never come off. lol, just be sure to clean the surface with alcohol before mounting.

ok i think i got it, the three wires will be of course ground, constant, and switchable, i run nothing off my h/u remote, so maybe i run my switchable to my h/u remote, ground to ground of course and then last but not least, you said you ran your constant to your rear cell? and it works fine for you? yep. just fuse the wire though. i have a 16ga wire running from the side post from my rear red top with a 1amp inline fuse that runs along the power wire all the way up to the front to the dash. all the amp connections are made on the top post. i used the side post for an unstrained power source in a matter of speaking. to this day i have never had any issues with the meter. it's just a little extra run of a small power wire but i would rather have a direct power source instead of a line from a splice in the run of power wire.

my setup makes me spazz/shivver on certain songs. just once every other our though. i think it's funny. nice setup you have there. Sundown FTW!

x2, i think it needs a 4th slug. lol that's a beefy 8 though.

i run a stinger voltage meter in my car and i look at it ALL the time. my HU has a voltage meter on it but i got tired of only having the voltage display and not being able to see the head units displays. imo they are worth the price of them. they are kinda bulky and would require some work for a nice flush mount. but i managed to put mine in a good location. it comes with 3 wires. so wiring is easy. i used an automotive relay for mine as to raise the remote voltage coming out of my H.U. as it's hooked up to a lot of units. anyways here's a little diagram of how min e is run. oh and since i located mine right next to my cigarette lighter i just grounded it directly to it. but i ran a power wire directly from the battery.

that problem can easily be solved by not purchasing such equipment that requires a great deal of electrical.

cool,