fbi90909

my issue is it won't stay logged in for me even though i have the remember me checked in. everytime i come to the forum i have to log in.

i has a 15" fully loaded btl for sale that is cheaper then the price of a stock 15btl.

does the car have gas? one time my car wouldn't turn over and i ended up having it towed to a mechanic. they ended up finding my car was out of gas(89 cutlas cierra). the needed stopped working properly and read as if i had more then i really had

yeah you are def going to need more than just a single 1500d. i run 2 1500d's on my single 15 and it impresses. as sacket said get something that you can match with the 1500 in effeciency

wow

negative. you need a recone from JL. if you pick up a cheap motor you may get a recone kit and still be under the actual cost of buying a new speaker in whole.

well as soon as i found out that the website was updated i checked it out and found they had shirts. WOOHOOO!! finally. i ordered 2 on the spot. lol, well today i see my 2 shirts have already arrived and i just wanted to say thanks MUCH and the ship time was superb for non-built items. lol. now i can rep yall out! oh, and my BTL is running strong off the 3k it's getting. lol.

should be fine.

for an SX recone kit it will pretty much be equivilent to the soft parts as an original SX. if you want more power handling or such you will have to send the motor in to have a custom pole peice machined in for it. i believe that's what i was emailed with from a previous recone done a long time ago for an sx 15. i don't remember exactly how much the recone kit cost but i think i paid somewhere around 115-125, but that's because i also needed a new basket.

looks like it turned out well, good job man.

not to be off topic but the a/c on making your car burn more gas has actully been proven to be a myth running the a/c in my car causes strain to my engine and causes me to lose hp. you ever sit at a stop light with your a/c off and just accelerate? the car should pick up quite rapidly. well with my car when i'm sitting at a stop with the a/c on and accelerate the car picks up slower. with the added weight of a btl, a kinetik 2400, 4 amps. lots of 1/0 wire, soundening, and an mdf box all in the trunk doesn't help much either. my car on the highway still gets great mileage, but in the city it's not too great. the "myth" they tested was on a track, they just drove laps. they need to take that myth, and try stop and go traffic.

ouch!

odd. lotta people having battery issues lately. i today noticed my car didn't like it's startup. usualy when my batteries are charged my car starts up nice and quick. when my batteries are low the car strains to start. well today all day i've been noticing my voltage being pure chit. so i take my car to an advanced auto and have my front stock battery checked to find it was bad. so i ended up having to buy a new battery. :/ now i need to recharge my kinetik. i have to say i hate my cars electrical system. pure chit imo. my voltage never stays at 14.v w/o having to run my a/c which then causes me to burn more gas.

alright so well I've been at this since Saturday morning and well i decided i would start up my build log tonight. i have some progress already going so i feel I'm at a pacing start. i got 2 weeks to accomplish as much as i can as I'm on vacation from work. yeah, it's kind of weird to take a vacation and work on your car. lawl. i have no where to go really and i usually take vacations to get a lot of work done. like when i did my fiberglassing. took 3 weeks and wao did those days go fast! anyways. my new rebuild will consist of, Components: Phoenix Gold RSD 6.5(new) Comp Amp: Profile AP1040 Alternator: Iraggi 200amp(Ordering soon) Deadener: 60sqft Elemental Designs Edead v1SE

yeah making your own tweeter mounts in your pillars won't be too hard. just takes a little patience. as mentioned above start off with pre positioning the tweets in the pillar and give them a listen. if you feel you are happy with the location then begin working on getting their angles set. what you could do for this step is make a tweeter mounting ring. you can make it out of popcicle sticks or out of mdf(which will be harder). i'd recommend buys some popcicle sticks and cut them maybe 3/4" lenth. then hot glue them side by side while wrapping them around the tweeter. try not to glue them onto the tweeter as you want the tweeter off the finished ring. well after you make a complete ring out of peices of sticks. add another layer on top of it to thicken it up just a bit. mount tweeter in new ring and reposition it on the a pillar . when you have the angle and position you want. take more popcicle sticks and hot glue to the ring onto the pillar with the sticks. after you get the ring on nice and firm you carefully remove the a-pillar from the car w/o taking off the prepositioned ring. when you got them off sand down the edges and surface of the pillar with 200-300grit sand paper to roughen it up. then take a super thin spandex like material and stretch it over the a pillar. an easy way to stretch your fabric is to start at lets say the bottom corner. hot glue the fabric to the back of the pillar. then stretch that same side upwards to the top. make sure you stretch it tightly. when it's at it's maxed stretch point you hot glue the top corner down. after that area is glued just hot glue the rest of the side edge. remember to hot glue all the fabic onto the back of the pillar. after you got the top and bottom of 1 side of the pillar start stretching the fabric over to the other bottom side of the pillar. hot glue that corner down when you got it nice and tight. then stretch and glue while working your way upwards on the rest of the side area untill you reach the top. if i explained that right you should have a nicely stretched fabric over the entire from pillar with no defects. make sure you have a strong bracing hold for the tweeter ring as there is a possibility of having the ring unmount while stretching. cut off excess glue on the back of the pillar. a fast method of gluing is to keep a block of ice on hand. take like hald a can of coke and freeze water in it, when you set the glue into the area just press the ice on top of it. it'll flash cool the hot gue so you can continue working your way around w/o having to wait till the glue cools after the fleecing is down take the pillar and mount it in the car again. make sure it fits and that the front portion of the fleece is not disrupting the mounting. if the front is good to go then it is time to glass. take some resin(i perfer US Composites B440premium resin for any fiberglassing projects) and resin up all the fabric. just don't add resin to the back side of the pillar where you hot glues. just get it up to the edje of the pillar. when dry add another layer of resin. after it dries add a 3rd layer. after that dries you can start adding fiberglass. since this is a small area and you don't want to add tooo much mass i would suggest you use .5oz fiberglass mat. it's thin suff and will work best with curvy items. well add a layer of fiberglass. let it begin to dry up for 30min-1hour. then add another layer of glass. then repeat. after about 4-5 layers let it sit and dry overnight. by morning you should have a strong solid looking pillar with a uniform shape. now that the pillar is ready here is where you decide on what you want to cover it with. do you want to paint it? or do you want to put suede or such material on it? well, get some body filler(i perfer Evercoat rage Gold) and put on an even layer of boy filler all over the front of the pillar. when the body filler dries you need to start sanding it. you can start with 32 grit sand paper to knock it down fast and get it to a desired shape/curve. when you got your shape/curves you start working up the grit. this depends on if your going to be painting or laying fabric. if your going to put fabric over it then you can just sand it up to 200grit to remove and deep gashes from the rougher paper. if you want to paint it. you will be doing A LOT of sanding. sand it witht he 32., then bump up the the next grit. and so forth till your wet sanding with 1000-1500 grit. after your done with sanding. paint or cover your pillar. cut off the excess fabric off the back and remove the hot glue. if you have a heat gun it will speed up the removal process. use a razor blade to cut the fabric close to the back of the edge and you should be done. just drill a hole to run the tweet wires and just put in the tweet. lol. i think i covered all the steps. this is how i would do a project of mounting tweets in the a pillars. i'm sure others have different methods as well. if you do decide on fiberglassing and need some advice on how to just ask. i love fiberglassing. it's easy and fun! oh, and if you do decide to do the project, please please take this into consideration, PATIENCE IS KEY! be patient. it's not a 1 day project. and if your going to paint. don't skimp on the sanding cause your tired. do i right!

oh yeah. and as i was removing rim of the car to gain access to the alt i discovered this on my rims center cap cover. those mother puckers at sears dented the holy hell out of it. now i gotta buy a new one

:eek:thanks for the comments guys alright so today i took the alt over to R&R to get the alt tested. when i get there a guy is like, you're going to have to come back in like an hour so we can test it cause the alt guy isn't here. so an hour later i return. the guy looks at the amp. i explain my situation. then he's like, i'm not going to test this for you. we can't test it we don't have the plug for it. i ain't going to test it. and walks off. i'm like. :confused: then said **** you *****es.. in my head. lol so apparently no one in key west can test the alt for me.. great.. so i had to take the risk and just mount the alt. well i looked up a how to. followed insturctions while replacing all my belts and 3.5hrs later. it's in and running. no sparks no clicking nothing. seems to be working smoothly. though my meter on the car read it's max voltage at 14.1 for startup/warm up as the car reached it's warm up level and it started to idle like normal the voltage hovered around 14.0v i haven't taken the car out for a drive but so far it's charging at least. as fow how many amps it's producing i can't tell. i don't have a clamp meter so :/ tomorrow morning on my way to work and such i will keep my eye on my meter to see how the voltage is cooperating. hopefully the alt will last me. oh, did anyone else in florida look at the sun today??? that ring was crazy visible. took pictures behind my cars window tint so it would come out. the center of the sun had a black patch but didn't show up on the picture.:eek:

i believe so. what i am wondering is if they have or will be getting new updated flyers? i get alot of people wondering about the sub company after hearing the btl. i had 1 flyer but gave it away. i need more. if they got new updated ones it would be nice too.

i ran a pca2000d on a xxx15 for a few months. it was a great solid amp. didn't get warm and beat the chit out of my sub. after 3 months though it just fudgeed up and sent a DC signal to my sub. no clue as to why but it just went sour. compared to the power output of my sundown1500d the pca did better. it's not as efficient but still a good budjet amp.

yeah it's a 180. i needed an alt that didn't require any brackets to be made. this is the biggest EA could make so i took it. Irragi said they could make a 200amp which cost me i think $25 more but i decided to go to EA. i dono all these alt comanies are iffies. as for too much bass, i say it needs more.. i really wonder how it would flex if i actually ran 2 XXX 15's ported.

i have to take it to a plaec called R&R deisel. it's a place that works on alternators and marine alternators and electrical equipment along for industrial equipment. maybe they can test the alt before i put it in. oh, i left my kinetik on the trickle charger allllll day. lol i think my multi meters off.. lol

i did the trunk floor and hard to reach areas. since the box can not be removed i wanted to tackle those areas. after i get more deadening i will then take care of the trunk lid and the outer skin of the trunk walls. though i doubt seadening the trunk lid would save it from cracking. that's just brute flexing abuse onto that thin metal.

well at lunch time i went home and i saw a package sitting on my bed. i'm like wtf is this i'm not expecting anything other than an amp that i know wouldn't be here today. well i find it's my alternator so i'm like hell yeah! i open it up and take pics. so i take it to advanced auto and have them test the alt. they tested it but said there is something wrong with it. something that it wasn't charging sufficiently. the meter would jump up to 10v but not much past it. i don't know what rpm rate they tested it at but i asked if they could tell me what rpm rate it's at and if he could up the rpm rate. he said he couldn't tell but that it should be sufficient enough to make any alternator charge properly. so i take it to Napa and ask if they could tell me if they can test the load. they tell me they will end up having a problem testing it due to it being an HO alt. that when he puts the information into their system they would end up having to set the system to rate an 05 stock civic alt with an 80amp load. but then it starts juicing 180amps it would show errors. they recommended me to take it to another place that works on industrial vehicles and they might be able to test it's load output. has anyone ever come across this when trying to test a high output alt at any of these comercial areas?

yeah my friends neighbor works on cars and scooters at home and welds. he wants me to build him an enclosure for his truck. so i'll talk to him about seeing if he can weld the weekspot. i was thinking of cutting out a portion of that area and welding thicker metal. but i have a feling that overall it won't help too much unless the entire trunk's metal is thick.

well, i ended up having to remove my hc2400 to get access to my ap1040. i pulled it out and siwtched the speaker outputs to make sure it wasn't the speaker wire. after the switch it turned out the right channel outputs aren't working properly. so now i has a gimp amp. lol i already hoped on it and ordered a new Kicker ZX450.2. should ship out monday so for now i'm at another standing point with the system. i need to look for a new engine bay battery. i had to go to advanced auto today and without a second battery in the trunk starting the car felt like my battery in the bay was dead. though it's not it just doesn't have the cranking power it used to have when there were more batts. so my question is does anyone know what kinetik battery size would fit a group 51 battery size for my honda? depending on cost i may just go buy a yellow top. well here is the area that's cracking up on the trunk it;s where the bars that hold the trunk meet the trunk. the metal is kinda thin and the flexing the trunk is causing has well, caused it to crack. wou can't see it in these pics. it's really visible if you see it in person. if i open the trunk all the way i can just wiggle the lid and hear the crack's metal just squeeking as it rubs itself. lol.