Smondo17

Is the 800prs just a newer model and black? Are there any real differences?

Helping out a friend. He currently has an alpine 9887 headunit and wants to run active. I suggested for him to get a sundown 50.4, sea neo tweeters and the mli-65 mids. He also wants to run coaxials off his headunit for the rear. Would that cause any problems other then throwing off the sound stage?

ANL fuse is on the way. I blew out the front fuse and everything works. Thanks for all the help

Got the system up and running and upgrading my alpine mono amp with a sundown 1000d. Sub amp is disconnected right now. Gains on my 100.4 are set very moderately. Around volume 44 on my 800prs my speakers will shut off. There is no pop or to the ear sounds of distortion. I just drove back up to college and did not get any times of cut off. It has happened on both cds and ipod. Could i just be playing it to loud? Also, i have a d3100 up front and the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge. Any ideas would be very appreciated. Best Regards, Steve

Haha if it comes down to some salt im gana have to laugh at all this. I go to school in Boston and just recently drove up here. We had alot of snowstorms recently. When i drove up my system was working great. Im going to look into this salt issue. I really appreciate all the help. This has been a frustrating problem, but i sure did learn alot of problem solving techniques. Lets just hope this is it!

1. That is the amp from Jacob. Said it was tested and works good 2. Will have to look into the ANL fuse holder. Im pretty sure that one just snaps in. 3. Not sure about the chassis paint for the ground. It never gave me a problem before. That connection is right into the floor under the seats. 4. Ill have to snap another picture of the positive terminal. Question thought. If i was running 2 amps before and did not have a ground of power issue can they just randomly give you problems? Or when i blew my power supply because my right mid grounded on the door chassis could that have caused this problem also?

For power I have 0/1 gauge running from the battery to a distribution block then 4 guage to the amps. Then for the ground i have 4 guage running to a common bolt ground to the chassis. I have a picture but having problems uploading them.

not sure if the picture worked, but i just went out to my car with my volt meter and tested it. Very sharp drop in volts when it cuts out. Went from 14.2v to 3volts. I tested the remote line at the same time and it was still where it normally its (13.8volts).

I did hook up an ipod to both amps and i got the sub amp to cut out. I didn't have the volt meter but i will try that next. I'll take pictures also.

bump

I tried what you said. Disconnected remote line and jumped it. Tried it on my speaker amp first and everything seemed fine. Also gave it a try on my sub amp and i got it to shut off. Bad ground or power? I honestly don't know what that means. How would i test that? Why would they work then shut off if that is the case? Also the red light never comes on for protect. Does that matter? Is it suppose to come on when the amps shut off? Or do they just completely shut down? Sometimes they reset quickly sometimes it takes awhile.

Will do. I have a feeling though that it must be the headunit. I sent it in to get repaired at United Electronics after i had that horrible power supply blow. The headunit blew a fuse and was causing a horrible ground loop. Other then that the system was working great and nothing changed. So that is why this problem is pissing me off. Ill get to this test by tomorrow. Thank you very much for your help.

Do you mean voltage drop through the remote line? Because the power to both amps was the read the same as the power up front with the battery. I dont have any speakers hooked up to the deck. Also both amps just turn off. they dont go into protect. When i disconnected my mids my tweeters were still connected and both the amps turned off. So i should keep the headunit connected but disconnect the remote lines then jumper with a wire from power to remote?

Ok so i tested the input and power levels today. Randomly the amps turned back on. The volts at both amp inputs were 13.5 and the power was 14.2. Volts up at the battery was also 14.2. So this is where i stand now. Already disconnected both mids but the speakers still cut out. Disconnected the sub amp all together and still cut out. I also turned the gain of the sub amp all the way and it did not shut off until 40 out of 60 volume.

sounds great. i really appreciate all your input. ill let you know what i find out.

I received the volt meter today. Will test it tomorrow. Just want to make sure of a few things. Test the volts when the car is on? Should i have anything unplugged? When testing the remote line do I touch where the wire enters the amp? Do i use both the positive and negative ends of the volt meter?

Ill have my dad send me the volt meter. So i should test all the remote terminal power and ground? Even if there is no sound or lights on with the amps?

also now my amps don't turn on after this last cut out. no lights or anything.

I tried the test run. Turned the gain on my sub amp up. It did not cut out until middle volume and there was heavy distortion. Also got an Error 12 on the headunit while on CD. Not sure if that is just a read error.

They share common grounds and power. Ok so that is a good start. How does a ground go bad? I recently just got my headunit fixed. How can i check my ground or power connections? My right mid grounded blew my power supply in my amp and fuse in my headunit. So this problem could have also caused problems with the connections even if they were fine before it? I disconnected my mids to see if there was a short in the line and both the amps go into protect however comes back on quicker.

If my mid is shorting out. Would that cause both the sub and speaker amp to go into protect?

I am going to go to autozone and have a test done. Then start with the speakers to see if it is shorting. The protect lights dont go on when they shut off. Does this tell us anything?

I appreciate the brainstorming. My right mid just suffered from a freak accident and came out of its baffle causing to blow my power supply and a fuse in my headunit. So i feel its a good place to start. How do you test a speaker? Disconnect and see if the problem still happens?

Installed my new 1000d. Sounds great. Speakers cut out a few times at lower volume then 40. However, they came back on quicker. Would getting my alternator checked be a good start? The only reason i am confused about this is my charging system is handling my system very well. My lights don't dim and my battery meter stays at a steady level.