garychurch84

Running my two ICON 12's on a Memphis pr1.500.1@ 2 ohms still shakes the hell out of my car

Welcome to SSA!!! Alot of knowledge here...best on the web IMHO!!!

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.you can use the rear battery as a distro blockrun to rear batter straight from front battery no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot. agreedSo if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?Edit...stupid phone autocorrect If both are agms should be fine! Good deal...looks like they fit the bill. So a run of 1/0 from front batt directly to the back batt. From there my runs (with proper in line fusing) to amps. Correct? Sounds good

For what its worth! I use lead acid batteries in the front and rear of my car! Few companys have cars w/battery in trunk off of showroom floor with lead acid batteries( bmw) for one.Ventilation is key.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.you can use the rear battery as a distro blockrun to rear batter straight from front battery no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot. agreedSo if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?Edit...stupid phone autocorrect If both are agms should be fine!

Me either,but It isnt going to hurt anything! Just added protection!

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot. you can use the rear battery as a distro block run to rear batter straight from front battery no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot. agreed

fusing is a good thing!!! If something went wrong an your charging wire went to ground then you would be glad you fused it. dead shorts will draw all the amps possible causing all kinds of problems! melted wire,blow fuse(if fused)fried alt etc

fusing only protects against ampres,not voltage

Fuseing is to protect the wire etc,however your alt could go bad bad and have a voltage spike...which could send who knows how much voltage through your electrical system,frying pcms,relays,headligjys etc.

Then your drawing more current than you fused for. With that being said I didnt fuse my alt either!

That shit is going around...Had friend here the other day that had it..The heat dont help any either

still noreply...looks like I need to give them a shot nem!

Looking good bro....dont over exert yourself...it's been terribly hot around these parts lately!!

Thanks nem,I'll look into it. I emailed a company about one already currently awaiting for a reply

Maybe so,if I can find somewhere that sells the relay.Probably end up selling it if I get it fix,not much of a memphis fan

http://vid1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag182/ravenchurch/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_20140819_082016_327_zps3130515e.mp4

The amp powers on fine,its the output that cuts in and out. I have a video if I can ever get it uploaded to photobucket,I'll post it.

I pulled the cover,reinstalled the amp,while it was playing I tapped around on a few components when I got to the relay it started acting up. It's a HANDOUK relay HA1-1C-12S

Im having a hard time getting pics uploaded to photobucket from my phone for some reason,I'll try again later.

I'll try to get it uninstalled today if the weather allows,rained on an off on me all day yesterday!

MECA i'd say a 58.6 and while fused a 57.4. It ain't easy at the head. That's true, few too many beers last night. Lmao I have that problem sometimes as well.lol Nice scores Senchez!!