skress
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Everything posted by skress
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I currently have a Q12 in a 1.35 sealed enclosure powered by a Cadence TXA-1000d. It sounds really good right now, but I cant help but think this sub can handle a couple hundo more watts on a constant basis. Am I right that it can handle more or is it just wishful thinkin?
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Cadence TXA-1000d. I was clipping it so bad the felt underneath melted and the dreaded tinsel slap reared its ugly, obnoxious as hell self. So, I grabbed some new felt soaked it with some spray adhesive and showed that tinsel slap whose boss! Now, its all peachy and kicks mucho a$$! I just wish I knew the true rms of the amp to set the gain to the max w/o clippin it.
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I have a Q 12 in a sealed box powered by a Cadence TXA-1000d. I'll listen to some bass heavy music for a bit, then when I get wherever I'm going I will check the sub on occasion and the cone is pretty dam hot! what would be causing this?
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Not that Ive noticed. Does the sub start makin funky noises when that happens?
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What about an analog one, I think I have one of those layin round somewhere. If that would work would you be so kind as to describe that procedure so I can get this set up right?
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What about the use of the remote bass knob?
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What would you suggest set them at?
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Thats probably what it is because, depending on the music, my voltage drops can drop considerably. I'm waiting for some extra cash to purchase a HO alt and do the big 3 which should definitely help my chituation
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Yup thats the amp. My first one was DOA and they sent me a new one. I have the gain set at about 80% and the bass boost at abt 50% on average. Would a clipped signal cause it to get hot? The reason I ask is that my system drains the hell out of my electrical system. So, when the voltage drops, it sends a "dirty" signal, correct? If thats true, would this "dirty" signal cause the sub to get hot? I can't afford one o those and I wouldnt know anyplace that would have one to use. Any other suggestions?
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I currently am running 2 amps, 1 for comps and 1 for sub. It totals 1300rms. So, I would need about a 130a fuse as a estimate, correct? I'm gonna upgrade the big 3 and get a HO alt. I don't really know jack about amps and all that. My question is, can somebody help me figure out what size alt to get? Would a 200a be sufficient? I drive a 97 Exploder 6cyl and I think the stock alt is 95a. Any help is greatly appreciated
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power drain issues
skress replied to skress's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
The amps are a Phoenix gold R8.0:4 and a Cadence TXA 1000d and it drains power really good. So, I could probably get away with the big 3 and maybe a 200 amp alt if the big 3 doesnt do it? -
Yup, we just happened to have an old one that we used to sell, my boss just let me have it for free.
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I just got my Fi Q12 and my Cadence TXA-100d amp yesterday and proceeded to hook it up in my Exploder. It is a 2ohm DVC sub which means that if I wire it in parallel it would be a 1 ohm load, right? I wired it according to this http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/...hmto1ohm7rq.jpg diagram. When I hooked the amp up, I just removed my old amp and hooked all the wires up to where they are supposed be on the new one. One would think that this shouldn't cause any problems, but it did. I can't get any noise out of the sub. I also have a PG amp powering my front and rear speakers. The power wire goes from the battery to the Cadence amp to the PG amp. The remote goes from the HU to the Cadence to the PG. Each amp, obviously has its own ground. The PG amp still works fine which means that the Cadence amp is getting power. The green light on the top is also on, which I assume means it should be good to go, right? If the ground on the Cadence was shorted wouldn't the red status light come on? Also, if the ground on the Cadence is shorted would that have any adverse effect on the PG amp? Any troubleshooting help would be friggin' awesome!
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So, I went out and tested the amp a little. I put the black one on the ground and the red on the power wires and the dial went farther left than it already is? wtf does that mean?
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Yup, I just got one. What should I check and what am I looking for, pardon my noobness but ive never used one o these before.
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Yeah, thats what I thought. It was supposedly put in "professionally" but the guy was a douchebag, who didnt seem to know much as he should. I plan on getting a distro block.
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Yes, I did disco the power first. What is a DMM?
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I'm looking for a tool that will allow me to cut the holes for the speaker, the terminal on the side and also some sanding to smooth the edges. If someone could point me in the direction of some affordable drill attachments and sanders to finish this job, that would be awesome! Thanks, Mo
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Hello all. I'm getting ready to purchase a Fi Q 12 and a Candence TXA-1000d amp and I was wondering what the optimum enclosure would be for my application. I drive a 97 2dr Exploder, and listen to rock/metal.......lotso heavy stuff. I want the sub to sound as clear as possible when hitting the bass lines and bass drum and still have a nice thump too. So, if anyone has any ideas for specs for me that would be frickin' fantastic! Thanks, Mo
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Sorry bud but I think ur links busted
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Thanks dude, that helps alot!! Is that 1.0 ft3 after sub displacement or before? What would the dimensions of each panel be?
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Im looking to get a good SQ setup. Ive narrowed my options to the SSA Icon 12 or a Fi Q 12. Whichever one I get will be powered by a Cadence TXA-1000D amp. I cant decide on which one, hopefully somebody here will be able to help me decide. I listen to hard rock/metal almost exclusively and I drive a 97 2 dr Exploder. So, which has the best SQ with the most output? Thanks, Mo Also, if I get the BP option on the Fi Q and still just run that same amp would it make a difference?