cubdenno

I am not knocking alts in this reply because they are needed BUT... Even if you add a 200 amp alt, the majority of power comes from your battery. The alt is just a battery charger. Yes the alt can power your cars electrical components but again it still comes down to the battery. Adding a low resistance battery or a second one will help your system with dimming lights etc. I am not saying this to start a fight or get booed off the forum but I do believe it to be true.

Glad you could find a couple of them. 2500d??? As for more power, I only have an 80 amp alt, and stock battery. I still need to add the orion 900.2 on my midbass and the rf 200a4 on the tweets. the 500a2 is going to drive the midranges. Yes I know a strange mix of amps but I already had them collecting dust in the closet. But I figure I will add a batcap800 to help supplement the power delivery. I thought about passive but waited to long and was unable to order from TC. Audiopulse has them, but way to pricey for me if they even have them in stock. Plus, as sad as it makes me, I would wait a while to order to see if they stay solvent. I went a little higher than 32 hz cause it yielded me a little more efficiency and since most music is above 35 hz it didn't matter to me. but I did model that particular box. Booom.

Chad, I used WinISD to model several boxes. I am going to make a 1.75 cubic ft sealed and give it a 2db bump at 31.5 htz with the parametric eq function of the H701. Of course it doesn't have the output of the ported but the space savings will or rather should make my wife happy though unlikely (she is a woman and they come out of the box unhappy). Mine sits in the trunk so port noise is not an issue. In a truck it may be a different story. God they are a sexy speaker. I wish TC was still...... reliable to purchase from. As you know the speaker is a beast. And the sound out of the ported box is awe inspiring from a single speaker set up for music. I bet you sealed box is just bad assed as it goes so low!

Sorry. No pics as of yet. At least none showing box with amps etc. Nothing is mounted yet. I work under the constraints that my wife provides. It's like this: I travel all week for my job and do the installation at my work because they have everything I could ever need and it's a constant 70 degrees in the shop. So on Sunday after noon... "Baby, I want to go work on the system." "OK. It's noon be back by five."

Worked on the car stereo yesterday. To date, I have the Alpine CDA-9884 with the RUX-C701/PXA-H701 processor/ controller combo installed. I ran the main 1/0 power wire from the stock battery in my 06 Toyota Solara. I sealed my sub box and installed the sub. I wanted to hear the sub before I finished the appearance portion of the box. It is a dual 2 ohm VC wired in Parallel for a 1 ohm load. I have not installed a permanent ground point on the chassis so mounted a temporary 4 gauge wire to a seat lug that sees a resistance of 1.4 ohms. Voltage at the Distribution block when the car is running is 14.1 volts. Th ground is very temporary but also very securely fastened. All gains are at the lowest. No bass boost of any kind. With the volume low I played some test tones. The processor shuts off which in turn shuts off the amp. I have the amp receiving its remote turn on from the processor. I tried some music and while it would play it whenever a bass note whether it was a kick drum or bass guitar/synth note the display of my Controller would dim and or shut off. Volume of the sub was very low like could barely hear it. It was late, I was tired so I have not done anything today as of yet. I will wire the sub for a 4 ohm load. I will give the amp its own dedicated turn on. Does anybody have any ideas? If I still have issues, I will use a different sub to check the amp as well as check all fuses. I will also try my midbass amp on the sub as a way to take the amp out of the equation. I was hoping to not have to upgrade my electrical supply for not competing music listening and the occasional jam session. I will be running the Sundown SAZ 1500D for sub bass power. The Orion 900.2 for midbass power. The RF 500a2 for midrange and the RF 200a4 for tweets.

i think that bat caps are close to useless.... to me! ok i kinda feel foolish. i have never checked my grounds for ohms...... how should i do that? Well what I did to check was when I mounted my "temporary" ground, I attached one lead of my fluke 87 to the end of the temp ground cable and a lead to the place of bare metal where I drilled through the firewall (this was as far as my leads from my meter would reach) and using the "ohms" setting checked resistance. I thought it was high but supposed that it wouldn't matter in the short run. IT DID! As for batcaps, I want the abilities of both a second battery and a large capacitor to supply the extra power this behemoth (for me) system will need occasionally. I have heard good things about the batcap. I think even on this forum there was a reference to them.

Sorry I forgot to mention that the pemanent ground will in fact be 1/0 wire as well. In fact I will most likely run a dedicated ground from the battery as I am thinking of having a Batcap to help maintain. I used the 4 gauge as a quick and dirty method of allowing me to listen to the sub. Looks like it really came back and bit me in the ass.

I will add the relay. Currently though just have the 701 and the sundown running. I am suspecting the ground is the issue. Others have pointed it out as well. I need to find the spot where I will mount the permanent ground anyway.

No not a bandpass. Sorry was unclear. I just made a plug that seals the port. It bolts to the box and fills/covers the port slot. Sorry I was unclear.

Any of you guys have a box suggestion? will be running sub 60 and down. Would like an LSQ set up. I have 8" midbass drivers. Can't really find box recommendations from TC.

It was delivered yesterday to my work. I opened it up today. It. is BEAUTIFUL!!!! Sure, it is used (I bought it from Jacob's resale link.), but in great condition. Comes with the 1 year warranty and the remote gain adjust. I can't wait to incorporate it into the system I am getting ready to install in my car. Jacob was fantastic to deal with. He talked me through a paypal transaction. Just to not sound like a dumbass I had never done that before. He shipped it fast before he left for the CES. I doubt I get it in the car for a while as the doors have to be done/deck installed. Plus I have to find a place for it. Anyway, all of the stories regarding the customer service of this company and of Jacob are very true if not understated.

Thanks for the input and the web page! Looking at making a sealed/ported box. What is that you ask? Well it will be a ported enclosure tuned to 35hz. WinISD says 3.1 cubic ft. I will make a plug to seal the port so that I have a sealed enclosure in the 3.5 cube range. And with a parametric EQ at 30hz with 4-6 db of boost should be fairly flat to 20 hz in a room. So may not even need that in a car. I have the DVC. Mr. Bateman, What kind of volume should I expect with this combo? How about sound quality? My system will consist of BG planar speakers the Neo 3 as my tweeters and the Neo 8's as the midrange. I will be using Dayton RS225 8" midbasses in the doors. So I am hoping that this 15 will mesh well with the other speakers. I would love to hit close to 140 with the right music. High 130's with normal stuff. And still sound great.

They are a "handsome" amp. I like the simple aesthetics. Not into gawdy chrome and LEDs. And I think I liked the way it felt substantial. Had a little weight to it. What kind of subs?

Whoops!!!! Yes the SAZ-1500D. Typo I think. Or was just thinking of the smaller type amps.

I think this will be my last try to get some information. So you folks are my last hope to help or point me in a different direction. Here is my question. If I want to build a box of X cubic feet and there is not enough space where I want to build, can I build another box and have the two boxes attached by pipe or tube or sealed passage way etc.. Example: I would like to build a box in the right rear most corner of my trunk but there is only 1.5 cubic feet of space available if I build the box, and my sub needs 3 cubic feet. But if I built a mirror replica of the enclosure and installed it on the left rear most corner of my trunk and connected them by... I don't know, let's say 3" X 7" ID 1/4" wall steel tubing or 8"PVC, just something while keeping everything without leaks,and accounting for the additional airspace of the connective passageway, would this allow me the air space for my woofer? I remember seeing a sub box in an S10 regular cab. The box was one solid piece but had two chambers connected by a thinner section. It held 1 10 inch sub behind the driver and was ported behing the passenger. Amp was mounted in the middle which was why it was thinner. If I remember right (this is years ago) he said internally there was 2 inches of spaceseperating the rear wall of the box from the front wall of this portion of the box. Sounded Ok. Or rather nothing stands out in memory that it was horrible. We are talking about the days of the punch 150 etc. So i have slept a time or two. I would really like to build the two rear corner enclosures and connect them by a passageway at the rearmost of the trunk. Instead of a normal boring box. I just don't want to waste time and money (mostly time) and find out that using a passive radiator and this configuration is a bust.

Sorry was in Jacksonville until last night. Now I am outside Atlanta and am leaving for knoxville tomorrow. I do engineering work for a company that supplies steelmills. I most likely will be back in Illinois either late tomorrow or Tuesday. Thanks for the offer though.

Yeah I meant Danville Il. I appreciate you being wiiling to audition the amp. Its hard to find good equipment anymore. And the good stuff I read about is harder to find locally to even listen to. I will get in touch when I am back in the state.

AlpineAndy, I live outside of Danville. Would it be possible sometime to listen to your amps? Am in Florida right now for work. I got my sub already (TC3000 15"dvc) And am looking at Audiopulse (TC Sounds) components or Hybrid Audio components (which I am going to listen to when I swing by Hybrid Audio on the way home). I have been salivating over the SAZ1500D since I discovered Sundown. Aside from good sound my only other goal is to hit above 140. I have a dream! Thanks! Cub

Hello, New to the forum, got turned on to it by a guy on the last forum I was a member of (audio-neon was his screen name). I am slowly buying up the components of my yet to be installed system. I have my sub (TCSOUNDS TC3000 15" DVC). I have my deck (Eclipse 3100) Xover (Audio control EQX) and the Epicenter. I ordered 1/0 wire 30ft of power and ground. I have done the big 3 already and have power and ground run directly from the engine bay to the trunk. I have a 3.2cubic foot sealed (2.6 cubic ft ported tuned to about 28 hertz) box built. I am leaning toward some CDT Components for the rest of my speakers. I have a zapco Z400c4 amp I am also leaning toward running the front stage as it is already mine. I was going to run my old Hifonics ISIS on the sub but was told it would not power the 15 adequately. Sooo I am looking to upgrade the whole subwoofer amp experience. I am looking at the SAZ 1500D. If I run stock electrical (100 amp alternator) is this going to be a major issue. I upgraded the battery to a DIEHARD Platinum. Do I need an extra battery back near the amp? Or (I have been out of car stereo for a while) will my Autosound 2k Cap work alright. Any input would be appreciated. Cub

Thanks for all the input. I really do appreciate it. As for talking bass. Anybody can get some bass. A friend of my boy, comes over all the time and I have to fix his wiring. Two mismatched subs with a lightning audio amp a nice pioneer deck and 1 5 1/4 speaker upfront and that has a torn surround. I have not removed the door panels. So do not know any of the mounting depths. I had also thought about putting a 7 or an 8 in the doors. QLogic makes a generic kick panel kit that might work for me. They do not make a vehicle specific one for an 06 Solara coupe. I am intrigued about the tweeters in the windshield sail panel. But was contemplating that one as an imaging set up. With midwoof in door, say a dome midrange in the dash and the tweet up high, won't the image crash to the floor everytime there is a low vocal? Now that you all have me thinking active, I do have a Fosgate A500.2 (125X2) sitting in the closet. That would drive the midwoof pretty well. And the Zapco could drive the mids and tweets. Or I could run Passive and bridge the Zapco to two channels and give the mid/tweet combo 300 watts a channel. I have an old Orion 900.2 but that is a little harsh. And the phoenix Gold MPS 2240 just does not have enough ass to it for what I want to do.Ouch!! My brain hurts. Have been looking at Parts express. Wow they have a lot more drivers than I remember. Cub

Well, considering I was not planning on kick panels to start with, They would be off axis in the doors. I was going to use the dash mounts for a set of tweets to bring up the soundstage. Hell, we used to do this way back when. We would wire them in with a pot. They would be crossed over fairly high. Anyway, I am a huge fan of parts express. I still have my first catalog from like 94 or 95 (I am a packrat!) So lets see. Off axis is the way the speakers will be mounted at least at first. If I go to a 3 way (Mid bass, mid range, tweeter) I will have to construct some kick panels. This of course takes time that is a precious commodity. I travel a lot! In fact heading to Florida for a couple of weeks in September. I am also remodeling my house. I spend as much time with my kids as possible so Car stereo work is only when I can squeeze it in. Thanks for the recommendation of the sound deadener. Go ahead and shoot me some decent speaker models if you have the time. Cub

Ahhhhhhh... Another midbass nut. So am I. In fact I used to have these 5 1/4 B&W Midbass drivers that were amazing.how I got them and what I paid is even more amazing. They got stolen in 97. Right after that I got out of Car audio. Sorry, I didn't go into the EQX. I can do about any crossover point. Just have to make the modules. As for rear fill, I was just going to throw some speakers in for extra sound. I do not plan on competing so the whole front soundstage is not as important as it used to be. But I do want it loud and crystal clear for every type of music. I have been looking at doing an active system this time around. The speaker companies I have been looking at have been Morel, Dynaudio, (obviously at this point) CDT, and Focal. I still think i got a set of Kef's around. UniQ's I think. Have to check my attic. Also why i have been looking at the DQXS. Its capabilities would allow me to run all active. Of course I would have to get kick panels. ARGH!! You people are costing me more money. Of course my kids are getting chubby. Missing a few meals won't hurt to bad. And if by chance the department of child services takes them, they will feed them. HEY! I got a plan now! My two buddies run Boston's in their car. I have always been a Boston fan. My buddies pro 12.54s are still great sounding subs. Of course all of our equipment is of an older nature. He runs 4 Phoenix gold MS275's. I just want to do something different. Anyone can go to one of the big electronic marts and throw a big Fosgate amp and a couple of 12's in a Q Logic box in the back of their SUV. I am looking for more. Thanks for a little explaining of the amp type difference or rather lack of them sonically. I just wondered. Yeah, 1500 bucks is what I have left after buying wire, wood and that big damn sub. I drive a Toyota Solara coupe. It has 6X9's in the doors and rear deck. And 2 1/2's in the dash. I do need to buy a dash kit for the deck but that is just pennies. It helps I still have the Zapco amp. That frees up a large part of my budget. Oh and I still need to buy sound deadener. Dynamat or some derivative. Thanks for the guidance. Cub

Ok, to answer some questions, I have 70 hertz as the crossover frequencies both high and low pass. and the slope is 24db/oct Subsonic is at 18 hertz. I do have a 25 hertz module to change if necessary. I am looking at the DQXS though. But it will really be an after everything else is purchased item. Just so you know, I have a set of Boston Pro 6's and the pro 4.0's Also have a set of the MB Quart 3 ways 6 1/2- 4- tweet. All of these are from the early to mid nineties. I was just wanting to get new. So what is wrong with the CDT stuff. I was looking for something different than what is around me. Ilive in central Illinois. Stereo shops have pretty much gone the way of the DODO. And I refuse to purchase from Best City or Circuit Buy. What is wrong with the Epicenter? Why is it now days Capacitors are so out of fashion? I was looking at Zapco's site and for their 9.0 Comp amp they recommend a large capacitor. Which brings me to a question about Sundown amps. How does their sound compare to a Class AB amp. Sound qualitywise that is. I know they put out a god awful amount of power. And this would be obviously for the subwoofer. If you were budgeting 1500 bucks for a sub amp and front stage speakers and rear fill what would be recommended? Thanks for the advice Cub