cubdenno

Dave... Mr. Brooks... feel free to comment any time. I have been following your truck for quite awhile. Almost got to see it last year when I passed through Georgia at the IASCA finals. Scott was going to get me in because I was looking at the HAT model of speakers and wanted to listen to them. Unfortunately, I passed through on the Monday after finals... Anyway, I will post when I get it all done. My sub box is a monster and fills up my trunk. I just got it painted tonight after bondoing the screwholes and joints. I love truck bedliner. As for the differing RCA ends... yeah that explains it. Never figured on competing really so wasn't concerned about everything being the same and matching. But this local thing came up and my wife who is a crazy bass head and loves what the Sundown/TC combo produces wanted me to do it. MY WIFE!!! Can you all believe it?

No prob!! Knukonceptz. They were on sale as memory serves. I liked the way they looked. Have had good results with them. Three are 1 meter triple shielded yada yada blah blah blah, and the one going to the now missing Fosgate is a two meter lower line. My Sundown was supposed to be there but just did not have the room. I still need to build the cover for the rack but I travel for work and just can't seem to find time.

Forgot to mention it is just a local "Bass Wars" type of event.

I was looking for a battery to power my car and stereo and came across the flyer for the D3400. I have 3 amps: Sundown SAZ1500D, an Orion 900.2 and a diamond 400.4. Not looking to compete hardcore just an occasional local meet and daily driver. Just want a safe power source. I drive a Toyota Solara with factory battery and alt. Does the 3400 meet my needs?

Does the DQXS have time alignment? Just curious.

I used MDF from Menards. I looked at the same stuff at Lowes and HD. They were the same in appearance and texture. Just make sure its MDF and not Particle board. The guy saying to use 1 inch is right. I have a 15 and just cut an extra panel. using my jigsaw I cut out 4 small squares and used that as my main brace. It looks like a plus sign with a square around it of 1". My box does not flex at all. Was easy to figure displacement.

Obviously "good" is subjective. I like accurate myself. Some might call it dry, non boomy with very little overhang. Sorry, bad at descriptions. Unfortunately I have 4 other people who ride in my car that have a little bit of say in my hobby. So I found a middle ground and I can tolerate a little bit of boom with my ported enclosure. Besides, 140+ db just plain makes me crack up when I am playing the spl preset on my 701. Yes I understand that each woofer has differing specs and therefore differing efficiencies at producing certain frequencies The f3 of woofer brand a is X and the f3 of woofer brand b is Y. Sure I am oversimplifying but again I think most get my point. The T/S specs of two of the same brand make and model woofer can vary by what... 10% +-? Barring any mechanical noise (running a woofer with an Xmax of 5 and a woofer with an xmax of 20 may cause some clanging!! He he) So one must pay attention to that, but in the three 10's I believe the OP stated there wasn't THAT much of a difference. And how many people are going to be able to tell that you have 2 differing brands of 10 inch sub in a sealed enclosure in the trunk of a car? 5 out of a 100?

I am using a TC 3000 15 DVC (Audiopulse AXIS I believe) with my SAZ1500D. Freekin unreal output. I listen to a lot of rock with lots o double kick drum. Tight and Right. My boy likes rap. It rattled a friends kidney stone loose. Am sure any of your choices should work ok. Just maintain load @1 ohm and above. As for running woofs of differing makes, if you run them in individual sealed compartments, you should be fine for a temporary install. Yeah the woofs have different specs but 30 cycles is 30 cycles whether its an 6,8,10,12,15,18 etc... or its from brand a, b ,c ,d.... you get my point. Again, I stress, it will work fine if you keep the load on the amp in a safe area. The Sundown is a tank. Had a friend years back that ran 2 12's and 2 tens in a 4 compartment sealed enclosure. The 10's were of differing manufacturers and the 12's were the same manufacturer. So to recap he had 3 different brands and 2 different sizes regarding 4 woofers off of 1 amp an orion HCCA 225. Sounded fine. Tons of bass. Did he compete? no. If you are wanting to use what you got and keep the spending lots o cash down then run the three tens till you can get that third matching sub. Am sure I will get flamed with that answer. If anyone has an answer that can correct what I have stated above please do so so that I can update my points of reference. Always willing to learn new stuff. Also I understand speakers have differing specs, and running certain types of the same sized speakers impedance disregarded can cause damage to one of the drivers, but the listing he gave should be able to play togetherpretty well until he gets a matching speaker or totally upgrades altogether. just my 2 cents

Are there going to be more? I have my son convinced that 4 of them and a SAE1000 is the way to go.

After I read jakes results in I believe his father's truck, I wanted to try them in my boy's Mazda 3

One other question, Currently he has an old MTX box with 3 10's providing a 4 ohm load. What would a SAE1000 put out into a 4 ohm load realisticly?

The remote gain control for the SAZ 1500D. The cable that connects to the amp. Is it special or can I use any cable with RJ11 ends?

Sweet Love!!! thanks!

I won an auction last night on a Diamond audio 400.4 amp under a hundred shipped. Not familiar at all with the brand but had heard of it which is why I went ahead and got it. Any words of wisdom regarding the brand and amp?

Oh yeah. Never figured it to. But 92 bucks shipped.... Local store carries them. They got all excited about my inquiry. but just wanted info. May work for boys car. Now need to find subs and order a 1000.

Yeah I know this is the Sundown forum but you cats give great advice.

Build quality for starters. Have seen the Lanzars and hifonics. The sundowns are physically more substantial. The Sundown is an amazing amp. I purchased a used one myself. It is quite simply amazing with the woofer control. I am running it at 1 ohm on a single 15. Zero gain zero boost. Double kick drum is precise and tight. I know that customer service is thrown around a lot. jacob is truly "there for you" if there is a situation. Try to have the owner(s) of Lanzar,hifonics answer a question. Actions truly do speak louder than words so I will stop with the praise that has been spoken of on a ton of forums about Sundown. Pretty sure I have not seen any bad remarks about other products when asked about from Jacob. Another trait that to me speaks volumes about his character.

Hey guys, Just for the record I do own, use and love a SAZ1500D. This was asked by my son's friend after seeing my amp, and listening what it could do powering my TC3000. He is planning a dual 10 inch box, has not bought woofers as of yet. true power output sound quality/control of woofers power delivered requirements (Stock Mazda 3 electrical) Is there a reason one of you gents and/or ladies would buy one or the other? I am posting this question because for a dealer specific forum, I have seen some very non biased responses. Also leave out the excellent customer service part of Jacob. I have tried to use that with this kid and it doesn't work. He is interested in boom. And boom only. At least he is letting me somewhat guide him with explanations that fall with in the general laws of physics. I have steered him away from 3000 wat amps that have 50 amps of fuse. And this sub puts out 1000 watts. Sigh...

Are you putting the PowerMaster in your trunk, or just replacing the stocker. The only reason you would run a ground from your battery to your trunk is if you're adding a second battery. I will be replacing my stock battery with the Powermaster. I am waiting to see if it will eliminate my dimming issues when cranked. Of course I am waiting for the D3400 to be released. As for the big 3, I am not a proponent of the big 3. I upgrade the grounds but that is it. Adding a bigger positive from the alternator bypasses some safety engineered into the system. Plus what does it add? Unless you have upgraded your alternator, the wire gauge has been sized to the particular output of the alternator. Bigger wire will not increase the output. Yes yes, I know it may possibly lower the resistance. But rather doubt that it will dramatically improve the charging capacity of the alternator on that short of a run. As for running the ground to the trunk... I had a noise issue. No matter where I tried to ground, noise entered the system. I ran a ground from the head unit to the rear as well. As a last resort, I went ahead and ran the 1/0 to the rear. Also because I was thinking I may have to add a second battery. When all was hooked up, the noise dissappeared!!! Plus I noticed that the voltage drop was less at the amp. So now I figure it is a cheap (reletively speaking if you add are able to remove potential time wasted on having to troubleshoot finding a ground loop or noise issue) and easy addition to the install. The wire isn't sized for the alternator, but the draw of the vehicle. Adding an amp changes that draw a TON. The alternator puts out a finite amount of current. Adding amplifiers does not change the amount of current the alternator puts out. An 80 amp alternator puts out 80 amp at a specific rpm (of the alternator) a 100 amp or 300 amp alternator does the same. If I put 3/0 wire on my 80 amp alternator it does not increase any capabilities of my alternator vs what came from the factory. YES increase the ground wire gauge from battery to chassis especially if you are chassis grounded. Adding amplifiers does chamge the overall electrical system draw, but that is what the battery supplements.

Thanks for the info on the PDX. That may be able to allow me to convince him. Plus we picked up an 04 Mazda 3 for my boy last night. So we will most likely be able to show him when my boy gets his system up and going. I will insist on the SAE 1000. And I can attest to the tank like nature of the sundown amps with my SAZ 1500D.

Are you putting the PowerMaster in your trunk, or just replacing the stocker. The only reason you would run a ground from your battery to your trunk is if you're adding a second battery. I will be replacing my stock battery with the Powermaster. I am waiting to see if it will eliminate my dimming issues when cranked. Of course I am waiting for the D3400 to be released. As for the big 3, I am not a proponent of the big 3. I upgrade the grounds but that is it. Adding a bigger positive from the alternator bypasses some safety engineered into the system. Plus what does it add? Unless you have upgraded your alternator, the wire gauge has been sized to the particular output of the alternator. Bigger wire will not increase the output. Yes yes, I know it may possibly lower the resistance. But rather doubt that it will dramatically improve the charging capacity of the alternator on that short of a run. As for running the ground to the trunk... I had a noise issue. No matter where I tried to ground, noise entered the system. I ran a ground from the head unit to the rear as well. As a last resort, I went ahead and ran the 1/0 to the rear. Also because I was thinking I may have to add a second battery. When all was hooked up, the noise dissappeared!!! Plus I noticed that the voltage drop was less at the amp. So now I figure it is a cheap (reletively speaking if you add are able to remove potential time wasted on having to troubleshoot finding a ground loop or noise issue) and easy addition to the install.

Out of curiosity why does SPL and SQ have to be polar opposites? If you are not straining your speakers in a SQ set up and you add more power, shouldn't you by definition still have the same SQ but with more spl? I agree that for most, adding one or the other does in fact decrease one whether it be the SQ portion or the actual SPL. I listen to rock mostly. Been to over 200 concerts in my day. My car accurately reproduces concert volumes and then some crystal clear. Not trying to start a fight but just curious about the answer. I guess what I am trying to say is that yes if you add megawatts and multi woofers for bass and do not do the same type of upgrades for the rest of the speakers then yeah SPL at the expense of SQ. I use a TC3000 15" powered by a SAZ 1500D in a ported enclosure tuned to 35 htz. I have 8" mid bass drivers in my doors receiving 250 watts apiece. BG planar mids on axis in the kick panels receiving 150 watts and BG planar tweets on axis in the dash receiving 100 watts apiece. Time alignment Xover and EQing being taken care by an Alpine H701. Gets plenty loud in the mid 140's. Loud enough to pop my trunk seal. Can it sound like crap? You betcha!! But with the right adjustments it plays beautiful. The Holly Cole trio is amazing at ear bleeding volumes. My boy's rap is just plain rediculous even set up for Holly. Just wanted to describe what I am using so you understand my reference point. A system can be super loud and sound great without fooking with the bass boost or making a fart cannon enclosure. Hopefully I did not step on toes. God knows a lot of you like M5 have been extrememly helpful to me on my system by answering all of my questions. cub

OK, not sure about why the electrical should not suffice? Again for comparisons sake I drive a toyota w/ stock electrical (80 amp alt stock battery) and with music (not rap) it does fine . some light dimming. With rap the lights appear to go brown. He he. I am going to upgrade to a Powermaster battery. I just figured that the 1000 would not put that huge of a strain along with a four channel amp to power the other speakers. Yes I will make sure 1/0 wire is run to the trunk area. Will also most likely run a dedicated 1/0 ground from the battery as well to the trunk. I am pushing him to get the SAE 1000. Now my son is also looking at the same car so will hopefully be pushing him same direction.

Getting ready to do a similar project in a friends car. We are going with a pro audio woofer with high sensitivity and low watts. Using a highpass at the real low (just under the tuning frequency to protect the speaker) it should be surprisingly loud. It is a 15 inch driver. Try the Selenium SWS 600 or 800 models. About a 150. Yes they are 8 ohm or rather 6.4 ish. Won't mess with the amp and will still be loud! Box size isn't crazy either. 2.5-3 cubes.

All I can say is wow. No exclamation points. No Caps. They would not do it justice. I have no numbers regarding SPL as am not sure where I would go nearby. I have not swapped out the interior speakers yet but did hook all of the factory speakers to a RF 500a2. I ran a positive and negative cable run of 1/0 Knuconceptz Kolossus cable. As temp power I ran two 4 gauge cables to the positive of the amp and a 1/0 ground. Alpine cda 9884 cd receiver and the Alpine RUX-C701/PXA-H701 controller processor combo. The sub is in a ported enclosure kinda on the large side. 3.6 cubic feet tuned to between 35-40 hertz. Not quite sure as I need to do a little more to finish the box and will know the exact volume then. The amp controls the sub flawlessly. It hits hard and fast. Double kick is defined and my sons rap is eye opening. made me sneeze. I still need to put in the rest of the speakers and amps and most likely a seconds battery. I guess I want to extend thanks to Jacob for an excellent product at a fantastic price.