vice24

I just installed a 165 amp loadboss a couple of weeks ago and I really like mine. I actually made 180+ on the test sheet so I was really happy with it. Can't really beat it for the price. Imo http://www.4alterstart.com/highoutputalternators/

How much are your speakers moving?

I am getting some 5 1/4's for my mothers jeep 2006 Wrangler because her roll bar speakers sound like butt. I don't really want to spead more than $50 and have come across a few that I am curious about. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=13539 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=15582 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=16666 The problem is that she doesn't have an aftermarket cd player and I know that the stock radio is not putting out the best sound quality or power. But the front stage in her car sounds great and looks like it has a seperate tweet and speaker. Then you at the roll bar speakers and they are the cheap paper cone speaker with the paper wannabe tweeter cone that sits in the center of the speaker. So I know that any speaker with be an improvement but I dont want to buy something that I will not be able to power relatively well and sound ok. Any how if anyone knows of a good speaker that is cheap and will sound ok on a lower power head unit let me know. Thanks

yeah I am extremely happy with my 15" Q, It sounds soooooo good. you are not going to be dissapointed trust me! Good luck

It'd make a difference on a meter. And why go about the extra work of removing the stock stuff when it actually helps? Good point! looks like I will be leavin it on then. thank for the help.

When I have done installs on cars with fold down rear seats it always seemed to be louder with the subs and ports facing towards the rear. I dont think I have seen many (any) people point the port and the sub in different directions, I have seen the sub on the top and the port firing toward the rear. The best thing you could do is play with it. Try aiming the box different directions and see what sounds better. Almost every system I have installed was sub and port both aimed towards the back and it always seems to sound better.

When I did the big 3, I ran all new wire. There is no reason to run it parallel that I can think of. What size wire are you planning on using for the big3? I used all 1/0awg. I have used copper under the hood and have never had an issue with it. I am using 2 gauge wire. I just thought I should get a second opinion before I did it. My alternator wire in the jeep goes to a big fuse box so I am to sure if I should keep it or not. I guess the only thing I can do is just try it out and see if I have problems.

I was just wondering if anyone had used copper ring terminals for the ends of their wires when doing the big 3. I got a bunch of them for free but am a little worried about them corroding under the hood. Also I have read many times that when you do the big three to leave your original alternator wire and run a second line directly to the batt, but the Hi amp alt (165) that I bought says never to use the original just pig tail it and run a new 4 gauge or better wire directly to the battery. Let me know what you think its for a 1997 jeep cherokee.

I know that the SX1250.1 is 1 ohm stable... but I don't know about the rest of their amps. The problem is that with the low mounting depth you cut your options down a lot. I don't think that is deep enough for the FI's I think that the SSD 10 is around 6.5 deep and the 12's are a little more. I dont know a lot about the shallow subs out there... Maybe someone else can give you more help than me on that issue. I have never had to deal with a low depth problem.

Are you trying to go sealed or ported? A 1 ohm stable amp is important to have it gives you a lot more flexability on hook up options. The amps I see recomended on here often are Sundown, Kicker, and Rockford fosgate. All of those brands have amps that can do the power you are looking for and do it at 1 ohm stable.

My Q has soft felt on the back of the cone where the tinsel wires are near it. I think that would do away with any noise that you would hear. the Q will be so loud you would never hear that anyway! haha

Does anybody know where I could find some free wiring diagrams for installing car stereos? I install a lot of aftermarket cd-players for my friend because he owns a car lot and having a website that would show me what is what would really speed things up. I am about to put in a DVD screen into a 2001 Caddilac Deville and was wondering if anyone knew where i could find the diagram for the speakers wire colors. Any help will be appreciated. thanks

It's a standard formula. Yes it works. And yes, everyone who has designed a ported enclosure has used it. Even if they used a computer program to design the box, the program uses the same formula. Cool, I had just found a few other formulas out there while surfing and was curious if I had picked the wrong one by chance. Thank you for your help!

I found a formula that seems to work at http://www.caraudio911.com/ under designing a ported box. But I was wondering why on step four they say to subtract half the port width from the port lenght to get your physical port lenght? When I made my box I dont think that I did this so I may be building a new one if this is important. I was also wondering if this formula works or has been used by anyone here?

I have a 15" Q in a 4 cubic ft box tuned to 30 Hz and I love the sound. It sounds better than the two 12" Kicker L5's that I had prior to the 1 Q. It has more low end output and sounds a LOT more natural than the L5's. Don't worrie about the Q not getting loud enough my system is gut wrenching loud and can hit the lows with out a problem.