Polish

Thanks man and yea they sure are handy. I really need to hook up a proper test bench with leads, it would have made it even easier then. -Update for tonight, sorry but no video. Got it done a little too late, I'll try to do one tomorrow though. Still have the passenger seat out and need to finish up some stuff on the amp rack spot but it's in and playing. I only did a quick test without the car even on and it sounded good but I won't be able to give a full report until tomorrow. I will say that it was a TIGHT fit though. As you can see in the pics. Amp and box are like 1.5" apart. Can't even put my seat back as far as I want, but it's not off much. I can still slide the box back a bit but I wanna see how it sounds as is. Still can't believe it fit in through the hatch, I got nervous since I made it max dimensions but it slid right in no issues.

You may want to add whether they a D2 or D4 coils. Might help prospective buyers.

Very cool, I gotta get one of these really good cameras some day. Mine just gives up at anything over like 120db. The video quality is obviously far superior too. That setup is nasty for 3 18's too, very impressive.

Thanks man. I tested it with a small home stereo amp to make sure all was working and even with just a few watts there was a good amount of bass. I can't wait to hear it with some power. Here are a few more pics for the heck of it. I should have some video tomorrow.

Thanks man, appreciate it. It is freaking huge. -Update time- Got it finished up tonight. I will make sure it sounds decent before taking the time painting or carpeting the outside. 2 subs mounted. 4 subs mounted. All set to seal it up. Last time I'll see the face of the subs for a while, well unless it sounds like crap but lets hope it gets down. All sealed up, looking into the port. The 4th order in all its glory. I still have all the interior out of my car (including the amp) but once the glue is fully dried tomorrow I'll put the amp in and test it out.

I was out most of today but still made some progress. Port built. Bolted together. It was going to be removable but odds are I'll never swap it. I also decided to not bother glassing the inside of this box. I'll save it for a better project. I just sealed it up with glue/silicon. I doubt the resin/glass would make much difference with these basic woofers. I am already eyeing some bigger subs anyway. Front panel mounted. 6.5" mid for scale. It's a big freakin box for 4 10's. Set the top panel on but didn't mount yet. Just wanted to see how it looked. Didn't feel like ordering copper bolts and waiting for them to arrive so I just did the old fashioned silicon the wires into the box method. I hope to get the inside area (where you can see in via the port) and the port itself painted tomorrow. As well as the woofers mounted/tested then screw the top on and seal it up. After that we'll see how this warlock sounds.

You could do it, but it's not something I'd suggest. The DVC will either get more or less power depending if you have it wired parallel (2 ohms) or series (8 ohms). How you wire the final load completely depends on what your amp is stable to. I'd stick with whichever suits your amp better for now though and not mix different subs.

Update, I got the port wood cut tonight and was going to keep working on the box but I found an issue with the car. I pulled the rear seats a few weeks ago and thought nothing of the bolt holes since they were pretty high up. Well I guess I should have as they are the only thing I can think of that would cause this, the spare tire well was FULL of water. There was a 1" deep puddle, plus the rear seat area floorboards were wet too. The carpet was so soaked I got my pants wet just kneeling on it while unbolting the seats. Needless to say those holes are now sealed shut with silicon. That is the only thing I can think of that I changed that could have caused this, hopefully that fixes the problem. I am going to leave the carpet out for a bit to make sure no water returns. I just drove in some mega slushy deep snow this week so I am thinking that is how it happened. So as of now the car has zero interior. I also lost some of the FatMat deadening I just installed in the tire well since it was soaked. I am not too upset though after reading it's not that great and it was pretty cheap too so not a major hit. Here it is with the carpet still in and all the deadening ripped out where the puddle was. You can see it is still damp. Closeup, again you can see all the moisture still present. Not thrilled with myself but live and learn. Look ma - No seats... Most of the interior ripped out aside from a few panels. The carpet was filthy anyway, I think I'd vacuumed it like 3 times since owning the car in the past 6 years. So it was probably a good thing I had to pull it. I am still going to try and finish the box this weekend but this set me back a little.

Oh yea, as far as the SPL graph goes I wouldn't put a ton of stock in that, especially once you increase the wattage but it doesn't hurt to check it out. There are just so many more variables once an enclosure is placed in a vehicle it can't possibly predict all that. I mostly just look at the gain curve myself. The thing is, the only real test is building the box and trying it out. This is why you see many of the serious builders making boxes with interchangeable ports.

I am not sure if I use the alpha version, it just says WinIsd 0.44 at the top. I've always been under the impression it works fine. I've used it for every box I've ever made which has been 12 years now. Edit - It's just the basic free version I use. It doesn't give box dimensions or anything like that, I do all that myself. I just use it to configure port size and view the gain curves based on the box size/sub I input.

Interesting build for sure, tuned in for more.

If you want to save yourself some cash return the resin and mat. It's not needed. If your cuts are nice and straight all you need to do is run a small bead of wood glue on the inside of the seams. If not then run a small bead of caulk. If I had cut it with a table saw and it was perfect I'd probably not bother but I only had a circular saw. So it's not 100% perfect. It's just for the corners and seams to make sure it's all sealed up 100%. Small update for the day. This is just the layout of the port hole I need to cut, screwdriver for scale. Got a pocket jig today, makes mounting the MDF much simpler and no splitting. Baffle in and mounted, drill in there for scale. It's a pretty big box, gonna be tough to pick up. Roughly 17 sq/ft before port/woofer/baffle displacement. That's all for now.

That is one bad ass sub. Any plans to try it in different boxes in the future? A 4th order or perhaps just a higher tuned ported box just to see how many db that single 18 can do.

Got some more goodies for the box today. I guess the price of resin has gone up since I last bought it 10 years ago, or at least I don't remember it being so expensive. So I only got the smaller jug for now. I'll be using the mat pictured on the seams first then depending how much is left I might do some coats in other areas. I got some white paint for inside of the ported section, I've seen some other boxes done like this and like the look. I also got some 3/8" bolts for the port since I want it to be removable. I was going to screw it in but then realized that could be a problem if I need to access or swap the woofers later. Although it will still be hard with only a 13.5" x 13.5" opening but better than 12" x 12" plus the port will obviously not be in the way either. I also got a can of black plasti dip, didn't plan on it but saw it there and have wanted to try it out. I am going to cover the H logo on the front and rear of the car and see how it turns out. If I like it I plan to do my wheels in the future.

Welcome aboard. I am pretty new too but it's a good group over here.

Awesome, hopefully it helps convince him. There is plenty of room for beat in the back. Interesting, I never thought about that. I do plan to use it though when I add a highs amp soon. Small update time. I made a bit of progress this weekend. In doing so I decided this is the last box I will build without a router, table saw, and nail gun. Doing it with a drill, jigsaw, and circular saw sucks so much. The start of the box itself, freaking huge... Double layer baffle for the subs. Glued and screwed. Waiting a day for it to dry before I mount it in place.

What he said ^. Even with sealed boxes you don't want them different sizes, they will not have the same response/output.

It will be slid more forward than that, my current box is under all those panels. It should be about 8-9" from the hatch when I slide the new box against the front seats. I figured that should give it enough breathing room, if not I can flip the box around too and port it forward.

Dang, just read some sound deadening threads and apparently this FatMat deadening I got is basically just peel and seal. That bums me out, I also found some photos of it melted and sliding off someones inner door panel. So that sucks, a lot. I have only done the hatch door, spare tire well and hatch sides with it though. I will get a better product for the doors, floor pan from the hatch forward, and roof. As the saying goes "you get what you pay for", I feel like an idiot. Oh well, live and learn.

Most of the wood is cut, just gotta do the speaker cutouts and cut the wood for the port. I just slid the pieces around my current box to make sure it would fit. Then it's assembly time.

I got my MDF for the 4th order, starting the build this weekend. I doubt I get it done but should have some updates. I sure hope this performs the way I think it should.

Anyone have any input on the following two variables on my 4th order box. 1. Box orientation in car. I plan to face the port at the hatch to get the "loading effect". It seems like this should yield the best results without actually walling it off. Is there any reason to face it forward in a non walled car? The box will be just shy of 40" long in order to get enough air space while keeping the width/height low enough to get it in the car. So the non port end will be right up against the front seats. The port will be about 6" from the hatch. If I flip it the port would be blowing right in between the seats basically but I could slide it all the way back then, which would give me the 6" gap there. 2. I see most 4th orders have large vertical rectangular ports. Is there any reason for this aside from a "it's what fit" / "This is how I got enough sq^2 port area" type of thing or does it actually do something. I originally designed mine with a 20" x 8" port but could also do a 12.5" x 12.5" port with the same results - roughly 14-15 inches of port per cube of the ported section. I've read that square ports have a tendancy to be less noisy so I am more inclined to do that but when I see most everyone has these tall semi narrow ones it makes me wonder. I also see a lot of people with VERY short ports on their 4th orders. The only way I see the accomplish this is to be around 7.5-9 inches of port per cube of ported section. Is it that people don't care about sq/inches of port per cube or that they have some secret formula I am unaware of? The length of my port is roughly 9.5" whether square or rectangular. Thanks for anyone who wants to shed share some thoughts.

That is pretty crazy you got your old sub back 5 years later. Welcome back to the game.

Small update time. I've been measuring and doing calculations the last couple days here is what I've found. I can fit the 8 10's but the box size is limited so the performance increase over 4 isn't there since I can make the box for 4 much larger per driver. So I am going to stick with the 4 10's for the time being. I really need an amp for my highs anyway along with a front mounted voltage gauge and some other small stuff. So I am going to get that stuff ordered and installed before spending more money on subs I don't really need. The good news is I have come up with a pretty decent 4th order box for the 4 10's. It performs better than the current ported box all the way from 20 - 59hz with a 8-10db gain from 40-50hz. It's a 3:1 ratio so obviously it's going to be a bit peaky but thats fine with me since I am after the maximum spl with these cheap woofers. I'm going to try to get some MDF purchased this weekend so I can get started on the fun, stay tuned for updates.

Thanks. I am leaning hard towards the 8 now, just not sure if I can fit them or not. I am pretty set on a 4th order now. I did lots of playing around in WinIsd last night and it would be pretty close as far as space goes but the results should blow the current ported box out of the water if I can make it fit. If I don't mess the new box up it should yield some pretty good results. I just need to measure and see if I can fit all 8 for sure. I may have to settle for 6 but we'll see. The 6 would still drop the amp to 1.33ohms and give me almost full power but 8 just sounds so much more fun. I know for sure I can fit it if I wall it off but I am not sure if I want to take that step or not quite yet. If I don't wall it I am not sure which way to face the port either. I am pretty sure it would gain more facing at the hatch but not quite sure and we all know the only way to find out for sure is to build it.