pd8731

I've been waiting since mid January for my 15" BTL to come back from getting replaced. To be honest, they really don't care about the individual customer. If I stopped buying from there, there's a lot of people that still would and Fi wouldn't skip a beat. It's sort of a soup nazi situation. The product is great, but trying to acquire it is like pulling teeth.

good. i pucking hate spiders. this would be the ultimate revenge for making me scream like a 10 year old when i was in the shower.

I sent in a BTL to be replaced and it has been months with nothing sent back. It was said to be in the process of being replaced. The last email that I got back from Fi was on February 11th. I'm just not sure what else to do. My emails for the past month have gone unanswered, and you guys don't have a phone number. Please email me at [email protected] whenever you get a chance.

Hi. I talked to you a few weeks ago about a BTL of mine that had a crack on the magnet the entire way around. You said that if I sent it in, it would be replaced with a new BTL. I sent it in a few weeks ago and I was wondering when I would be getting a sub back. Just checking in. In case you don't have my address, it's:

How much does the slug only, on the new BTL weigh? Also, how is the top plate and t-yoke manufactured? Is it milled, molded, cast?

What is the optimal box size (cubic feet) and port area (square inches) for a 12" BTL? Tuning to about 35 Hz.

Please don't do that, I hate when people assume I'm an ignorant moron. I know the recommended. I'm asking in real situations, what has worked the best for a 35 Hz tuning, daily setup. I understand you think I don't know what I'm talking about, but please assume that I do. 1.75-2.5 is a little too broad for me. Please let me know if you know what the absolute optimal for the sub is. Thank you very much for replying, though.

For the sake of argument my friend, the sake of argument.

Bump.

Since no one answered, I'll give it a shot. That is your problem. You are playing below the tuning frequency of the enclosure. The sub acts as if it is in no enclosure below Fb. Power handling is thermal rating only. That is how much power the sub can handle before the voice coil melts. It is independent of frequency. Mechanical power handling is never mentioned because it is dependent on enclosure size/design and the frequency of the material being sent to the sub. Yes, stiffer spiders would give you more mechanical power handling but they will also impact other Theile/Small parameters. Your Fs will go up. Your efficiency may go down. Your Vas will change.Best solution(s) - Lengthen the port to tune lower, use an SSF, lower the gains on your amp and quit listening to music with low bass in it. One or a combination of the above will fix your issue. -Robert Don't take this the wrong way, but I know of everything you just said. Miscommunication. I meant to mention that I can smell the voice coil burning when playing for a long period of time. My gain is set correctly and I am not clipping the signal very much at all. I basically just want to give them moe powa. Isn't there any way to make a 3" coil have more power handling than 1200-1500 watts without changing the motor?

I have 2 Konaki 12's with Incriminator Audio recones on them. Overall they sound great and hit the lows great, but the power handling is lacking. I have them both on a Crunch GP3000D-Pro which is putting out between 2500-3000 watts given my electrical right now. The amp is set correctly and the system thumps hard, but it seems like they bottom out wayyyy too easily. I play a lot of low stuff (<36hz) and when I turn it up too loud, the subs bottom out. Basically, I'm wondering if Fi would have any options to boost my power handling to 1500+ watts a piece and maybe some spiders that would stay stiff and allow me to play low frequencies at high volumes without bottoming out.

Anybody?

4.4 cubes net tuned to 38 hz. I'm going to be reconing to 15's or 18's in the future, and I want to know what all options I could have to maximize my powa handling. I would like to know ANY and ALL options that could be put on it.

Is there any companies out there that would be willing to custom make a recone kit with a high roll surround? Say I wanted to recone a BTL or something or that sort, but I really wanted a high-roll rubber surround. I know TC makes their subs with them, as does SoundSplinter with their Rl-p 18, but I want to do it with a sub like the BTL, DD 9500, or something else in an 18.

No need, I just love them enough and the way they look that I would be willing to pay extra to have it.

Do you make a recone kit (besides basket) that would fit an 18" MMATS Juggernaut, and if so, how much would it cost shipped to 48040?

Besides the voice coil, what are the differences between MT and BTL softparts?

I'm wondering if this is a good idea. The box being 12 cubic feet @ 35 hz with 189 square inches of port. That's about 15.7 square inches per cubic foot. I can tune slightly lower, but will sacrifice port area. Is this a good design for daily driving?

Does Fi offer a recone kit that would fit on a MA Audio 1800XL? If not, who would? The recone kit would have to include a new basket.

What if the subs were forward, and port was forward below the subs. Having a 21" by 6" port will yield 126 square inches of port area. I know by rights that's not enough, but for a real world application, will this work?

Umm I'm having a bit of a problem. I need someone to go into bass box pro or whatever you like and design me a box. The external dimensions are 27Hx40Wx25D. I'd like it ported. Please don't tell me to get different subs or a different car, I just can't make that happen.

Are you sure that's going to be enough port area? That's less area than I have for my box right now. And btw I would sand down the port anyway, I always do. Thanx greatly for the input.

I really doubt he can get access to the VC. Unless someone else has ripped the sub apart. I'm sure he wouldn't want to take out the coil just to find out that a recone can't be offered.

Before you tell me to look at the sticky, let me explain. I looked at the sticky and it said that the a cut list and more in depth enclosure recommendations would be available soon, and that was a long while ago. If anyone has experimented A LOT with the 18 SSD please explain it to me. How much port area, size, tuning, wattage, sub and port placement, and pictures if possible. I really would appreciate anything you can give me.

Thx. I'm building a box right now that I think should be okay. The external dimensions are 24Hx40Wx23D. It's 8 cubic feet after all displacement tuned to 33 Hz. There's 107 square inches of port area. The box will be sitting in my back seat. The sub is facing up and the port forward on the opposite side of the box.