rugdnit

That's going to be WAY too low a tuning. If you want to tune that low on those subs, you may as well just go sealed. Same output and much better sound. Not to mention that the port required to tune 1cf to 28 hz is going to have to be bigger than the rest of the box by a considerable amount. I can't believe that you will be happy with that setup. well i do have a box set up with a 4" fully flared aeroport at 1 cuft 28hz and ( while i am not proud of this ) i had 2 eD 8's in it that sounded killer, but hey... its not the driver so much as it is the box right???

how are things progressing so far? any news?

lets keep the thread on point and drop the " split atoms " tangent. i have been wondering this for some time.. at what point do people get back to what it is all about? that said with all the variation in recording quality it's tough. kinda like golf... it can never be perfected. you may finally get your sound perfect with you favorite band, but then all other recordings may not sound near as good. recording quality is something that is driving me nuts as i go through my old back catalogue of music.... songs i used to really enjoy, but because the recording is not very good your system really brings it to light and no longer enjoy listening to those songs anymore.

X2.... definitely liking the Toyota. that is my next ride for work. perfect balance of what i need. good size, decent mileage and room for samples.

bump for Specs is Scott back yet?

hey guys... i am trying to find out the T/S Parameters of the Copper Coil Option. i was looking at the Fi site and thought it was weird that the BL rating was so low when compared to so many other drivers. would a very low BL rating not be ideal for Porting? i was considering doing a PR or Porting the box, but i was told by the guys at AE Speakers that a low BL # leads him to believe that it is not a good candidate for porting or a PR. does anyone have decent experience in porting the copper coil SSD and what results have you had?

brother.... i appreciate your help! i didnt give you guys enough info from the get go. i didn't mean to come off the wrong way. i will spend more time on my front stage once i get the Hertz 6L drivers in. i like the bass guitar lines to thunder, but with a sealed enclosure i always get more thump from the kick drum than i really like.

JimJ-- agreed... that is why i have the Hertz coming and am even considering putting the M6's in pods since they really need an enclosure. the last two ported boxes i had were tuned low and it seemed to lessen the thump of the kick drum but i still had solid bass guitar ( i like a loud bass guitar ) but as you mentioned with more help up front you can avoid the localization of all the sound from the back. i definitely like the idea of a PR with something like an RLi 8 or 10... small enclosure with low tuning. Nick i was looking at the Acoustic Elegance PRs. thanx guys!

well until Scott gets back i am stuck waiting for the CC T/S. what i am trying to accomplish is this- i am trying to tame the kick drum down while still having strong bass guitar. i have tried using X-over points to tame the kick drums down, but i lose the bass guitar line as well. i have successfully done other boxes for other drivers and intentionally tuned low to accomplish this. my midbass stage should be improving once i add the Hertz Space 6L in the door and possibly the M6 in a pod, but it i still like the sub to hammer out the low bass guitar parts. it would be nice to have to tweakability of a mixer. you could turn certain instruments up or down until the desired sound is achieved. look... i know that the SSD drivers perform just fine sealed or ported, but once you understand where i am coming from and what i am trying to achieve it might make more sense. i am sure some of you have been to a concert/show and have heard that the kick drum is not near as prominent as the bass guitar-- wouldnt you like to have that same effect in your car? does anyone else have a similar experience?

i hear what you are saying, but to do a PR ( or to port really ) properly you need the numbers. i cannot imagine that when scott was designing the SSD that he threw all the numbers out the door and said, " screw it i will just slap stuff together until it sounds good ". its the understanding of all these numbers and knowing how and when to manipulate them and in what direction so that the end result is enjoyable. it is not fair to generalize and say that your end result is what i should be happy with. i did in fact read the sticky. did you see anywhere on that sticky anything about PRs or the amount of mass that should be loaded on to that PR?

guys as i mentioned in a few other threads i am a sales rep and i spend ALOT of time in the car. after debating for hours what would be best-- build a killer small sub box ( RLi8 or like with a PR to keep it small ) or redo my doors one of our resident experts here hit the nail on the head " why would you spend so much time or money on a sub? it reproduces about 15% of your sound ". it really hit home. i deadened my doors with Raamat, but did not do the closed cell foam on either skin of the door. when it warms up i want to make sure i do the closed cell foam ( is it better to line the inside of the door or between the panel trim and outer skin? ). i bought the egg crate foam to do behind the speaker ( i have some KILLER waterproofing product that i have with one of the lines i rep ). i want to make sure i build a better baffle this time around as well. i bought some Damplifier Pro from Ant to deaden and help seal up the doors better. currently i am working with a set of CDT ES06 HD drivers. they seem very capable, but could definitely use better door prep as these things really jump. these drivers have a larger voice coil so they are much warmer than other 6-6.75 drivers i have had in the past. they are great for cranking out the midbass. but from there things fall off. i have have the CDT 560 crossovers with titanium dome CDT tweets. these tweets are just BRUTAL. they make my ears burn and make for the worst listener fatigue of any system i have built. i have a 06' Forester XT so speaker location selection is not good. i have the tweets in the upper door pods with the -3 db attenuation and they are still brutal. i am looking at going active so i can fine tune my tweets better as well as midbass. i am looking at two options here-- 1. Buy some Seas Neos and run them active with the CDT ES06 HDs. 2. Buy some Rainbow Germs and try active or the Bi Amp off of the xover. i am torn since option 2 is more money and for the extra money will i be that much happier. i have also toyed with the idea of building some pods and going 3 way. i have a stash of different drivers in my garage ( musicians call this GAS i believe..... and yes.... i have GAS ). i have two sets of old school Orion MB8s that i will probably never use, but i was thinking of doing a kickpanel with either tweet in them and an old school Orion XTR Pro ( really its an NT before they officially launched the NT line ) 5.25 Carbon Fiber Cone for 80-100 Hz on up with a passive and then either the CDT or Germs in the door for strictly midbass. i respect the opinions here since we have people here that know SQ. what it comes down to is do the Seas Neos or Rainbow Germs? thoughts???

i am a sales rep. i handle about ten different lines, but my main focus is hockey. i was the kid who could not sit still in class, so i really enjoy the changing scenery while out on the road. i watch lots of movies and listen to my stereo quite a bit... keeps me going some days!

happy testing brother!

any idea on box specs yet?

after a fair amount of listening with the CDTs and talking with Norman at Speed Sound i have decided to order a set of Hertz Space 6L drivers. actually he ordered them and told me they were on the way. according to the specs and from what a few of his customers had to say these should be absolutely killer. i cant wait to get these in the doors. i will get pics this time... i promise!

OLD SCHOOL-- " way to go Frank... you have one vagina for the rest of your life! " J/K! Congrats!

POSTAL CODE!!!! V0G 1M0

i've been coming to this pool every summer of my adult life.... and there she is oiling and lotioning..... lotioning and oiling....... I CAN'T TAKE IT ANYMORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Squints

any update on this?

how do you like the output of two sealed?

not that a cat-back makes a world of difference, but for all of the Ford trucks i had they made the best power on the Dyno. dollar for dollar if you are looking for power..... 'Charge it! IMHO exhausts are only good for making noise and just like your stereo..... sound is subjective.

i have had two systems from them and had ZERO problems. what you think sounds like chit may not sound like chit to alot of other people. it all depends on what sound and or how much noise you are trying to make. dont mistake noise for power! Flomaster are great at making noise!

and that is what disturbs me, but hey it is a business and if that is what works best for them then so be it. looking forward to the return of the Rli8!!!!!

i have been watching and waiting no doubt! i have been talking to Mike on and off for about 9 months and keeping an eye on the others. DevilDriver..... i understand the logic of what they are doing... but for the DIY crowd they could at least offer the stuff under the Fi brand. it would be killer to see some of our favourite DIY brands doing things like killer Midbass and 8s.

as i have an SSD i have gone through Scott/Fi ( back in the early days i bought 6 RE8s from him ), but they dont offer an 8". i would really like to have a Fi Q kinda 8" .... they wont do 8's and say that is what AA is for...... yet AA is going dealer only. i strongly dislike alot of dealers. perhaps part of that has to do with me being a sales rep. i try to educate my buyers and their employees through Product Knowledge sessions all the time. a very small percentage take me up on it. many shops just hire dumb kids to sit behind the counter and take your money or tell you alot of bs. i value dealers that offer solid pricing and take the time to know as much about the product they are selling as possible. problem is that those kind of dealers are far and few between. i understand what they are trying to achieve, but if you are going to have two separate brands at least have similar offerings ( with different wrappers ). the general public would never know the difference and the DIYs would be happy as well.