jonbearsmt

i have a set of SSA ZCONS ill sell you.. and im just up the road from you

oh im sorry the ohmic resistance of the conductor i dont think it matters. he would not have known the diffrance. but thanks

also list the setting on the head unit.

mainly if its dual or single voicecoil and what impedance it is.. dual 4 dual 2 single 4 or single 2

ok 1 and 2 are 2 ohm stereo... whats up with the info on the sub???

Right now I don't, but the amp's manual should say right? I have 2 fronts speakers + 2 rear speakers (with tweeters) bridged into 2 channels. Then the sub woofer bridged too. your picture shows other wise

first things first you need to unbridge the channels running your front and back speakers.. you can run them 2 ohm stereo...( two speakers on each channel) and the amp shows to only be bridgable at 4 ohms. so we need to work out that sub issues too.. waiting for the modle and impedance of the sub to work that out.. here are the specs on the amp Max Power RatingsTotal Power: 2400 WattsMax Bridged Power @ 4 Ohms: 1200 Watts x 2Max Power @ 2 Ohms: 600 Watts x 4

it would be 2 ohms stereo .. but he has it brided 4 4 ohms speakers in mono is 1 ohm

there is your issue.. it sounds like you have the 2 channels ran at 1 ohm mono... how is your sub wired? im not familier with the boss amps but i doubt it a 4 channel 1 ohm stable

get a digital multi meter and select ohm mode, and check each channel and see what it says.. do you know what each channel should be running at?

get a DMM and check the impedance of each channel you have hooked up... right off it sounds like you may be running it below its ohm load threshold

i have 4 runs of 1/0 welding lead.. so that should work then..

i think i may just save my self alot of trouble,. see if you can follow me here.. two batteries on each side of my trunk....... my amp in the center, my distro block in the center.... i have a frame ground... im going to run my frame ground to my distro block. my amp to my distro block.. then just run wires from my distro block to the batteries too.... so everything is just ggrounded thru the block.... as aposed to grounding each battery to the frame at the battery location and running a wire to the distro block... follow me?

fuck me.. i just drilled a huge fucking hole in my trunk floor that is in the wrong spot....

LLumar and 3m and Huper Optik are the best

@100% efficacy

inbox is empty now, here they are, they help but.. well my amp is in repair for vib issues as we speak.. first time in 8 years but. https://www.google.com/search?q=endlink+bushings&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

did you hot swap the RCA wires,. ( unplug them and plug them back in while the radio was playing? also did you ground your body to the frame aswell.. and lastly how is your amp mouted? did you screw it into tthe metal ?

yeah and double inputs makes it even harder to clamp to find true draw,

mine is tested at 201 amps at low speed and 306 at high, im also in texas so heat is a major factor, not sure what would be the issue i have 4 runs of 0 from the alt to the rear, batteries are brand new, my cells are bus bared. oh my starting voltage is 14.0 hot, so when im idled up i stay around 13.8 on the NS1 at 1 ohm.... at .25 its a diffrent story, 11.8 at idle 12.8 idled up

i run 6.5 K on a 300 amp mechman and 450 smp hours worth of battery, and i have to watch my voltage and idle up while demoing.

cool beans this is true i can see its alot of power on a single 12 cant wait for more results im jonesin for to recone with these parts

why jacob didnt post it here... weird, the sub seems to be reaching mechanical limits of the surround... one way. weird.