jonbearsmt

i hear ya im just telling you what i know... he has had all those subs and more, and the SP4 is the only one that went up in flames.... and this guy did not run sundown amps.

American bass, and the guy is a avid FI fan... he has had BTLs the SP4s the crossfires ...

i have a local friend and his just went up in flames too

are you dead set on the DC's >? i would recommend alot of other subs before i would the Dc's

no doubt it has this wiring tool that is great for shorting shit out .

looks like the old X series too me.

well for what he needs. the biggest battery at wall mart will be not only cheap but also plenty big for his current needs

unless your running the wire under the car... i personaly fuse up front.. then again in the rear before my battery bank in back

lol yeah this is great i posted in the ihop a few weeks ago.. shes cool... " i like driving a stick"

There are many types of batteries available, of course – which one is right for you? For audio installations, experience has shown that the best results will be obtained using deep-cycle marine batteries. These batteries can be obtained from almost any dealer for approximately $60. Lead-acid batteries are preferred over calcium-based (maintenance-free) batteries because of their superior internal characteristics. Maintenance-free batteries are usually designed to provide a large amount of current for a short period of time. This is great for starting your car, but not so great for running a high-powered system. Deep-cycle marine batteries, on the other hand, are designed to provide a moderate-to-large amount of current over a long period of time. The plates in each cell are thicker, and they are made for deep, cyclic use. This is important because you can severely drain this type of battery without damaging it, which is ideal for car audio installations. There are three ratings you should check out when selecting a battery. The first is the CCA (cold-cranking amps) rating. This indicates a batterys ability to provide a large amount of current for a short period of time at cold temperatures. (If youre looking for a battery that will be used just to start your car, this is the rating you would be most interested in.) The second rating, and the one that is most important in terms of your system, is the AH (amp/hour) rating. This rating simply states how much current the battery is capable of delivering for a period of time. The larger the rating, the better. Typical deep-cycle marine batteries have AH ratings of 85 to 105. The third rating you should look at is reserve time. Deep-cycle marine batteries really shine here. Reserve time represents the batterys ability to recover and produce electrical energy after a discharge cycle – without re-charging. The longer the reserve time, the better. Installing the extra battery or batteries in parallel will result in the most efficient use of its (their) power. When using this method of connection, your total AH rating is the sum of the AH ratings of all of your batteries. Note that batteries installed in this manner should be identical (the same make and model). If theyre not the same, their internal impedances will differ and, eventually, one battery will discharge the other. When wiring the electrical system, dont skimp on large-gauge wire. Welding cable is preferable because of its tough outer jacket, fine wire strands, and good flexibility. The bottom line is that you should never use less than No. 4 wire. Also, dont forget to install 150-amp circuit breakers at each end of the power cable running from the front to the rear of the car. The circuit breakers will protect the vehicle in case of a short somewhere along the length of the cable. Its important to take the time to plan out your electrical system. A properly designed and installed system will provide a good foundation for your auto sound components while maintaining reliability and safety. The audibly superior performance will be well worth the added time and expense.

yes i understand that.

ears eyes and nose and common sense works pretty well

i agree. AH is very important. its the amount of reserve of a deep cycle battery , cranking amps matters too.. because it is the burst output rating. from what i recall

what style of metering?

always line up your OEM part to the replacement part to make sure they are a match... also DMM the leads to insure they are the correct ohm i know what its like.. you get your new parts your all jazzed out.. and slap the parts together

are you idled up or is that at idle? what amp and what ohm load. and have you check all your grounding points to insure they are good. allso have you grounded the alternator

About spl or daily? He said somewhere it is daily but may compete at some point. gotcha,. well if its for spl i would say test first... i have a friend here localy that has his subs and port fired forward , not sealed off.. and the trunk open is loudest... makes no scene but it is what it is.

i did miss my reply or was i just ignored?

i agree, make sure you have a volt meter, and just watch your voltage .. what amp?

is this for SPL or just daily?

sundown 1500 1200 or 1000 would do just lovely

i cant seem to find if this unit will work my my head unit.... Pioneer DEQ-P7000 and my head unit is http://www.crutchfield.com/S-bE35Dfhxx87/p_130P8000BT/Pioneer-FH-P8000BT.html

im lovin the new rittz album

there is a wrecker company in austin owned by jesse james named "fancy hooker " 4x4 thats crazy did you see it in person? its crazy the things they say