jonbearsmt

you should use a relay.. but first you need to select a head unit that will allow you to bypass the the rear view option to make it full time... or.. fise a AVI indash that will allow you to mod the E break switch so that you can view video full time.... i had it on a old pioneer pop out

sure you can..

That being said, since I already have my front speakers. I may start working on that. thats what i was thinking!!

did the front stage get pushed aside?

someone didn't read the rules of the forum

did you get a demo? and thats what a team members car IS FOR!!!! thats fucking awesome

welcome.. san marcos texas here.

i have had a few salt water set ups in my day, SO FUCKING TIME CONSUMING and expensive, i cant even remember how many times i would have a enimi die or a star fish,.. and everything else would get sick and die too.. or a coral would take a shit on me and FLUSH EVERYTHING down the drain... yours in nice.. very nice.. but i cant see my self doing it ever again... props to you for having the time and patience i stick to fresh water now thank you !!! good great man, i met its very nice to watch at night.... i would love to see more pics

i ground my rear batteries to my frame... and i ground my amp to my rear battery

look online for a local electronics repair shop..

how about this one. http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&biw=1280&bih=885&tbm=isch&tbnid=YFqIyX_rDG2aFM:&imgrefurl=http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php%3Ft%3D98948%26page%3D5&docid=fro6wx_9Lap3LM&imgurl=http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b123/Shbek1/Pics/picofuse/DSC00653.jpg&w=1024&h=768&ei=Lkh_T8WBCeae2gWk-ID_Bg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=610&vpy=219&dur=2142&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=179&ty=120&sig=105210265450493815808&page=1&tbnh=152&tbnw=210&start=0&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:0,i:75

sweeeeeettttt

very nice!

yes you can... the pioneers have a PICO fues that blows if the head unit and RCA wires are not grounded well.. its a commen issue it will cause alternator wine,. in a HUGE way,.. IF the pico is your issue.. you will need to send the radio off for repair .. then be sure to run this mod.... http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/644177.html

you dont?? umm.. you may need some double female connectors.. or a set like these http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&client=firefox-a&sa=N&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&biw=1280&bih=885&tbm=isch&tbnid=e-GUWTwxRR2XlM:&imgrefurl=http://www.iec.net/m7401.html&docid=VYnFEoPhQmtQEM&imgurl=http://www.iec.net/Images/jpeg/M7401.jpg&w=320&h=249&ei=mh1_T53dBKTg2AXx-viVBw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=357&vpy=402&dur=2926&hovh=198&hovw=255&tx=96&ty=99&sig=105210265450493815808&page=1&tbnh=140&tbnw=182&start=0&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:7,s:0,i:91 plug them into your RCA wires that normaly come out of your head unit.. it does not matter how old your head unit is...... but.. what brand is it?

what i mean is.. .RCAs are a little complex. a RCA wire can be bad.. and still pass signel .. a pinched RCA wire can cause all kinda of head achs.. because its not broken its not easy to detect..... when pinched the inside cased + can be exposed.. causing noise and sometimes impassable signal on 1 channel... so it can mes you up. so its not always as cut and dry as " if my RCAS were broken it would not make bass"

if it plays fine with a phone and a 3.5 jack.... do you have your 3.5 jack stright into the amp? if so... and it plays fine, then you have narrowed it down a bit... but.. there are still 2 links to check.... 1 the RCA run...... use your 3.5 jack and your phone... pull your deck.. and plug your 3.5 into your long run of RCA wires... if it plays fine then your head unit is bad.... if it still plays poorly then its your long run of RCA's

gotta leave the truck intact.. i know you wanna trade it in for a new one..... cant wait for the Birthday bash im thinking about bringing the lincoln.....

whats the diamond plate box?

you can say that again ..... team steve and jon

me and lantz were talking...... and i need yall to give your opinion aswell... he has a 3500 watt amp.... on the OEM battery... and a OEM alternator ... IMO ,.. thats why the factory alt failed... and even if he gets another alternator and does not add more batteries he will fun into the same issue again.... i cant see how you have been running that amp as long as you have with out the amp its self having issues... when i had my 3000D i ran 2 yellow tops in the rear, and a fatory OEM battery under the hood, with a 200 amp h/o and i had issues....... it wasent untill i added 3 optimas in the rear my problems went away

good stuff.. let us know what was wrong with it

or you can do a electric actuator.. .better known as a "pop truck"

check your grounds.. not sure if that has been stated yet... but that can be an issue

The vids you post walking around showing flex was your car not at idle? Or are you running a high idle controller? Just curious. i run a VERY hi tech idle control........ a quarter and a dime as a spacer on my throttle return back plate i used to run at idle during my vids.. but years of experiance has showed me that putting a huge strain on an alternator at idle id a killer... and just in heat alone your running a risk of burning your grease up on your bearings... its best to idle it up.