crunch1

hiyas, my take on box flexing is this "the less the better" why? because flexing is basically turning the enclosure into another sound source that may have negative effects on your intended sound waves. You might get lucky with the flexing and not produce cancellation waves but why risk it. I would much rather try to reduce the chance of anything interfering with something im trying to control. ps: even with the proper materials your still going to have some measurable flex, but not enough to give you problems. now for how much flex heh I took two scrap pieces of 3/4 Mdf and particle board (both were the same size and thickness) and placed then on my saw horse evenly and then placed two new 5 gallon buckets of drywall plaster on them (one on each). the particle board busted and the Mdf didn't. so I would say the Mdf would be the better choice for having less flex. heh not to scientific but its all I had laying around.

Thanks for all the input. Seems like I have some thinking to do lol. Right now I was tossing around the idea of fitting a evaporator around the sub motors and using the stock ac unit to power the system, but condensation concerns are holding me back.

IMHO Hertz MLK 165 is a great comp set. for msrp $999.00

Hiyas, welcome to the forum and Fi is the bomb

Hiyas, welcome to the forum.

Hiyas, welcome to the forum

Hiyas, welcome to the forum.

Hiyas, welcome to the forum.

Hiyas, welcome to the forum.

you could fill the enclosure with Styrofoam beads and then empty the enclosure and measure the volume of the beads

you could fill the encloser with Styrofoam beads and then empty the encloser and measure the volume of the beads

I can only speak for the Kicker zx series. Wish I could speak for the sx but oh well. The Kicker zx series IMHO lacks control options, but on the other hand has pretty clean underrated power.

sigh

Meow

ya a .22 would be cheaper, but 223 are so much funner.

Didnt think I would have to take a exam to post in this thread, but beings your wanting to test me lol I will do one better how about I give you the simple equation and you track down the info on the Sundowns lol o here goes are ya ready. Watts/Volts=amps now figure in for the efficiency %

LOL damn man stalling your car with a test tone. Sounds like you should buy a five gallon bucket of lock tite and hose down your car to keep it from shaking apart.

For your first system you could start off many different ways. Sub stage Front stage ect... Im not going to say either is best to start off with, but I will say this. Think out your system in its entirety. Get a game plan for the whole thing and then start. Its better to plan out the entire system ahead of time so you dont make mistakes by buying or installing un-needed components. 1. power supply (alt, batt/s, amp/s, big3) 2. HU 3. Front stage 4. Sub stage 5. And any equalization or processing that you feel you need. 6. Dampening

I would suggest 5.56 or 223 for testing purposes. Its a rather cheap load to reload or buy.

sounds interesting. crowning a barrel that is.

I don't even want to know how bad I am beating the piss out of my battery. Total rms wattage available on 14.4 volts (unlimited current) is a little over 4300 watts. Actual current available: 85 ampere alt (30% = 25 amperes) actual voltage at rest (car on 13.9).... My system is living but an alt is in my very near future with a kinetik hc2400 Well at 4300RMS at 13.9v you need a 312amp alternator. At 14.4v you need a 303amp alternator. heh ummm ya your killing your system

yup back from the dopey posts. sheesh all i did was lol

your alternator will support a maximum of: current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (13.8) total system power (535)watts RMS current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (14.4) total system power (558)watts RMS Batteries after this point will only be a temp fix without a HO alternator.