rulayd

What size ports are you guys using for your Q's? I'm building a custom fiberglass enclosure for my standard cab and i need some info on what people saw was the best result. I will be using round ports. To sum it up, what size diameter,length port do i need to not have port noise and have excellent sound. I was going to build it exactly to 2.5 cuft with displacement and port. Should i make the enclosure smaller? what are peoples views on this-Thanks

I want full potential out of the three subs. Will a SAZ1500 provide enough power to do it? T2000 are not cheap, they are 750$ on ebay....Ive read that Power master has better more reliable batteries

The t2000.1 is too much power for my system anyway. So why spend an extra 300-400 dollars on something i wont really need. A t1000.1 is around 1400 wats rms and a 500.1 is about 500ish to 600 rms. Thats perfectly amount of power for three 12 SSDs. Is there another amplifier i should consider thats in the 400-450$ range that will satisfy my power needs

I cant strap them? I cant afford a t2000.1

I dislike the dimming of my lights and i never want to it happen again. Right now i have 3 Fi SSD's with a RF t1000.1BD and a T500.1BD powering them. I have a 200Amp Alt and one optima yellow top. I haven't installed the equipment yet, so i don't know if it will dim. I have 2 electrical fans that drop my volt gauge from 14.5 to 13.5 and when i have my lights on theres no volt drop at all. Considering the fans draw 20-30 amps each, that isn't that bad. I have the Big 3 upgraded with 0/1 awg. Grounds from my frame to battery, body to battery, block to frame, and frame to cab. I have damn grounds everywhere The real question is, i want to be able to run my fans, lights, stereo, and anything else electrical without ever having problems. I'm not going to be playing my stereo at full volume all the time, so i wont strain my electrical system out. Will i need a second yellow top? They both would be in the front right next to each other. Nothing will be in the rear of the truck. I have access to a Titanium battery from the parts store that is the most expensive one they sell, its specs show its 1000CCA and i couldn't remember the other. Would i be okay with one yellow and the auto parts store battery? Or not run the auto store one and get another optima? So many questions i know, but i like things that are done Right..Thanks A LOT guys, i appreciate all the help i can get

Thanks for the reply. I respect your company to the fullest. Take as many vacations as you like Subwoofer is boxed up and being sent out tomorrow morning. I'm buying 2 more SSD's in a couple weeks, so look out for another order. Thanks for the assurance-Rulayd

Exactly, no more nonsense. Ive dealt with them before and i was quite happy with everything that i got. I understand the re cone process so im ready to roll. I'm not completely sure what is wrong with the sub, but im pretty positive that it deals with the voice coils. Scott said he was going to inspect the sub then call me about further information. One question, ive read quite a few threads about whether or not one 15 is louder than 2 12's but what is the best choice with Fi products. Its in a single cab s10, sealed, and i was deciding whether or not to do a 15 or 2 12's. All in SSD's. One Last question! What upgrades are worth doing to the SSD subs? Flatwind, BP power, etc..? Thanks Alot guys, this forum has been quite helpful

No sir its not. Its being smart business wise. I never said They would screw me over, but people do get ripped all the time. I work vary hard for the things that i have, and i like to know exactly where my money goes. Its not like there would be documentation in writing (invoice) saying that im paying Fi to rebuild my sub. All i was told was to send it back to an address and someone would just call me on its current condition. Yes sir it is. Why would an established company whom does thousands of transactions try to screw you over a motor for their entry line subs? And yes there would be paper work for the transaction, what do you think the correspondence is via emails and the such with them. Im a Company myself. Send me some money in the mail and if theres no documentation of it, or if it gets stolen or lost in the mail then tough luck. Ive never meet these guys, although id like to, but stuff happens alot of times. Not trying to be hasty, but you have to have some common sense when your dealing with money. I have never sent them back a subwoofer, so i was only making accusations about how things were to be done.

Yo nick where's my pepo music,and don't forget that song lil john was playing mane!!! Had fun at spring break when you coming to Vegas? Hey, thanks Nick for replying, and ill just try and sell my blown one and order a new Sub. Thanks for the help, you'll be hearing from me soon

No sir its not. Its being smart business wise. I never said They would screw me over, but people do get ripped all the time. I work vary hard for the things that i have, and i like to know exactly where my money goes. Its not like there would be documentation in writing (invoice) saying that im paying Fi to rebuild my sub. All i was told was to send it back to an address and someone would just call me on its current condition.

I hear you on that. As from talking to him on the internet hes been a pretty cool guy. What could i possibly do with a blown subwoofer? No one is going to buy it and i have no idea or experience with rebuilding them. Im possibly going to upgrade to a 15'' Q just because i hear such good reviews from people about them. Scott could possibly make money off me because i would basically be giving him a blown sub that he could re build really cheap and sell for full price again. Anyways, ill let you know whats up. Thanks for all the help

So do you think i could send Scott my SSD as a core for a new Q? It would be like bringing in a battery or a starter into the auto parts store and getting money for the old ones if no one has ever done or heard of that. Is there a phone number to Fi?

I've never personally re-coned a sub, but I'm almost 100% sure that they can't make your SSD into a Q, as the motor structure is different. Try emailing Scott again or bump this thread and try and get his attention and he can answer all your questions about the re-cone process. ok, thanks for the help. Ill go try and email him again

Trying to get in contact with anyone at Fi is impossible, so maybe someone can help me out. Scott emailed me about 2 months ago saying that it was 75$ to re cone my SSD and add a few little upgrades. Now, can my SSD be re coned into a Fi Q? And how much would it be. I know the baskets are the same. When you send the sub back, do i have to pay for Shipping both ways? How does this whole thing work. I'm not going to pay for the re cone up front because what if they don't send my Sub back and i get screwed. Will they send me a bill in the mail of how much it cost for the re cone and for them to ship it back to me? Sorry for the questions, im Very new to this. Thanks Rulayd

sorry to bring this topic up again, but i inverted the sub and now its down firing into the box. I was trying to see from the outside on what the sub was actually doing. Only half of the sub works and the other half just vibrates a little. Nothing was burnt or broken. So gay and my dad keeps busting my balls saying that these are chit quality subs because they couldn't even handle half the RMS than what it was rated