sqguy

I found an old JL 10 for sale, didn't see a number on it. Looks like it was reconed or something but ok job. Motor is near as big as the hole it would go in, its heavy. Kind of well used looking but new JL dustcap and maybe foam on it, it is all black and stamped looking frame....any idea of value? Not sure what I could do with only one. It has thick paper gasket on top edge that is torn up some, the rest is not bad.

I've had no problems. For a while one board I got on would not let me log in, it was a known problem so I used IE for that. Now they changed software or its been fixed, works good now. I guess I'd start with a reinstall and see what it does, something sounds screwed up. Have a gig of memory and at about 60 tabs it starts to slow down sometimes, and adobe reader has always freaked out once in a while plus it often has to be zapped to shut down. I think much of it is their stupid update program. Oh, check your disk space and windows file cache(s) first. Have had weird problems like that when short on space or settings got hosed up.

Oh my is that T/A fugly. I had one of the screaming chickens, man that was a fun car, not the best performer but way fun (and a fn killer stereo in it!). Of course I don't like that new camaro at all; it looks like a cadillac to me...just like that T/A does. The current mustang is pretty cool but that one sucks, I doubt it will be made unless they want to lose a pile of sales....not out of the ordinary for ford however. A car would have to be special if it were RWD since I could not drive it all winter, and I got tired of that years ago.

Got rolling here and replaced all the fets, checked them, all was good. I hooked it up to a junk lawnmower battery with a 2amp charger on it, enough to run it at 12v. Ran off an old HU and to a couple of 8ohm bookshelf speakers. It worked but all is not well. The heatsink on the far left got pretty warm but I could still keep my hand on it. I had unhooked the RCAs and was looking at the voltage to the speakers to see if both channels were the same, they were close. Only played it at real low volume for maybe half a minute. It then killed the battery and I noticed heat so then unhooked it. There are two tiny white pots in the left center of the board and I turned them checking for shorts way back....put them back but they could be off a hair. Have no idea what they are for naturally. I turned one and it did change voltage on output. Also on the warm sink I found two of the chips look a slightly different color, the metal part is more reddish but who knows. Was going to check ohms on all those but needed a break. I figure either I screwed up some adjustment there, or that output is screwed and might have trashed the power supply in the first place. Nothing else got warm at all...no new smoke yet...lol. The two old fets are completely shorted that were bad, the others are not. The gate resistors all showed the same ohms and looked fine, they are the tiny things. I'll check the output chips now but will have to research to get beyond that. Was reading about differentials the other day but didn't finish that. Didn't think to test rail voltages when it was up.

Nice diagram, looks good! I have a kicker zx700.5....the 4ch high side is a little weak for my liking, in my setup anyway. However the subs work great and I'm going to run it 3ch and I bet it will hammer clean. My first experience with a kicker. Also mounted it on stands if it makes any difference, since the whole bottom of it is heatsink. I had an eclipse 6200 12, but never used it. Looked a lot like an MTX to me. Running 4 infinity 1242s IB. I always get the HU, front drivers, and some kind of amp in a car first but I lean to SQ. Do like some deep bottom though. Even with the system in my car I still have enough old stuff around to put together another system that would work....I'm never empty handed.

Yeah what happened at CSO, went over the other day and nobody home? I got on here the last time it was out a week. Some very informative people around here, some interesting suggestions to try if I can just get back to working on my car...

Sweet, the Coke tastes better there because it has real sugar in it. Welcome.

Those two black center ones on table, it looks exactly like those as far as the motor/basket, but its a 10 so the basket looks a little smaller. I have to get back with the guy and see what kind of deal he will make...$25?

Does sound like an amp issue, that could or could not be due to the sub. Check the ground/etc on amp, is ohm load ok?

Most cars I look for an un-used or spare slot in the fuse box (that goes off with key of course), if no luck there I look for the power wire to the HU, no luck there I tap into a HD wire like the power windows or seats that have a larger fuse and have nothing to do with air bags or ECUs. I tap the wire going to it not the fuse. Sometimes you can find extra wires like if it does not have power seat the wires might still be under the seat, or if it does the trigger takes no power anyway.

Ok got tired of that went the other way; turned the subs back low and just cranked the parametric at 90Hz to force the mids. It sounds better but this makes it painfully obvious that the kicker 700.5 is really weak on the 4ch part at 4ohms for my use. Just when the subs get to pumping in the bottom the high side just blows out bad with tons of distortion. It is not nice as I don't want to hear it or tear up drivers. Think one of the rears blew, but they are cheap 30 or 40wrms speakers. They were always turned down too but were pretty weak pioneers...I even taped up the back of them so they didn't top out. lol, oh well that was $12 shipped. I can even turn the subs off and the highs take a dump at the same volume on the HU, so I doubt it is a power issue. So now I am going to bridge the 4ch to the front until I redo the doors, see what it does. Looking at some 8s but forcing myself to finish some other half done projects here before I start that. If I get 8s also have to do the mid/tweets at the same time plus get something to bandpass them on the kicker, I need a LP at 350 or so over that amp and HP the same for whatever amp is used on the highs. Looked at a coustic, xm6 I think it was. Have a 3way here but it only has a switch with 3 choices for frequency, a yamaha. I have a few amps I can use but none have a xover that goes above 200Hz or so if I use 3" for highs. My battery must be ok, I played it the other night while working outside at a normal volume for 3 hours and car started fine.

I was out of car stereo for a while but got the itch again, so I am trying stuff in my car. I just want a reasonable SQ system that shakes a little, nothing wild and certainly not expensive. I used to install the stuff a real long time ago and after a while I got to swapping cars so much I got lazy and stopped putting systems in....then had a job with a vehicle I could only put a cheap tube sub in. Now I need room so I am limited, I am going old school and putting 4 12" subs in the back seat IB and taking out the current sealed single 12 box. I have some comps in front that I scarfed off ebay along with the subs and a couple amps I had around. When I get the subs installed with a new amp I will have a better idea what I have, also have an EQ to try. I know I will be short on mid bass and I have this idea of trying an 8 woofer in the front with a 1" softdome (I prefer those). I will see how the current drivers react with the new amp I put in with the subs and decide what to do with that. If they work I might just add another tweeter, but I fear they will not put out and I just don't want to tear this little car up with custom stuff, I want it all under the door panels....except the extra tweeters I guess as there is no other way. The front speakers are low by my leg and the stage just does not work. I have a frame built up for the subs but can't seem to find time to finish it....soon.

I think it is the crutchfield site you can put your car into and it tells you all the stock sizes.

Screw with people, get a pyramid dust cap for it.

For my .02 if you are not that worried about perfect SQ, then a good brand of 6.5 comps like you said should work fine. Just pick a couple and run them by the guys here. Power handling would be a big issue to you and keep the power going to them clean. A little EQ for them should get you what you want if they don't sound just right. If you really want them to get loud then you might have to go further, run more drivers to better handle the power but the SQ can suffer with multiple drivers. That is another reason I like to run rear fill: you can turn them down to listen to music but it can sound fuller in the car to have them on playing stuff louder (set them up with a fader)...and you don't have to push the one set so hard. Plus if you play it in the yard or whatever, multiple drivers sound a lot better outside the car. Unless it is in your HU a G190 alpine or audiocontrol 3.1/4.1/etc works nice for that stuff. Fader, a little EQ, and sub level are all at hand and simple to use. You might run up on the issue I have though, that is lack of midbass to even get close to what the subs are doing. How your mids are mounted has a lot to do with it and you might have to play with the setup there....yet another reason I run rear fill, for a little more midbass. Others here might have better answers, but this is what I have done for a more flexible system I can tune at least into the ballpark while I figure out the details.

Sounds like a tuning problem to me. Not to many ways to tune IB subs. If you try aperiodic you lose the bottom and that is the #1 reason I run IB; to get the 30Hz, or 20 even. I want them to fly. Electronics might get rid of it, but then you end up at a crossover point you don't want so that is no good and sometimes you can't cross it out. Tuning ends up being...."find the right sub" and then you are golden.

Not at all, but only have only one good set of 6x9 here and I don't want to rip the tweeter out of them so I thought why not 8s. Prefer to have comps in front here, but I would guess that would work much better than 5x7 I have now. Might use 6x9 in rear however, after other things are figured out.

Well, good thing you didn't say cars in US only... http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/arti...19002/1530/FREE As usual we are not fit for lots of the cool car stuff in the world.

Enclosure? Mine suck installed in doors with just some hole plugging and stock layer of foam on the door, but I'm just not going to attempt to make an enclosure in there if even possible. Next on list is dampening if I don't have some 8s/mid/tweets to try by then. 6x9s seem to make midbass in doors, but yeah I know most here hate them.

I read a whole deal the other day about how amps that run lower ohm loads are less efficient, but it didn't show any specific brand examples. It was more theory comparing 1-2 ohm amps to 4ohms amps (at their minimum load). I'm no electronics pro so...? It seemed pretty serious. Naturally if you run the same amp at 2 it will draw more power than running it at 4, if it can do both.

Is 4ga enough for the JL alone? Maybe he could run the JL on its own 4ga to the front for more voltage with no isolator...assuming the sub amp will take more power than the JL right? Then run the other 4ga or a new larger cable/whatever to the rear battery and sub amp with the isolator and all. (Or run a 3rd 4ga so you had 1 to the JL and 2 for the subs/battery?) If you are running low on voltage with the car on I don't think it will matter what you do, you just need more alternator to keep up. More batteries will run it longer, but if you keep it hammering you will still run out of power when you use up the batteries if you don't take breaks for it to charge back up. Its like a battery is worth X number songs then it dies if your alternator is not up to the load; you just get more songs with more batteries. So, if you only crank it for say three songs at a time and it dies after 2-2.5 songs then another battery will fix you fine. If you play more than 4 songs get the alternator. What does the voltage do on the front battery? If it drops then HU voltage drops too, but you know the isolator is not restricting power I guess. I would not think the amp reads its voltage requirements off the trigger anyway but don't know. Then alternator sounds like the answer. Yeah there could be something wrong with the amp. I've had amps that shut off on all different kinds of voltages but that one sounds pretty high. Another thing is many DVOM do not react that fast if you are using one, so it is possible your voltage is dropping more than it shows for an instant even though you have the yellow top. Also one battery could be weak and that would hurt performance. When the batteries get low the quick drops will be greater as well, they don't have any reserve then. Just trying to help with some ideas.

I looked up some pics, It looks like a W0 the cone/cap is the same except it has a big magnet on it like the W3. Of course those might not be pics of 10s even though they look the same as the ones under 10 listings. The upper right one in this pic is very close: http://www.radiomancaraudio.com/jl-audio.html but the cap in pic might be larger diameter. It certainly has a larger motor structure than the W0 in that pic, by far. Want to make a 12" tube with a 4" port and one 10 or 12, maybe ~2cf for a 10 or whatever gets down at least to 40Hz good. If I go too low I'll get no db out of only one driver.

Right, paper cone and a mostly black sticker on the motor. Has a SS looking screen in the pole vent, black wrap on the magnets. I might be able to get it cheap and use it someplace. I'm really not familiar with them and don't know what they can put out. I was wanting to build a sonotube ported some day for fun. I should go look at it again more closely.

I keep waiting to see if they built that Vette with the blower, though I'm not a huge vette fan. If I spent that kind of cash on cars the GT-R would be interesting and I just read about a new BMW twin turbo DI diesel that hauls beans. Sorry fact is I'd rather buy other things, mostly things that don't depreciate near as fast. I think I have more fun on my lifted golfcart than I did in my awd turbo car, and that car was fun...but thats just me. An STi would be cool, but I'd rather have a used one than new. New Evo looks interesting also yet my last mitsu had some issues. For real use I might look at that turbo ute mazda makes, the CX-7. Fact is I'd rather have a diesel in nearly anything I would buy and nobody really has them yet. Mustangs are cool too but I really don't have a use for one right now.

Lots of motors here for boats with carbs....but I guess if you don't live around big water they would not be there. If so they can help you out, just read the plugs/look at piston....or if you really want get an EGT and it will tell you how to jet. You want normal mix for driving and little rich for max power.