sqguy

And here I thought turbos were the most efficient forced induction.

Both worked? What is in common to both, power line? HU? Do you have one RCA to a processor or multiple from HU to amps?

If you really can't find it, go to a bodyshop or bodyshop at a dealer and they will have them. On the other hand, if you have a boneyard local you can go out into or like a wrench-it-yourself deal...well that is the best way to get all those little parts like clips, fuses, trim, interior parts/covers, etc.

Some people are like that, and some are really stupid... The other day I was watching an amp on ebay, a kicker that did not work right. They have them all the time on ubid that are factory refurbs, but this broken one went about 25% higher on auction than a factory repaired and tested unit with all new accessories. Someone paid over 2 bills for this blown amp plus ship; they paid more than used working ones go for.

I've been trying this kicker 700.5, it is 420wrms @ 2ohm. My conclusion is that the high side I wanted to run at 4ohms x 4ch is too weak for me. Could bridge it and run the 8s (mid bass I want to put in), but not sure because it is hard to tell when it breaks up. The sub side is pretty good, but the 4 infinity DVC 12s could take more (& figured they would not, I was surprised). Infinity says half wattage IB so that would be 150rms, maybe they are right. So I was looking at two cheaper 15s that are 99db, higher than the Infinity at 93db. The 4 subs and the amp; that baffle weighs a ton and I don't like it at all. That was one reason I went IB because it would be lighter than a box, plus don't have room. They hit the bottom nice though, and the high side will wash out long before they do. Maybe the two 15s would put out about the same (if the amp was the same)? I can always pedal it and look for its bigger brother. I have some other 300/500/maybe larger amps I can try if the kicker comes out, but they are all class AB.

I'm looking at an alpine class D sub amp and wondered if anyone has used them. Its the smaller 301 but might maybe be large enough for me not sure. Anyway, it looks to have a parametric eq in it even...that would be nice. Anyone used them? I guess I'm wondering if one would work ok for my sort of SQ system, instead of an older class AB that takes more power. My kicker class d seems to work ok, but assume the Alpine is better quality yet.

I have not looked into it much so don't call me stupid, but I have wondered about running a 12v power supply near the engine then step the voltage up and run it back to your amps, step it back down. There is a loss factor there, but it would not be from your wiring if you use high voltage. Anyway, when you step it back down go to 14v or something instead of 12. I read about high voltage DC lines that carry MW of power then convert it solid state back to AC local, got me to thinking about it. Also I imagine you would need battery or at least capacitors where you step it back down, for whatever voltage you use 12v or higher. Interesting if it could be done, but then again I don't really need it in my car. Seems like someone would have looked into this.

I found this on a listing for XM6, is it said backwards? (LP and HP) Why would your mid LP be lower than your HP, in fact the HP for the tweeter is the same 40-400 or with a multiplier, that would mean the highs could go lower than the mid. If a mistake this would work fine, but multiple listings state it this way. "Band-Pass: 18dB/Oct 300Hz-3kHz (HP) 18dB/Oct 40Hz-400Hz (LP)"

Actually if the crossover would bandpass a mid bass from 50 up to 200 to 350 variable, that would be best. I can just use my HU front RCAs and add it on without messing with the rest. If I get the 3s in for highs I can try it on that or find another way, but know I will not be able to invest 3 bills into a HU for a while too many other irons in the fire and this one works still. Maybe HU next spring, want to put in 8s and different subs first.

So the XM6 should do it? I'd buy his but just got a couple amps and have to wait. I can't seem to find the XM6 manual in that post.

I saw a new cadence on clearance for 129, but don't know a thing about them maybe others here do. Think it was 600wrms. If you scope ebay you can pick stuff up cheap, maybe <50 depending on how big but it takes a lot of searching and getting outbid. I bought a nice older 300wrms amp at a local pawn shop that was better deal then that brand ever goes on ebay, but others are cheaper. I just found a smaller alpine sub amp I posted about for about $30, its 350wrms x1 @ 2ohms and 14.4v. Assuming it shows up and works. Here is one that didn't seem like a bad deal ebay item 270179452205, I almost bid on it but didn't really need it.

After much screwing around/testing it seems that it might be ok. The bias was high enough to heat that side, though I don't know why it would be so off with only power supply repair....but it was and now I know how to set an amp bias. It still has higher mv on one channel at rest, but could be normal. Have it set right now and it plays with no heat, well both channels heat a very little after 20min of low volume playing. So I'll put it back together and dig my spare sony 12 out of the shed, see if I can hook it to the car. Didn't cost me much at all (if it works under power) but sure was a lot of screwing around.

Right it is not that big, but my subs are IB anyway. May take out the 4 12s and see if 2 15s fit, more efficient ones, then try this alpine on those. It is mostly SQ but I like to feel it a little at times.

How will I setup this mess....I need a crossover that can spit at ~350. Total I will need roughly 40Hz LP, 50Hz-350 midbass BP, 350Hz up HP, and not sure if I will run a tweeter or not. I may use 3" alone or might run tweeter too but lets worry about that later. This alpine (dash type crossover that I like so I can fiddle with it) does 30-200 LP and HP separately, has a sub parametric and 3 band EQ, also has a fader. I could run the 2nd crossover off the highs and split the 8s and above at ~350. But then it would go through two crossovers, that might not be good for quality on the highs. Or I can go the other way and run the alpine to split the subs and 8s off the LP of new crossover (@350Hz), even though the alpine 3 band EQ would be worthless except for the bass parametric....could maybe just not use it at all then. I might have another sub amp, a newer alpine with a parametric. Not sure if I should bridge the high side of the kicker to run the 8s or just take it out and use all separate amps. I want to swap the 4 12s out too, seems like two more efficient 15s would be lighter and work as well <40Hz. All that stuff slows my car down, I didn't realize the weight and can't max the subs anyway. With the high side issues I am having more sub power is not needed. Nearly bought a kenwood excelon big 4ch, but was unsure of quality to run highs with it or if it had more than the kicker.

I like deep bass, especially with movies. Figured it would be easy way to it with whatever speakers he used assuming they were smaller to fit a dorm. Just an idea that worked well for me. I like the full range idea too maybe some day I'll make some....but most can not reach low anyway, or not low enough for me. I did miss the 8' tall size though.

Just an off the wall suggestion, but many years ago I built a bandpass box with a 4ohm DVC 10 tuned to about 40Hz before it dropped off. It was larger box than you are talking, maybe an 8 would work too. Anyway I simply hooked it in parallel to a set of nice quality bookshelf speakers off a sony home amp of about 35w/ch. I had the box under my PC desk and it was hooked up to my PC, but then I could run the radio as well as CDs/MP3s. It sounded nice and fairly loud in a small room....with little work or cost. Being 4 ohm the sub was louder to a point, and most home amps will run that low an ohm load if you only run one set of speakers. The bookshelves I had seemed to handle the bass ok or I could have put some caps on them. Later I did build an 8 but it didn't work. When I got winISD I checked it and the 8 was a IB driver with huge twin peaks...it sucked in a BP box. The 10 was good, I got lucky. I built them out of a radio shack book kind of guessing. Should get an 8 for that box come to think of it. After a while I got a surround set for the PC (for games of course) but did use the BP 10 in a car once with good results.

Instead of making a new thread thought I would dig this one up... Until I get a better HU with xovers/etc I want to add mids, need a xover that will run a pass at ~350Hz and down for 8s? Have read the Coustic will work but not sure if I need the XM3e or XM5e or 6? I don't have an amp that will sub xover that high, and want to still use the G190 I have in there to tweak things. Not the right way, but a good bandaid is all I need. The Coustic site seems to have been gutted. I have a three way but it does not go above 200Hz low pass like many of them.

I can get a good deal on it....thinking about taking the kicker out and just going back to amps. That way I can use more quality on the highs, it just po's me this kicker is not working well in the 4ch. I can run it 3ch but that kind of defeats the reason why I put it in there.

Hmmm, something else must be amiss with this high powered $100 amp. I checked all the o/p fets and none are shorted and the diodes seem to be working. I ran it again and it plays fine, but the one channel still heats even playing nothing. Checked rail voltages and they were +/-48v. Not hooked up it shows 2.6mv on one channel and 1.6 on the other, .8 on the other two I think it was. So I cranked the bias down on the high one that is heating and it would not drop under 2.4, but would go higher. Have to research more, but maybe some of the fets are bad. If I get the ambition I'll take them out and test more but that sounds too easy. Showing same ohms on output resistors also, they are .22ohmK. Can't remember if I checked the gate resistors, think I did. Strange that it actually plays music though, and both channels sound the same....gives hope I don't like to have with these kinds of projects.

Good point; class D amps. They take less power (per watts of output) compared to traditional ABs due to higher efficiency. If an amp is made to run X ohm load it should work best there. Most ratings I have read show a 4/2ohm amp being more efficient at 4ohms load but of course put out/use up more power at 2. I have not seen any tests of a 1 or 2ohm amp though, or at .5 ohm.

Why would the director swallow the money at the end of the day? Seems like money that too big get ache stomach then toss many chunks of pain over.... LOL.

Nice, but ah....where did you say that McDonalds is?

Boxes...how about the 18 in the Tahoe, that must shake a little if its got some power on it.

I'm not really sure why I decided to fix it....maybe just doing my part to keep something out of the landfill; to keep the world green!!!! Yeah that's it! lol! If it really is 500wrms it would run my subs fine if I ever needed it, just not sure I'd want it in my trunk.

Checked the outputs best I could, nothing looks bad and they all test the same. Since it worked, I'll guess the bias is off and heating them up. I read under 15mv but I'll have to find a manual or tech to get it set right. Someone could have messed around in there before me as well. This must be humorous reading for somebody....