sqguy

Sounds like a good passive radiator project.

Is this a regular box? If you run out of phase with no partition in the box wont it just be like an isobaric IB install? Seems like it would have no power handling mechanically, and no bass when to the sides of the drivers. With a partition it may work, I don't like boxes like that and have never made one so don't know. I would swap a different amp on it and see what noise it has, that may change noise if it is from the amp or block more/less of it.

I use cheap ones, many years and never had an issue with one that was not actual damage or wear. I have some normal RCA from 20 years ago that I still use. Maybe I put nicer ones on the amps if someone might actually see one, otherwise I'll spendy on something important that makes system sound better/go louder/etc. I stay away from the super cheap ones of course, the $5 ones. What I don't like is many newer ones have a huge casing on the plug, and they will not fit into some of my older amps with the RCA terminal inside the amp.

The reference 7520, think it is 2x75wrms or so. I see a lot of the larger ones on ebay from harman as refurbs, the silver w/blue center and those ugly handle looking things on the sinks. I could try it on highs if it is any good. It is put together fairly well inside.

Some great people here. Just try to ask for the right thing....like if you say you want a SQ sub but it needs to shake the next three houses on your street on occasion....they will tell you to get a SPL set up like you want. Some great info too if you search.

That GTR is expensive, but with a little work it can make huge HP and leave most cars in the dust. 750HP is easy in that car for the street. They can get around double that, pretty capable engine. Funny comparing that to say Honda's last 'supercar' with a wimpy V6.

It seemed to work fine, though it is like Dual amps in that my old 2v test HU can't run it up that hard. But I did get the sub banging around good for a while then ran regular speakers with it....worked fine. So I sold it Didn't make much but learned something and fixed a few more amps with simple problems. Well it did fill my car with gas, that is pretty good deal these days.

Ok I'm not that good at this but have a newer amp with 6 chips on the PS sink. Seems to be two transformers and 3 fets each, the output is on other side of chassis. Well the 3rd and 6th one are shorted pos to neg and blew the +12v trace. If shorted then they must be bad, the rest are near same ohms and not on/shorted at rest and all same # chips. Anyway, can I just replace them....what would cause this to happen? Would something else be shot too? They are $15 each so far I've found. Yes this is a junk explode amp, but might as well see what I can do its like new otherwise and 500wx1rms so not bad. I've been told not to substitute parts on new amps, have no idea what was done to it when it broke. Amp is worth about 100. Amp has no power, light comes on and thats it, has 12v in transformers and thats about it less than 2v in rails.

Finally got around to digging for this and find Coustic has the stuff on their site under "Classic", what ever the * that means as far as support. Anyhow, I look them up and the XM6 pdf is corrupt and will not load. All the idiots selling them on ebay just copy what it says on the little features list...and yes it is bassackwards the LP and HP are reversed. Turns out the XM5e has the bandpass too, I imagine the 6 is the same with some more features. One of those two would run mid bass fine.

Yeah, I have 4 PCs here and maybe that many more not running. Was going to look into Linux and see if it would run windows games for the next one. Have an old Mandrake loaded one I surf with. Tandy 1000 that was it. One of the first COLOR monitor PCs...lol...a TV is what it was too. I even upgraded mine with a couple DIPs....did the same thing on the PB put a bunch in the MB for memory before the days of memory cards. Those things would bend the pins so easy and went in so dang hard. Those Tandy were not cheap back then either, can buy a nice gaming system today for the same price.

The only class D I have run is this kicker on subs, and it works nice but I don't know about SQ they are behind the seat...I'd say it is good enough since IMO the quality does not have to be great for subs just good. I would think alpine is better but don't know, but should be good enough. I read they are making various class D amps for full range/etc that sound good these days, but interference can be an issue. Got my hands on some old alpines to run highs, I like them. Not sure what you guys think of them. They work good for me and only dim lights and stuff when used on subs, thus my wanting a class D for those. Have some others if they don't work...amps always change the sound of my system, seems like I always swap them out before I am happy. Anyway, new class D or any class costs money I can use elsewhere and I doubt they are better than the old quality amps (for mid/highs). But I could be wrong because I have not used a new class D and just midgrade newer ABs. Seems like one would be far better off spending on a better HU or front stage to get more quality than a new high side amp, if an old one will meet your needs. Used allows easy swapping as well...and that is how you find out what works the best. And, I'm the kind of person with lots of irons in the fire that all would like funding...so I shop for deals.

lol, time for me to build another too. Tiger has some barebones (one is SLI) on sale now that look cheap but have not shopped for a few months. My first PC I bought used was an 8088 Tandy and its here someplace. The HD would actually vibrate the machine a little! 20meg as I recall. Later got a 486DX50 (Packard Bell!) and modded that to an overdrive AMD 586-133 with the first cpu fan I ever used. I made a duct over the MB to it, worked awesome and ran bench of a P90. Otherwise on games it overheated and freaked out, that machine had top of the line VESA video, lol. The ones I run now are from '01 AMD XPs. One I put an Iwill XP333 board in with raid and DDR333, sweet new OC board at the time. Later found it would not take much faster cpu, but I OCed it for years. Now I turned it back down because the socket is actually falling apart from heat. I took the cpu out and part of it broke right off, had to mod the clip just to get the sink back on. I did read one review of a Pent D they OCed hard with a big liquid cooler and no other mods, it was impressive. I like AMD but looks like I can get a C2D board and have a lot more cpu to get in the future. Game season is coming so have to do something now. I picked up a bunch of great games cheap on ebay I need to play. Got through doom3 this fall, it played good on low settings but that is far as this machine can go...I'm thinking SLI. Actually have an 8x AGP in this 4x MB. Also have some driving games...I can dust off my momo wheel, that thing is awesome.

PE has one on sale for $12, DVM850BL Digital Multimeter I have a clark I got for $10 in a store on sale, it works ok.

Yes. I can't think of hardly anything I would buy in a vehicle to go fire road running. The best I have run was a Cherokee, other domestics were not good though the Grand Cherokee was not bad. But for a reasonable little car that can do near anything (obviously on-road), they can't be beat in the snow belt. I'll race any fwd/rwd sports car in the snow...lol, and trash them using every other gear. Like I said, for the price.

Yes the rally cars can do it all. Considering their price points they are far from exotic, but to drive daily they are awesome toys and so capable. And there are plenty of mods available for them.

I would fuse at the battery and that is it. That should keep the car from catching on fire if it shorts, maybe. Should wire carefully with cable that big, capable of carrying that much current. Look for sharp areas, pinches, bare wire, tie it up; the usual stuff and it should be good.

Remember to count your ohms as one channel. I have a little bazooka mono like that with two + and two - terminals that are joined inside. It is made to run at 2 ohms; to run with two 4 ohm subs wired to the 4 terminals. Or you could put a connector on both + and both - sub wires and use one + and one - terminal, same thing; the amp sees 2ohm load both ways. The two channels are paralleled inside. Oops I mean two sets of terminals since there is only one channel! They are laid out like this also: ++-- which would be strange on a 2ch amp.

There are kicker refurbs on ubid all the time, not the best amps but they seem to work. They seem to go cheaper than ebay. Otherwise myself I would hunt for used, I have only had one bad amp and bought quite a few. They took it back and it cost me $7 in shipping.

Used>new? I agree mostly. The only thing I'm finding I want to try new(er) is a class D on subs to better manage power plus more features. So I'll see how this newer Alpine works, maybe it will have reasonable SQ enough for a sub. Can get by with less quality on subs anyway. For the high side though, there are so many good older amps out there I find little reason to run new. All the cheaper (<$150 new except my kicker 700.5 that I'm not that impressed with far as SQ) newer amps I have tried just don't seem to have the sonic quality I am used to, plus they go into distortion slow and I really hate that. I can buy 3-8 used amps for what the same quality is new.

Lol, I have an Audiobahn A8000T right here I am going to drop. Rated at 800rms x1 @2ohm. It does not look bad, has that variable speed fan, and seems to put out nice....but don't think they are anything like a Zed/PPI or such. I don't need an amp this big. I will send it to you for $100, in 48 states.

Yeah, years ago I had a 5.0 LX mustang. Motor of gold but the car left a little to be desired. It was fun but finally got tired of hardly ever driving it. I hauled lots of stuff in my truck then plus it sat all winter. I sold it and happened on a DSM AWD turbo cheap. The difference was unreal, it was pretty close to as fast at the time. It had IRS in back and I think KYB struts or the like, ride and handling was worlds better it didn't even compare....and that was just a Mitsu. Of course in the winter I was a rally racer, way too much fun with that AWD. It was easy to pull giant powerslides up to 60mph, the turbo didn't hit as hard after that in fourth and that was pushing enough for me. People that never drove AWD in the winter don't have a clue what they are missing. I could holeshot anyone in the snow, can't count the times I was doing 70 on the expressway and it twitched so I slowed and there were 4 cars in the ditch. Unfortunately we can't make cars like that in the US.

A previous post seemed to compare the GT500 Mustang and the Corvette, I just don't think they compare. Even if they are close in performance they are an apple and an orange if Ford vs GM. GM has done some great things with the Corvette and Cadillac, problem is they dug such a huge hole....that is a hard one to get out of for all the US makers. I'd still buy US if I could. They are projecting 8% unemployment for MI in 2008 instead of the 7.7% we have now, or 6-7% we have had since 2001. Today they said Detroit just became the #1 Worst City to Live In....MI is getting a lot of firsts lately and none of them are good. I am disappointed in the SRT4, it does not seem to be that fast. A normal awd WRX dusted one in the 1/4 with 225HP over srt's 285....and was supposed to be 300 before it came out.

LOL, did you see what happened to Toyota quality? BTW, Ford no longer makes the GT (GT40). Sure the Vette is a great car, and a Mustang is no Vette even with a big blower on it...try riding in the back seat of a Vette or getting a cheap V6 model. They say that Cadillac V is getting pretty close, though I don't like that look they have. I never have like slab sided cars, the 80s were some to the worst in looks and performance.

Look a the pic, "I'm hiding in my empty dodecahedron with my crack bong, and I need you to pay for some expensive dope to fill my bong!" You will get a goofy sub box with a pile of un-needed small sub drivers (where are they?) and no amps, and if you are not sitting just the right distance from it, it will not even make any bass! Ain't that great? On top of that it has a big rolloff on the bottom you can see in the video of some dork telling you all kinds of stuff that means next to nothing. But it will look cool for sure if you smoke the right stuff in your pipe! Never mind that you could put a real, expensive, respected top of the line huge HT sub in each corner of the room for this price that would blow you out of the room, this one is cooler if you inhale enough! Next week I'll introduce the $5,000 Rubiks Cube subwoofer with 250 4" sub drivers that makes an amazing 80db of serious sound pressure once you hook 10 tripole hexagonal supercharged bionic infrasonic amplifiers to it...(not in included).

I read a few pages of it, now I think most all of them are 13yr olds. The one that started it gets back into it later and puts intercoolers on his design. What a tard, even if it was a joke it didn't last that long. He also has a strange fixation with urinating on ropes. The guy should look up Sterling Engines if he wants to do that properly. B) AMC built some that ran way back in the 70s. http://www.stirlingengine.com/faq/one?scop...ic&faq_id=1