sqguy

I'm SQ on a budget, but it seems that the issue is always that with a good sounding system when you push for big volume the sound changes. Even if you fix that then another variation comes up. I can never keep soft to loud the same, or what I think is the same, always have to dial the subs up/down or tweak something. And I stay away from ear-splitting loud.

Dynamic range, yes that sure can show the weakness in your system when you plug that kind of music in.

Electricity does not care if it is upside down, unless the amp was banging around on top of a sub box or something.

Right, because there are so many easy paths for the current to take. There is only one path with a wire. In the end you may be right, but you would have to make enough power under the hood to justify it, so what maybe 3 alternators or something? Big power is going to be in batteries next to the amps. Even three of the 1200w amps this guy has is not going to be hardly measurable in ground resistance with the proper connections to the body. The difference in steel and copper is -8th power or -7th power ohms per meter. I can't agree with you, but hey I might be wrong too and there could be some wacky steel car out there that makes it possible.

If a steel unibody is such a poor conductor then why does everyone use it, better run more copper cable back to the battery right? Do you know how many welds it takes to hold together a 3,000 unibody car for the use it might see in its life? I have drilled many of them out, they are good welds or the lawyers would be even richer today. There are enough welds to not fail until the panel has been completely deformed.

Never heard of that. I used to always store my summer car with all that stuff in it for the winter, and not heated. Cars don't rust under 32F as long as there is not salt on them. You do need to make sure the car is dry inside before you store it, and will not get water in it. Otherwise you will find a rain forest inside the car. I never have beat on the stereo before the car got warmed up though.

I have 4 12" infinity in my back seat IB and it gives plenty of vibrations....it is too much for SQ daily driving. At least with the kicker 700.5 if I turn the subs near clipping (420wrms) I can hardly hear the high side and the car shakes. But it ends up sounding like * on most music because all I hear is the subs and can never hammer them listening to music. The amp sub gain is around 1/3 and if I turn up the crossover gain it still washes everything out. I never installed the bass remote. So I am thinking of two 15s that are more efficient, they would fit nicely, and have a new-ish 350rms class D to try. Maybe it will not work, but that is half the fun isn't it.....(going to change up the high side too of course) IB is a different game and may or may not be for you. It does hit 30Hz nice though. Here is pics of when I put it in, have plenty of trunk room. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...st&p=272509

I have 4 12s for SQ but no box....then again I want to change it now but not because it does not work well; it's just too dang heavy for my little car...and I can't beat it hard enough.

Come on you guys, steel conducts just fine and when you have a couple thousand pounds of it....it can conduct a lot of power, way more than your wire. But that is for unibody cars that are all welded together really, a truck is constructed differently. The cab and box sit on the frame and the fenders are bolted to the cab and front saddle. The saddle, cab, box all sit on rubber isolators, the ones you replace with taller units to bodylift a truck. The battery should have a ground to the fender that is bolted to the cab, a little stock one. But it is different than a car and the frame is IMO a good way to go. Only issue is your connection is out in the weather, I might seal it with something living in snow/rain/high humidity here.

If you run more battery instead of alternator you will get 12v for longer (assuming you crank it and use more power than your alternator can make), so lets say after one song it dies back under 12v and you lose volume; with two batteries it will run 2 songs before it dies out....depending on what battery you get/etc. It will have more capacity to hit bass notes in general. With more alternator you will be closer to 14v but on hits the alternator can't react real fast anyway so thats why you still need more than one battery....depending on how much power you draw and what battery of course. But the alternator will tend to keep it 12-14v range (indefinitely) not 12 and then below when you completely outrun your alternator and the batteries go down. Some systems I worked on back in the old says we ran three batteries, the largest alternator was 60-90a and would not run all those AB amps like LP 5002s/etc. They would hammer for a few songs and then you had to give them a break. This is all for music use. For music you don't often keep it hammered for that long anyway so you just add enough batteries to go long enough for you. Your alternator will charge both fine, but will take longer than one if you run them way down. Except for the big bass hits you will run on the alternator at 13.5v or so. Once you draw too much and it can't keep up you drop to the ~12.5v of the charged battery, but then have both alt and battery for power. If you go way over the alternator you will be more and more on the battery alone and eventually its voltage will drop lower and lower....more batteries just make that part take longer. That might be an easier way to think about it. At 10-11v your amp might shut off and the car might not start.

Pipe bender? I have welded a lot and never saw a ground cable that was stiffer than say a piece of used rope the same size. If it didn't bend it would be wrapped around the head of the guy at the welding supply that sold it...because you could not use the welder very well.

Really nice install, I like it. If the box is tuned good it will sound fine for most. I will try anything in my daily drivers, just don't get a P5 explod they sound nasty in sealed recommended but do get loud.

Welcome. I don't have any RF right now and they are local here. The old Punch 75 and 150, they were great amps. Do have a set of series 1 10s around here someplace. Also have some drivers used in home speakers, a friend of mine stumbled onto a garage sale once and bought a pile of coax and comp drivers from someone that worked there.

The alternators react to the draw, they are not instant. That is why if you turn on a high draw (but less than alt max) in the car the lights will dim for a moment until the alternator gets it together and puts out current to get voltage back up. You can see it on a volt gauge, like in my truck with a 190a when I hit the snowplow lift it drops then goes back to normal. It has a standard starter solenoid on it to run plow's hydraulic pump...and it has two 1K cca batteries. So it drops to ~12.5v on the batteries until the alt gets going, depending on how big or abrupt the draw is/etc. Of course that is all an amp does is put sudden high draws on.

Holy Crap is right, three??? Toss some dilithium crystals in there and you could power your whole car with it. So just how many alternators/batteries would one need to power this at full output? That thing is just one huge looking m*.

With decent cables and decent amps, this isn't an issue unless the preouts are REALLY weak. I agree, these days line noise is hardly ever an issue like it used to be. I still have never run over 2v HU in my car and have had no problems, and a 2v HU often is much less rms mv than 2. I have noticed that some amps, like explode and dual I have tested, don't seem to go low enough (or high actually) in the amp gain for 2v HU. You end up with the gain way up.

They are nice if your HU is not that clean at higher volumes or stresses, so you can run more line voltage and keep sound clean. I like external processors that dash mount so I can adjust any time.

Will that power two plasma injected ion cannons or just one?

I figure the stock wire is for the car, and I don't want the car using the big stereo wire I put in. I never would take them out unless I had to for some other reason.

You have to remember who is going to buy that car....not you I imagine, and if you did you would put what you want in there.

That should be great when you get done, I'm just saying I sold a 4004 audiobahn for about $50 the other day. You could run the front and bridge the rear for a cheap single 12 you should be able to dig up for 30-50 bucks box and all, and you would have tunes. Lol, my HU came out of a car I bought. Had it for a few years and sold it, kept the HU and ended up putting it in here. I really need to get a good one some day. It sounds nice but no processing in it.

If you have a local welding supply, call them also.

You don't have to fuse stuff, but you should fuse any line off a battery no matter where it goes in case that wire shorts. Then you would have a fuse at the front battery +, your line back to a fuse at the rear battery +, a fuse from rear + and line to your amps. You might forgo the one to the amps if they are close to the battery and have their own, and there is no chance of that wire shorting on something like the one that runs the length of the car could. If that big wire does short on ground, it will not be pretty.

You are so patient. I would buy the HU, then take a couple hundred and get the rest used so it worked. Then replace it all as I could and sell the used back off if I didn't need a spare.

Lol, 109.5 pounds!! Now that is a ****ing battery!