sqguy

I've used an alpine G190 that worked well for that, it has a parametric for the bass. Audiocontrol has some EQs more for subs, like the EQL and EQS, maybe more I'm not real familiar with all the stuff they have made. Have to say I will be using the alpine again results were better than my current 16 band, the parametric can dial right in and flatten the sub out or make it respond in the way you want. The alpine is a dash mount so I can use it on the fly. Also some amps have a bass parametric on them you could consider swapping to one. A bass boost is similar, but are typically preset at 40Hz or so, they don't help you if your issue is not at 40Hz and you can't adjust the width like a parametric. I would also change the install or enclosure first, if possible.

Older RF drivers used it a lot. It is a thick dark oil like fluid right on the voicecoil filling the gap. They said it cooled the VC for more power handing. I've seen a lot of tweeters with it in there. It really looks like dirt will collect on it but it seemed to not be a problem. Is it better....I can't say.

I would just shop on epay, you can look at sold items to check prices...then yes check out craigslist too. Actually the Kenwood I had was a 9152 and is 950rms@2ohm, they are same amp but 9102 has one less transistor and 850rms. Of course there are a pile of amp brands out there, I just used one of the above and had no problem with it. I'm sure there are other brands you can get, this just a suggestion I have seen in the $100 range. They are only 175 to your door new on there (a new 9104D), people trying to get much over 100 used are not selling them. Are they real watts? Never checked it, went loud enough for the setup I had at the time but they must be more real than a lot of no-name amps. He can get better when he has more cash. Also got one for a friend of mine that is still working well. I still have two of the strike I might use, they are 1kw@1ohm and can be strapped. The walmart LA amps were cheap, the strike was a dealer sold amp and is much different/better inside.

Well, at least you are getting service on them some don't even do service anymore (assuming you have factory/dealer working on them). Cheap amps tend to break more, often for physical reasons but not always. Don't know what amp you have but a lot of them are the same inside, if you look on ampguts it lists some that use the same board in large class d.

I've sold nice used ~1kw class d for that, like kenwood 9102/3 and lightning audio strike 1kw. I never hammered them but they worked well if you are looking for cheap without going no-name. Some of the strikes don't like vibration but they had good components in them.

28,000+ posts on an audio site and you can't figure it out? You seem to be knowledgeable about a lot of things, why would you make a retarded comment like that? Of course I would prefer someone who did not know how a parametric worked to understand it, but hey if they don't they can say so. You guys can't even answer my question if you set parametrics all by ear; its like asking the democratic congress when they are going to stop that war they said they would, and lower gas prices they said they would, etc.

Ouch, this is getting to be a sad amp story. Well good thing they are working on it, hope they figure it out. Nothing can be out of whack when you strap...well guess that is obvious here isn't it. I have a couple amps here with broken RCA, many of them are really cheap plastic things. I wont even use an RCA cable if it goes on hard.

Did you ever get anywhere with this?

I didn't say flat, I said 'flatten out' meaning get rid of peaks and valleys in the response. Lol, you guys must be really bored. So can you guys set parametrics by ear or do you just troll these forums to cut on people instead of helping OPs?

You guys can flatten out a system by ear using parametric EQs? Man you are good, how long does it take you to set a few of them? I only have one for bass and it was hard enough, fun but took a lot of drive days before I was happy with it or rather happy as I'll get for the state its at right now. Don't drive that car much right now but should do the doors and get it more up to snuff. I use my ears too but it can be difficult to find a peak/valley in a system and set a parametric to take it out by ear, or is for me. I can eventually but I would not waste the time on someone else its not worth it. I'd have to drive their car for a couple weeks until I was happy with it. Normal EQ is much easier.

To me it looks like two class D in one case. It all comes down to heat dissipation, but factors affect that like efficiency and what the fets are rated for. You can look up the fets and see. What are people saying then, it will not handle 200A draw for a long period of time? Do they blow up then or overheat? I'm not into the huge amps but I always figure if you could run it below rated load then it was a good amp and you were cheating....don't bag on an amp when you are already cheating....but I know you guys are looking for much as you can find. It is hard to tell by looks, better to see how they work in action if you are trying to rate an amp. Talk to people and search forums for results because opinion means little. I mean look at a linear power amp, hardly anything in there and all by hand...yet they work great 20+ years later so looks only tell you so much. Just my .01.

Q is hard to hear, it is the width of frequency you are manipulating. One way it will only boost/cut the frequency you have it set at, the other way it will affect a wide band of frequency on each side of it. So you could put it at say 40Hz and with wide Q boost/cut everything from 10 to 80Hz, or change Q and it would only work on 35 to 45Hz...as an example as it depends how wide/narrow it will go. Is hard to do by ear, if you can figure out or RTA where your hole/peak in response is you can tune it right to that spot. I guess a good way to hear it is put parametric gain way up and set frequency right above your subs. Then change the Q and you can hear it boost down into your subs one way and stay above them when narrow band. Note it also is doing that above your set point not just below like you hear in this example...or set it to 20hz and the wider you go the higher it will affect. My midbass is weak it took a while and test tones to get it tuned in by ear to flatten them out until I fix that. I don't have your HU, mine is in a crossover. If you have multiple parametric like many HU I'd say try to not use it until you can RTA or test db with tones at least, it could be very difficult to do by ear depending on how much response is off.

I looked at some concrete forms and you would have to wack them pretty hard to dent, I'd say that would be trunk abuse...lol, or sub box abuse. I came up with that mostly from trying to fit a sub in my boat, but now I don't run it anyway. Just some resin would moisture-proof it nicely. The light weight would be key in a smaller boat.

I saw a nice one someplace that had twin external ports. They came out one end, did a 90, (the baffle was like three circles instead of one, one big and two small) went through the baffle and down each side to end in other baffle. They acted like legs so they were on each side on floor with it laying down. Next time I have to use a box I really want to try one for the weight savings and mounting options. Seems like you could soak the tube with resin, even a little glass if you wanted to. I had a cheap 8" powered I ran on stock systems in rentals for a while, got my moneys worth out of that thing for sure.

It would look cool between the amps. Wow that is ancient, it has terminals for the probes. It may still work for what you are doing but I am not sure as it is different than common ones I have used. I think you don't need the horizontal but I don't see a way to shut it off or know if it will work just not using it. Or it would be harder to read that way but I never tried it. If you had a probe on it you could try it anyway.