helotaxi

You can't simply lump all plywoods together. Void free baltic birch is great stuff. Pine underlayment sucks. The price can be informative but isn't the final word in suitability. Oak ply will be heavy and fairly dense but regular oak ply isn't void free. Event the $60+ a sheet stuff isn't void free.

How would you best characterize the IXL series of subs? Made to be accurate? Made to get loud? Somewhere in the middle? Reason that I'm asking is I'm looking for a sub for a small sealed box to integrate with a system built with musical accuracy in mind.

Low voltage is not the same as NO voltage. The damage caused by low voltage conditions is excessive current draw. With the open circuit from the blown fuse there is no current draw and damage is impossible.

Denim- What's the typical shipping time for an order? I know the final delivery time is up to UPS or FedEx or whoever but how quick do you usually process?

You realize that a PR needs to be mounted on a vertical baffle to work right.

The difference between the current pulled by an amp doing 1k @ 4 and 1k @ 1 is not usually going to be significant assuming that both are of the same topology and well designed and built.

Depends on whether you're talking about a bass EQ or subwoofer level control on the HU. If the former, don't mess with it. If the latter, set your gain with it maxed out.

Not true. Bandpass can be much more efficient, actually. If you're looking for a sub for music, ported is easier to integrate with the rest of the system. If all you care about is output and really don't care how it sounds, but you're limited on power, bandpass can work quite well. As Sean mentioned above though, if you're short on know-how, bandpass isn't for you.

The Dayton's are on sale unitl tomorrow with free shipping. I picked up a pair just because of the sale. Beefy little drivers.

As mentioned several times above, at this point you've addressed the power supply issue, so your problem lies in the power delivery. Your wiring must be up to snuff, otherwise any other upgrades you do are going to be wasted.

For daily, the difference isn't going to be that great. I'd go with whatever i could get cheaper.

The difference between one an multiple batteries is not strain on the alt for a given amount of current from the reserve, it's merely the amount that the voltage will drop as that reserve current is being tapped. Think of the alt and battery in terms of an air supply system for pneumatic tools. You can't really run an impact wrench on just a compressor or a compressor with a small tank. Add a large tank, and the compressor motor itself isn't that important any more as long as on average the air that you remove from the tank can be replaced. The larger the tank, the better the tank hold pressure under drain. Just like the compressor in an air system, your alt doesn't handle transient load. The reserve does. It's really only when the sustained draw from the system becomes high, that the NEED to upgrade the alt/compressor exists.

Close enough to rated power that it really isn't that important and as much as pretty much any amplifier with a similar price tag.

Problem that you'll run into is that the IXLs want a tiny box which means a long port for an adequate port area. If you have limited space to begin with this is a LIMFAC. The port takes a lot or your space up.

The output (SPL) plots in WinISD mean exactly dick. The BLs have the potential to be louder, regardless of what the plot tells you. The T/S parameters that you see published pretty much go out the window as soon as you start talking high power applications.

Cancellation is pretty much always frequency specific.

In a ported box, the bigger box WILL create or exaggerate a response peak compared to a smaller box with the same tuning freq. For SQ with a ported setup, you can't say that smaller or larger is better. There is only going to be a very small range of volumes and tunings that will have a balanced sound. Any deviation from that will introduce response anomalies, that detract from the accuracy of system.

The Dayton Reference 8s are on sale at Parts Express right now for $80 each with free shipping. A pair would present the amp with a 2 ohm load and its power at 2 ohms should be about right for the pair.

Only difference in pay is in the housing allowance. The difference for an E-1 is minimal and will depend on where she's stationed. Only reason she'll even get a housing allowance rather than having to live in the barracks is becasue she has dependents.

I'm still trying to figure out how having the same board makes them the same amp...

What impedance does the amp do 1kw into?

It's "piqued." Sorry spelling an grammar are things that really annoy me. As far as an update on the status of my setup, I'm considering taking a week off work to get it finished the first week of Dec. We'll see if I can get that approved by the boss (the one at work, not the one at home).

They're "only" 70 x 2 but, yeah, neat little amps. I'm kinda considering one for the bike.

Your LIMFAC on making a car amp is going to be the power supply.

My personal favorite misconceptions are that power ratings have anything to do with driver quality and that SPL is the only measure of a quality "system." Think "that sub is so over-rated, you can get way louder for less money" You all know exactly what I'm talking about.